sokoji

iTrader: (1)

So I started this thread so that I could document the progress of my build, so others may benefit, and so that I can get some feedback from other members that have much more experience than I. To start off, this is my second Toyota truck. I should have never sold my first one but that's all in the past now. So being I always liked the look of the first gens, I picked up a 81 SR5 Long bed, delivered to my house, for $720 total.





So when I bought the truck it was not running, the PO said the starter wouldn't work and it needed a new clutch badly. I thought it would be easy to get it back on the road, so I replaced the clutch with the 1200lb Marlin Crawler clutch, junkyard starter, and a resurfaced flywheel ( I replaced the rear main seal while I was back there). Replaced the radiator hoses since they were bulging and pored some water in the radiator and it all drained out the back of the head. Then I took off the coolant crossover thing on the back of the head and it was cracked in half, which I didn't even think was possible. So I replaced it with one out of the junkyard, that was a pain the in butt. After that it was ready to go, fired it up after some coaxing with starter fluid and drove it around the block. I let it warm up to normal operating temp, everything seemed to be fine then it began to leak water out around the cap. I figured it was no big deal just needed a new cap so I let it cool down took it off and there was an oil film on top of my water. So I checked the plugs and they all looked good. Did a compression test the first three cylinders were close to 180, the last one was 90.

So the question is with the low pressure in #4 and oil in my water can I get away with just changing the head gasket, which I'm assuming it is, or am I looking at a rebuild since the low pressure in #4 or could the head gasket be causing this? Also when I drained the oil after I got it there was no evidence of water at all in it. Any help would be appreciated.

85TurboRunner

Sounds like just a head gasket. That lost compression in #4 is going into your radiator through the water passages in the engine, thats why the water is coming out of the cap.

But when you do dig into it to replace the gasket make sure to get the head decked and checked out for cracks and such.

phildelfino

Smokin deal on that Toyota. Got the cheap fixes going to. Nice to see you reviving that 1st Gen. Good luck on the head gasket. Mine's an 88 V6, so I'll just be watching.

82odyota

throw the gasket in and u should be good to roll imo

sokoji

iTrader: (1)

Okay now that I got back from Germany, I have some time to work on the truck. So today I tore it down to the block and took some pics.





It appears that about half the coolant passages were blocked which cant be good. Here is some pics of the cylinders.



[IMG]http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c352/moocowsmoo99
/DSCN1068.jpg[/IMG]

So it appears that none of the cylinders have any of the factory cross hatching on them. Am I going to run into problems since its gone?

Picked up some wheels and tires from the junkyard for $100 too.

sokoji

iTrader: (1)

So I finished putting the head gasket in and put the engine all back together, but now when I try to start the truck it sounds like the starter is just free spinning. So I checked the compression and I have zero on the first two cylinders, I didn't even check the other two because I was to . So I searched around the forums and saw some threads pointing to the timing, so I checked it. Evidently I messed up the timing when I set it up the first time, the camshaft was about 10 links off. After fixing the timing I thought it might be good and tried starting it again and still the same problem, I don't know what it could be. Everything is spinning like it should. Only thing I can think of is that I bent all my valves. Any suggestions would be highly helpful and appreciated.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

you can download a factory service manual at this link: http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

slacker

iTrader: (1)

when you pulled the head off , or before you put it back on ... did you back off the valve adjusting screws ?


.

sokoji

iTrader: (1)

So I ended up pulling the head back off and looked at the valves; yeap I bent them bad. I ended up getting a head off a 84 celica out of the junkyard for pretty cheap. It looked good so I got another head gasket and put it on. Now I get about 175 psi on all cylinders, and the truck will start and run now. But now when I run the truck I get white foam on the inside of my oil cap. Maybe I should just break down and put a sbc 350 in.

Robs Toynado

That would be well worth it. Youll never go back! Putting a 350 in her is a very good idea. Any questions just ask. Very nice deal!!

sokoji

iTrader: (1)

Hey rob how is yours done? You use a engine to transmission adapter or a transfer case adapter?

Yeah I actually was going to do an engine swap down the road, just wasn't hoping that it would be this soon. But I guess I'll have a new home for the 350/th350 that has been sitting in my dads garage for 2 years.

Robs Toynado

I used the transmission to transfer case adapter. I have two of them and each one is a different lenth.

sokoji

iTrader: (1)

So in the interest of not giving up on the 22r just yet, I went back to double check my work. So I redid the timing chain gasket to make sure it was 100% good. Second I rechecked the torque on the head bolts and the back two were off at least a full turn loose, which I don't understand because I know for sure I torqued them down in the correct sequence in the FSM and to what my torque wrench was telling me was the same torque. So far the results are encouraging, as there is little to no white foam under the cap after I let it run.

