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How to fix “CLACK CLACK CLACK” 22RE Block Rebuild

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Old Mar 21, 2006 | 05:07 AM
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MudRunner 22RE Block Rebuild

As some of you may remember I rebuilt the head on my 4Runner in the fall after the timing chain broke. (I needed a new head anyway due to the stripped rear exhaust manifold bolts) So new head, new timing chain and guides, all new gaskets, new O2 sensors and all new belts, I was good to go. Truck ran great for about 2 months when I suddenly got a bottom end knock from the motor. (go figure huh)

At this point I started thinking insane stuff like putting a Domestic Junk engine in the Toyota , Crazy thoughts of 5.0L engines in the 4Runner, Wacko ideas of Small Block 350’s, and Chevy Vortec motors, heck at one point I even wondered if it was possible to install a JEEP (yes a JEEP) 4.0L motor into my truck.

Well I’ve come to my senses. And Finally decided it would be best to re-build a Block in my garage, than come spring get the 4Runner towed back to my house and install the rebuilt block onto my recently rebuilt head.

One thing you should realize is that Toyota Parts are next to impossible to get around here. And you usually end up paying an arm and leg; you will almost never find a Toyota 4x4 in any wrecking yard. So once again I found the answer to my problems with the Suzuki Boys www.zookpower.ca seems like these crazy guys are eating up all the 22RE engines, Toyota Axels, t-cases… these guys are running them in there Sami’s and Kicks. And stashing all the parts in there shops. I ended up grabbing an 85 engine off one of the zook boys for $120.00 all I wanted was the Block but I ended up getting a complete motor (No biggie I just now have ANOTHER spare EFI setup )

So heres the block after a couple hours of tearing all the crap off.








another spare EFI setup (I now have two complete 85 EFI systems) Time to sell some junk on ebay. Unless anyone here needs one for a carb to efi swap ?????



Next step is to get a couple buddies over so I can mount this motor to the engine stand ….For such a SMALL little engine man that things weighs a ton.
than start cleaning it all up

I plan on going with an engnblder kit from Ted probably .040 over for the pistons.
I still need to finalize things with Ted and get his suggestions.
Heres a linky: http://www.engnbldr.com/ToyotaHotLicks.htm

The machine shop around here charges $80.00 for block inspection and testing, and $23 per piston to bore out.. so $172 Canadian plus 15% tax

This is going to be a slow rebuild as I plan on taking my time and I’m in no real rush either..

Last edited by 4Hummer; Mar 24, 2006 at 08:32 PM.
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Old Mar 21, 2006 | 05:54 AM
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Interested to see how it turns out, Good Luck. Your barver then I am.
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Old Mar 21, 2006 | 06:07 AM
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hears what i would do, (if you dont have exposed ceiling joists) go up into the attica and span accross a couple of joists with either some angle or some 2x. then use some 5/8 or 3/4 or something all tread (threaded rod) come down through the celing and attach a eyelet to it and rig up a block and tackle to pick the motor up. (or anything that weighs a couple hundred pounds for that matter)

good luck on the build up!
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Old Mar 21, 2006 | 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by snap-on
hears what i would do, (if you dont have exposed ceiling joists) go up into the attica and span accross a couple of joists with either some angle or some 2x. then use some 5/8 or 3/4 or something all tread (threaded rod) come down through the celing and attach a eyelet to it and rig up a block and tackle to pick the motor up. (or anything that weighs a couple hundred pounds for that matter)

good luck on the build up!
Great Idea. But the Great Room (Fancy name for living room) is right about the garage So its gonna take a couple buddies, and a case of beer.

Now I gotta decide what color to paint the block ? Im thinking Silver!
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Old Mar 21, 2006 | 08:15 PM
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Its in the stand..



I'm going to bed.
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Old Mar 22, 2006 | 08:23 AM
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I just finished rebuilding my 22RE. I also got a block from somewhere else. I was able to get it on the stand by myself. I removed the head as you did, attached the holder portion to the block, laid the stand down and slid it into place, locked it in and stood it up. Then I went to bed too.

I was going to send it out to a machine shop but I was on a very tight budget. I measured up the cylinders and journals and decided it definately didn't need to be bored. I set the crank in dry with the new bearings and checked the clearance with plastigauge on each journal. Everything was perfect. Then I did the same thing with the rod bearings and averything was still good. Then I took it apart and reassembled with lube. I also honed the cylinders.

I just got it back together Sunday night. So far everyting is great. I had to re-torque the oil pan and exhaust manifold bolts. The only thing left is to adjust the valves. They are a little loud. I'll check the tourque on the head bolts then.

Incidently, I painted mine black. I believe thats the color they came stock.

