Cold Heat soldering Iron

Keggo · 06-21-2005, 09:09 PM

Hey Guys... I just bought a Cold Heat soldering iron from Radioshack. So far, I LOVE IT! It works really good! I've only been soldering l.e.d.'s w/ resistors, but, it's working great! If any of you are wondering about it, I must say, for work that isn't too intricate, I HIGHLY recommend it!

***midiwall*** · 06-21-2005, 09:26 PM

Yeup, they're pretty cool. Ceramics in action!

A head's up... I was just in CostCo tonight and they're selling the "as advertised on TV" combo pack of the Cold Heat iron and the wire stripper for $17.99.

Keggo · 06-22-2005, 02:34 PM

Maybe I should take mine back to radioshack and get it at Costco! Hahaha, thanks for the info!

DudeBud · 06-22-2005, 09:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by midiwall

Yeup, they're pretty cool. Ceramics in action!

A head's up... I was just in CostCo tonight and they're selling the "as advertised on TV" combo pack of the Cold Heat iron and the wire stripper for $17.99.

any chance you could tell me what costco?

jimbo74 · 06-22-2005, 09:47 PM

i saw them at both my local costcos.....

cabbage · 06-22-2005, 10:20 PM

Same thing (Coleman right?) at Harbor Freight without wire stripper for $15.99 I think its ok, was kinda hard to use when I was cramped down sodering behind the kick panels.

DudeBud · 06-22-2005, 10:24 PM

is this that one you guys see at costco http://www.coldheat.com/NR/store/ind...utm_medium=ppc

jimbo74 · 06-22-2005, 11:04 PM

yup..... that is the one i saw... same on they have on tv

**Yoda** · 06-23-2005, 05:15 AM

Costco in Issaquah and South Center had them

***midiwall*** · 06-23-2005, 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yoda

Costco in Issaquah and South Center had them

And Kirkland.

They had the unit alone for a while and then when I was there Tuesday they had a new blister pack which was the set (iron and wire stripper).

DudeBud · 06-23-2005, 09:55 AM

thanks im going to go get one

anthony1 · 06-23-2005, 11:32 AM

It works great if the surface is not too small. For connectors, I still rely on my solder iron. It seems there's two forks that have to make contact with the surface and cause a short which then heat the tip. It's good for like one time solder kinda thing.

94x4 · 06-24-2005, 01:53 PM

I've mentioned the use of these before in the "Stereo" thread... they trully do work great for stereo installations and other such applications (I've resoldiered the contacts on one of my auto alarm remotes and it worked impeccably, uh, AWESOME).
The key to it all is to not use pressure, only contact as the carbon tip is fragile.

krasher · 06-24-2005, 06:45 PM

Huh. Mine was a royal POS. The tip broke and it managed to solder its own tip together, so, yes, no more contact. BUSTED.

X-mas present from my pop too.
Ah well. At least you guys are having luck.

Keggo · 06-29-2005, 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by krasher

Huh. Mine was a royal POS. The tip broke and it managed to solder its own tip together, so, yes, no more contact. BUSTED.

X-mas present from my pop too.
Ah well. At least you guys are having luck.

You can buy new tips for it... and when you're soldering are you contacting the solder directly? I've found the cleanest and easiest way is to heat the metal that will be soldered and hold the solder to the metal... and VOILA! A perfect joint! You can get the new tips from any RadioShack.

***midiwall*** · 06-29-2005, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keggo

Yand when you're soldering are you contacting the solder directly? I've found the cleanest and easiest way is to heat the metal that will be soldered and hold the solder to the metal... and VOILA! A perfect joint!

This is the proper way to solder or braze no matter what the tool. You _always_ want the solder (or brass/copper when brazing) to flow into the heat on the metal, never down the tip to the target.

I have a ColdHeat now and I can see why people don't like it.

I was soldering a T connection in a power lead install the other day, so I had a power lead floating in the air, stripped in the middle and a 3rd lead to attach to it. I had a heck of a time getting enough tension on the wire to maintain a solid connection with the ColdHeat so that it would work. I tried a few times, but was thrashing and in a werid position so I finally gave up and went back to my butane iron. I had it done in seconds.

I'll keep mine, and it'll get used, but I'll need to practice a bit to find a way to grip a wire with my pinky/ring finger then guide the iron with thumb/index/middle while guiding solder with my left.