So next up on the build is the installation of a Weber 32/36 with a water choke that I just picked up.

83

Nice. Good to hear things are working! I'm getting closer to going Weber all the time...

sokoji

iTrader: (1)

Okay its been awhile since I posted any progress, so after fighting with my Weber ( needed a full rebuild) I still couldn't get it to run right after the rebuild. So I have move on to other things. I ended up going to the junkyard to look for seats because the original 1st gen seats weren't cutting it any more. I ended up getting some Hyundai accent seats, mostly because they were in really good shape, $50 for the pair, and easily adaptable.


Since I often have to go to the dump I constructed a wooden cage on the bed so that I could haul more stuff so I wouldn't have to pay as much, since they charge a base $10 every time you go in even if you have one bag of trash. I like it since I can take it off easily and I just have to throw a tarp over it and I can haul tons of stuff. Cost nothing except the time to make it as it was made with just junk I'm tearing out of the basement.


I ended up putting the stock Aisin carb back on since I couldn't get the Weber to work worth a darn, probably wrong jet sizes, but the Aisin isn't working much better. If anyone could lend some helpful advice that would be great, I have been searching but can't seem to find anything that matches my problem.

So far I have checked for air leaks with carb cleaner, and found none. Then I read some where the vacuum advance on the distributor could have gone bad so I checked it, the front holds vacuum but the back one doesn't, but I don't know if the back one is supposed to. The plugs were fine when I put them in 40 miles ago, cap and rotor are new, wires are good. So I'm not sure where to look.

Here is the scenario, I start the truck up to go to the dump, it starts on the first turn over and idles about 2k rpm, but misses consistently. Drive to the dump with 700 pounds of trash and it pulls as well as you would expect the 22r to at free way speed. Get to the dump and the rpm are still at 2k ( the engine is full operating temp by this time) so I goose it to see if it will drop to idle but the rpm went up but then it dies. Every time I would restart it would die unless it was given gas or under load. After fighting with it (restarting it about 10 times to get in and out of the dump), it starts idling as it should. So I go to Home depot and when I start it back up it just dies, by the time I get to the first light its idling just fine with no miss. Then when I get off the free way when I pushed in the clutch and it would just die and it was the same song and dance the whole way home. Sometimes it would idle fine others not at all. When I had to restart the truck after dieing It would have to turn over a bunch of times and I had to pump the gas. Its driving me crazy and making me regret getting a carbed vehicle, any help would be greatly appreciated.

adamsbro1

On the carb I'm really not sure mine does the same thing I have learned to drive with three feet lol, so if you do figure it out PLEASE inform me. Next is the seats sorry had to ask what kind of modifications did you have to make to get those seats in? They look nice and my 82 is in dire need of seats

yoder519

sokoji- im in the same boat my friend. except mines EFI 85. had it since Jan and still aint got it runnin. its super frustrating aint it? hope all goes well, and those seats look great. ida never thought of them. how do you got the bed rack mounted to the bed?

sokoji

iTrader: (1)

adamsbro1- I knew I should have taken pics when I was putting them in, but they are pretty easy. The rails on the seats are a bit wider than the Toyota so I had to "massage" the transmission tunnel a little so that the seats would sit flat. Then on the front of the rails they have two spikes on the Hyundai seats I just drilled holes for those in the rail that the Toyota seats use to sit on. Now I put the holes close to the edge of the front of the rail, because the Hyundai seats rails are flat and the Toyota make kinda an L shape to attach. So with the spikes in the hole I took a sledge and just beat on them till they conformed to the shape of the rail then drilled holes for the bolts. After that I drilled two new holes for the back to bolts of the seat and used fender washers to bolt it down real tight. Also I had to cut a small portion of the rail to make room for a bracket that holds a spring on the seat. But all in all it was pretty easy, first time doing it for me, and from start to finish it took about 3 hours. Also another reason I went with this type of seat is they were pretty plentiful in the junkyard and the cars are still fairly new. I got mine out of 2000 Hyundai and they used that same body style for many years.


Yoder519- I just drilled holes into the top of the bed and used 3/8in bolts with fender washers, 3 on each side, the sides are pretty study but I didn't use to many because I wanted to be able to take it off pretty quickly.

83

You're getting the same exact symptoms whether you've got the Weber or the Aisin on there?

sokoji

iTrader: (1)

With the Weber on there I can't even get out of the drive way, as soon as I give it gas it will die. I tried the stock stock idle mixture and it did the same thing. So I kept backing it out but the idle never got any better. So no not the same symptoms between the two.

I'm thinking it might have something to do with the choke though because with the air cleaner off and the engine running and warmed up the choke plate isn't vertical its more 1/2 to 3/4 open and it will still be in fast idle. But alot of the times if I push the plate all the way open and goose it, it will drop down into the idle where its supposed to be.