I have a 96 4runner sr5 and my valve cover gasket seems to be leaking. does anyone know why it happens. is it just b/c i have 190K on it and its time to change it? also, is it a PITA to change it myself?

thanks

Matt

 

Since you didn't mention what engine you have, I'll assume you have the 4 cylinder (22RE).

I changed mine when I did my head gasket at 165k. The rubber being exposed to heat, eventually hardens and loses all it's "give". They are very easy to change. Just unbolt the bracket on top of the cover, disconnect the lines that cross over to the drivers side (mark or take pictures of any disconnected lines), and flip the bracket (with sensors still attached) over toward the passenger side. After that, it's the 4 nuts on top of the cover and you're ready to pull the valve cover straight up and out. When replacing the gasket, no sealant is required on the main gasket, but you should put some on the half-moon gaskets at the front/rear of the cover.

Now that you know how to get the cover off, you'll know how to get to the valves to adjust them. If you haven't adjusted them before, now is a good time. Just remember that they need to be adjusted warm. If you don't have a repair manual yet, you should get one. It will explain the sequence of doing this. If you don't have one and still want to know how to adjust them, just say so.

Cheers.

Edit: Actually, check this article out. About 3/4 down the page they show you how to adjust the valves. http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/camshaft/

 

i have a 3.4L. the 22re's were in the older toys.

matt

 

Whoops! I guess I should have looked at the year

 

BUMP

anyone have a good 3.4 write-up?

 

i just got it done...it was 425 for that and getting my hoses fixed and fliuh coolant

 

I had the same thing on my (1996 4Runner 3.4l 4x4). All I did is tied all bolts that I could reach without removing anything. Be careful not to over tie them. But it is leak free for almost two years now.

 

What is the correct lbs to tighten to on valve cover bolts?

 

maybe 4ft lbs? dont quote me on that

 

let me check my FSM

 

It should be torqued to 53 in-lbs which is just about 4 ft-lbs. Since don't have a torque wrench that goes down that far accurately, I use the on finger method (ie as tight as I can get it with my thumb on the ratchet head and one finger on the handle).

 

That is exactly what I Did!