I noticed the crank pulley is still on yours. That is tough to get off once the motor is apart. I loosened mine with the head and timing chain still on. I placed a long screw driver into the cam gear with a small block of wood to protect the head. Then put a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt while holding it in place with the screwdriver up top. They are torqued to 118 ft-lb. If you have a 3/4" drive impact, that may do the trick. Mine wouldn't budge with a 1/2" drive impact.

The guys at engnbldr.com were great to deal with. I have absolutely no complaints. I'm into my motor for under $500 including extra run to the store type stuff. I had pictures of the whole process but accidently deleted them because I thought my daughter transferred them onto the computer. :pat:

Good luck.
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Old Mar 22, 2006 | 08:32 AM
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From: Peoria IL
i wedged a piece of wood in between the crank and the side of the block to keep mine from spinning when i took the crank bolt off.
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Old Mar 22, 2006 | 09:54 AM
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Yeah crank bolt is fighting with me right now. I soaked it in release all so hopefully tonight it will come off for me.

Than its time to drain the oil. (found out it was still full when I was spinning the motor around on the stand ) than remove oil pan.

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Old Mar 24, 2006 | 08:51 PM
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Cleaning

I resized the pics to help out you dail up guys and My server

Newfie Toyota buddy of mine gave me some engine cleaner/ degreaser, its actually floor degreaser called citrussal, citrusole (sp?)

Works pretty good, I havent had time to pressure wash it yet. Plus its snowing a little outside (spring my )

Oh as you will see I got the crank shaft bolt off . Took 2 beers and a propane torch just sitting there heating it up.

anyway on to the pics cause I need to go to bed.

This side is cleaned up a little better than the other. And I tested painted a small section. I figure Red should add another 5 HP.


Heres the other Side... Did these motors come Blue ?????


End the insides.... I think this is what Im replacing ?


And I gotta say once you take everything off. Its a tiny little motor.


Hopefully tommorrow I get a chance to wash it down.

going to bed.
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Old Mar 24, 2006 | 09:14 PM
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Take everything off, it' a tiny motor. Put everything back on, it lugs a heavy SUV sometimes.

Paint it black.
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 05:16 AM
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Yup. That's what mine looked like a couple of weeks ago. I've got 120 miles on it now. I figure if it was gonna blow it would have done so by now.

I read somehwere that black is the original color. Engnbldrs paint theirs blue.

The book tells you just about everything you need to know. The master rebuild kit from engnbldrs.com comes with everything you need and then some. I ended up with several extra gaskets and such.

Good luck!
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 05:19 AM
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oh yeah,

You may want to do the rear main seal now. It can be a pain if you don't have a crane handy to pull it off the stand. At least you can set it on the floor while it's apart like you have it now.

I had a crane so I pulled it off the stand, removed/installed and put it back on the stand.
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by maxpower_hd

I read somehwere that black is the original color. Engnbldrs paint theirs blue.

Good luck!
I wonder if that means this engine has been rebuilt ?
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Old Mar 25, 2006 | 12:39 PM
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Which book you guys talking about??? If its the FSM then i'm screwed because the best i can get is a 94 i think for my 90 *grumble*
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 05:09 AM
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A Haynes service manual should do the trick. It is based on a rip down and rebuild. You will have to flip back and forth but everything is there. I got mine at a Pep Boys. They seem to have the best selection in these parts.

I believe there is an on-line one as well. I'll try to find it.
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 05:14 AM
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Here is a link to a list of free on-line sources and where to obtain the factory manual if needed.
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t99418.html
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by maxpower_hd
A Haynes service manual should do the trick. It is based on a rip down and rebuild. You will have to flip back and forth but everything is there. I got mine at a Pep Boys. They seem to have the best selection in these parts.

I believe there is an on-line one as well. I'll try to find it.
Thats what Im using, and a little commen sence. This is as Basic as motors can possably be. Ive never rebuilt a toyota 4 banger, but a few Chevy 350's.

More pics tonight, the engine block has been painted Bright Racing Red. that should add at least 10 HP and Im debating painting a Silver Type R on it for an additional 25 HP

Last edited by 4Hummer; Mar 28, 2006 at 04:12 PM.
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 10:52 AM
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Would get more power with a silver block and a red "R". LMAO
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by tc
Would get more power with a silver block and a red "R". LMAO

OH no I messed up the color scheme..... So its Red on Silver for 50 HP and Silver on Red for an extra 25 HP ? Jeez I guess I shoulda checked on www.ricers.com forums before painting huh.


Last edited by 4Hummer; Mar 28, 2006 at 04:13 PM.
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 02:11 PM
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Oh, and 4hummer, don't forget a shift knob. It will instantly add 15 hp and increase clutch response in manual shift vehicles, especially if it is color-coordinated to your engine AND body.

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