PirateFins · 06-29-2005, 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by midiwall

I'll keep mine, and it'll get used, but I'll need to practice a bit to find a way to grip a wire with my pinky/ring finger then guide the iron with thumb/index/middle while guiding solder with my left.

Here is a nice little trick for a non-wire holding, strong solder joint. Please use saftey glasses.

Strip the wire you are using to connect a little longer than needed ( I usually strip it 2x's as long.
"Tin" the end of the wire by flowing solder onto it, after there is a good amount of solder remove the heat and quickly give the end of the wire a flick of the finger (away from you, and this is what the glasses are needed for the most) to remove the excess solder.
The strands of the wire are now soldered together :Tinned". Take a pair of needle nose pliers and make a J with the end.
Put the J over or through the contact point. Use the needle nose to crimp it down so it holds itself in place and is touching itself.
Solder the wire to the connection point. Cut off any excess wire end that is not needed or sticking out.
This allows you to hold the heat with one hand and the solder in the other without having to hold the wire.

Hope that helps out for some.

Keggo · 06-30-2005, 07:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PirateFins

The strands of the wire are now soldered together :Tinned". Take a pair of needle nose pliers and make a J with the end.
Put the J over or through the contact point. Use the needle nose to crimp it down so it holds itself in place and is touching itself.
Solder the wire to the connection point. Cut off any excess wire end that is not needed or sticking out.

This is kind of the way I do it... I don't tin the wires though (which I probably should on some wires, but haven't had a problem yet). I pretty much just take both wires, make the ends into j's (some wires aren't as maleable as others, which is why tinning is a good technique), hook the two "j's" together then loop the wire(s) back around and twist. This to me puts less stress on the solder itself seeing as how there are two types of joints (solder, and loop). In your case Midiwall, just do the same with the third wire. This is pretty much the same as Pirate's, just a different "version" so to speak... Then of course heat shrink the motha... hahahah

***midiwall*** · 06-30-2005, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keggo

In your case Midiwall, just do the same with the third wire. This is pretty much the same as Pirate's, just a different "version" so to speak... Then of course heat shrink the motha... hahahah

Yeah, I always make a mechanical connection first, and I'm a stickler about tinning.

The issue here was that the wire where the splice was going was too long to get any tension on, so the wire wouldn't provide any resistance to my pushing against it. Given that the ColdHeat needs a pretty consistent connection across the tip to work, it wouldn't stay put and heat things up.

Since the ColdHeat heats the work and not the tip, I couldn't just lay the wire into residual heat on the tip - you have to short the slit in the tip.

89macrunner · 07-01-2005, 12:46 AM

what i do is i put some solder on the wire and let it dry...than i put the wire with the solder already on it next to what im going to solder it to....than i just heat the solder and let it go again

is this wrong?

06-21-2005, 09:09 PM	#1 (permalink)
Keggo Contributing Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Bakersfield, CA Posts: 1,867	Cold Heat soldering Iron Hey Guys... I just bought a Cold Heat soldering iron from Radioshack. So far, I LOVE IT! It works really good! I've only been soldering l.e.d.'s w/ resistors, but, it's working great! If any of you are wondering about it, I must say, for work that isn't too intricate, I HIGHLY recommend it! __________________ - Kevin E. G. SOLD!!! '91 4Runner SR5 V6 5spd: CLICK!! FOR SALE NOW! Proud dad of Kai E. G.!

06-21-2005, 09:26 PM	#2 (permalink)
*midiwall* Sponsoring Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Seattleish, WA Posts: 9,102	Yeup, they're pretty cool. Ceramics in action! A head's up... I was just in CostCo tonight and they're selling the "as advertised on TV" combo pack of the Cold Heat iron and the wire stripper for $17.99. __________________ ~ Mark '96 4Runner Limited S/C MI - 370cc injectors, Air! horns, Airaid MIT, ATS A-arms, 285/75/R16 BFG MTs, Bored TB, Brembo slotted, Cobra 75 WXST, Deckplate, Downey headers, Hayden cooler, IPT valve body, Level 10 torque convertor, Meanstreak exhaust, OME/OME rears, On-board PC (XM, Nav, WiFi, etc), Port 'n Polish, Remote Start, SAW fronts, Hilux console, SMT-5, Stubb's sliders, Supra MAF, TJM-17, 2.0" pulley, Viair 450c, Walbro 190, Weasy2k cams

06-22-2005, 02:34 PM	#3 (permalink)
Keggo Contributing Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Bakersfield, CA Posts: 1,867	Maybe I should take mine back to radioshack and get it at Costco! Hahaha, thanks for the info! __________________ - Kevin E. G. SOLD!!! '91 4Runner SR5 V6 5spd: CLICK!! FOR SALE NOW! Proud dad of Kai E. G.!

