msane99

Ok so I have an 1980 Pickup 4wd 20R and it keeps pushing oil out seals, and gaskets.


Bought it about a year ago, someone put a weber 32/36 on it but made no provisions for PCV. engine was covered in oil. I purchase the pcv kit that attaches to intake and plumbed it out. fixed problem till we started driving the truck on the interstate. at constant high rpm's oil was pushing out timing cover (top where hidden bolt is) and out of breather hose on front of valve cover connected to air cleaner.


Compression on all 4 cylinder is 135's TSRM says 128-156.


Previous owner cracked Timing chain cover not knowing about the 12mm bolt in puddle inside head. oil eventually started pouring from this crack.


I replaced cover, chain, water pump, oil pump this week (all Japanese OEM parts OSK, Aisin, NPW, Toyota seals) and it runs great but oil is seeping from every orifice on the truck. I used a cork gasket on pan, Because its what they did in 1980 (they had not started using FIPK yet). The truck has literally pushed the cork gasket out of the engine almost all the way around it. TSRM calls for 35-69 inch pounds for the oil pan bolts. and that is what I did.


PCV is new and working no vacuum leaks. I only have the 4 vacuum lines, which are 2 to the distributor, one to brake booster and lastly one to crank vent.


Head is good, head and head gasket was replaced this year. the engine has behaved the same way with 2 different heads, so I don't think its a head issue. no smoke, no fouled plugs, factory gauge shows 3 @ startup 2.5 cruising , and 1.5 @ hot idle.


Nothing odd about the way it runs except this blow by like issue. Do I need more vacuum pulling from PCV? Valve cover baffle isn't clogged, I'm stumped. Any thoughts? Thank you! M

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

You need full manifold vacuum in the crankcase. I would suggest moving your PCV port the base of the carb, where it is on darn near even carb'ed engine I've seen.

Even high end race cars have dedicated vacuum pumps for the crankcase to help the rings and valves hold oil.

msane99

So move it off old egr spot and put it on outside of intake near vacuum advance and brake booster?


I have no ports at base of weber(except vacuum advance), I have trans-adapt plate at base of carb, and it has vacuum provision, but it does not meet 80 20r intake (it hangs off the back).


I have a big port blocked off center of intake where several vacuum lines congregated, should I go there? Or move brake booster to inside where pcv currently is and stick pcv in its hole?

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

Technically PCV and brake booster should not be right next to each other because PCV is a big vacuum leak & Brakes need high vacuum to work. So if you hook them together PCV will work but your brakes not so much. Normally they are separated by a few inches so they don't really share the same "signal".

Could that transdapt plate be creating a vacuum leak, a big one???

So I would un plug that blocked port and put your brakes into that. look to see if there is a nearby spot for the PCV.

msane99

trans adapt seals. Hard to explain but I still had clean mating surface all the way round carb/intake, and that port is just a dead eye hanging off back. I can see both sides of it. outside of engine. I'll take picts when I get back from Beach. Actually I'll take some pictures when I'm leaving and post them up when I get down there. We are heading out in an hour or so. Michael

msane99

so I pulled the head, replaced valve seals, drilled air tubes out of exhaust ports, tapped and capped them. replaced back cover with LCE block off cover. now blowing no more gaskets. Don't know what one thing worked but combination did something.

Hawk_man24

Good to know you finally got it fixed! You are a better mechanic than I am. I know that over filling can bust some gaskets, but I would have never thought of that without help like you just got.