06-22-2005, 10:20 PM	#6 (permalink)
cabbage Contributing Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: Santa Maria, CA Posts: 620	Same thing (Coleman right?) at Harbor Freight without wire stripper for $15.99 I think its ok, was kinda hard to use when I was cramped down sodering behind the kick panels. __________________ Milton 01 Tacoma access cab 4x4 TRD TC Long travel, Supercharged 04 Tacoma Doublecab 4x4 TRD hoes all around!

06-22-2005, 10:24 PM	#7 (permalink)
DudeBud Contributing Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: WA ,monroe Posts: 1,830	is this that one you guys see at costco http://www.coldheat.com/NR/store/ind...utm_medium=ppc __________________ Dan 84 4runner sr5 Ford 302 T-18 4spd yota t-case yota front and rear both open 37X13.00 boggers 88 4runner 22re 5spd

06-22-2005, 09:47 PM	#5 (permalink)
jimbo74 Banned Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Nor*Cal Posts: 6,592	i saw them at both my local costcos.....

06-22-2005, 11:04 PM	#8 (permalink)
jimbo74 Banned Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Nor*Cal Posts: 6,592	yup..... that is the one i saw... same on they have on tv

06-23-2005, 05:15 AM	#9 (permalink)
Yoda Super Moderator Staff Join Date: May 2002 Location: North Bend, WA Posts: 2,648	Costco in Issaquah and South Center had them __________________ David TLCA 14788 71 Landcruiser FJ-40 TBI 327, TH-350, Warn 8000, disk axle swap. 76 Landcruiser FJ-40 project/parts (haven't decided)

06-23-2005, 09:55 AM	#11 (permalink)
DudeBud Contributing Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: WA ,monroe Posts: 1,830	thanks im going to go get one __________________ Dan 84 4runner sr5 Ford 302 T-18 4spd yota t-case yota front and rear both open 37X13.00 boggers 88 4runner 22re 5spd

06-23-2005, 11:32 AM	#12 (permalink)
anthony1 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: torrance, CA. Posts: 877	It works great if the surface is not too small. For connectors, I still rely on my solder iron. It seems there's two forks that have to make contact with the surface and cause a short which then heat the tip. It's good for like one time solder kinda thing. __________________ http://www.angelfire.com/ca6/954runner GOD's Country Best Seen In A 4 Runner. SAS front: lf,ARB,Ml4",Marlin arms, rear: cable elock,APlinks,OEmu860,35MT/R 5spd, 4:1.

06-24-2005, 01:53 PM	#13 (permalink)
94x4 Guest Join Date: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,429	I've mentioned the use of these before in the "Stereo" thread... they trully do work great for stereo installations and other such applications (I've resoldiered the contacts on one of my auto alarm remotes and it worked impeccably, uh, AWESOME). The key to it all is to not use pressure, only contact as the carbon tip is fragile.

06-24-2005, 06:45 PM	#14 (permalink)
krasher Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Mankato, MN Posts: 158	Huh. Mine was a royal POS. The tip broke and it managed to solder its own tip together, so, yes, no more contact. BUSTED. X-mas present from my pop too. Ah well. At least you guys are having luck. __________________ -keir '99 Taco TRD '02 Jetta TDI (JEDI) '98 Shadow Aero A computer lets you make more mistakes faster than any other invention in human history, with the possible exception of handguns and tequila. - Mitch Ratcliffe

07-01-2005, 12:46 AM	#20 (permalink)
89macrunner Contributing Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Tempe, AZ Posts: 2,067	what i do is i put some solder on the wire and let it dry...than i put the wire with the solder already on it next to what im going to solder it to....than i just heat the solder and let it go again is this wrong? __________________ Daily Driver: 2007 Windsor "The Hour" Fixed Gear 250 miles Crouch Rocket 2005 Felt F80 1100mi (purchased new in Jan 2008) 2006 Mazda3 GT 2000 TRD Tacoma..Bought back and crushed 1988 4Runner SR5 V6 5 speed..sold