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What do you guys suggest for cap's and amp's?

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Old Nov 7, 2004 | 06:04 PM
  #1  
Greg_Canada's Avatar
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From: Toronto
What do you guys suggest for cap's and amp's?

Well, i want to install a cap for my sub, and an amp for my speakers.
Right now i have infinity 6.5 components in the back (90RMS) and infintiy 4.5's in the front (35RMS).
I'll probably be installing 2 more woofers/components in the front doors or kicks, or 8" subs (either one).
What do you guys think would be an apropriate amp? 4 Channel what? Rockford, mtx, inifinty?
Oh, and what cap for my sub? it's a 300w sub at 4 ohms, 400 w amp at 2 ohms (so 200w it's pushing, RMS of course). will a 1 farad cap be fine? Rockfords decent? (they sell em at best buy, closest place to me and they're ike 100 bucks)... or i cna get lightning audio... i know ˟˟˟˟ about them so...

Thanks,
Greg
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Old Nov 8, 2004 | 12:35 AM
  #2  
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From: Oahu, Hawaii
Bat caps are awsome. Once I put that in, into the trash went my rockford and lighting audio caps. BTW they are made by Xstatic and are about $200
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Old Nov 8, 2004 | 12:37 AM
  #3  
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From: Nor*Cal
lightning audio sucks!
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Old Nov 8, 2004 | 08:46 AM
  #4  
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At that amount of output, do you really think you NEED a cap? I strongly suggest taking the correct steps first. Get a high output alternator, then go from there.
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Old Nov 9, 2004 | 12:26 AM
  #5  
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I must be a sinner. I have no HO alternator YEt im running nearly 2000 watts. BUt to counter that I have a bat cap and a optima blue to. With one waiting on the side to be installed with the HO alternator
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Old Nov 9, 2004 | 12:51 AM
  #6  
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From: Fort Worth/College Station, TX
I've always been told new batt, cap, then altenator. Since usually the alt is the most expensive.
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Old Nov 9, 2004 | 11:19 AM
  #7  
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I would upgrade the Batt first, then alternator - and cap if completely necessary. Use 0 guage wire for everything under the hood (grounds and batter leads) and see if that helps also.

Alternators are expensive, so you could even try a dual battery setup if you know how to wire it (you have to isolate them so they don't drain each other). But then you are talking about almost the same money for the ALT.

I would check over all your connections and see if you can't adjust some settings first before just trying to add things into the system and spending a lot of money.
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Old Nov 10, 2004 | 05:52 PM
  #8  
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Well, it runs pretty decent now, i will be adding an optima soon. Next spring a winch and driving lights too, so those drain more (the lights atleast, winches aren't used when the stereo is on).

Well how about 4 channel amps? What do you guys suggest?
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Old Nov 24, 2004 | 11:03 PM
  #9  
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I'm not sure what the prices for HO alternators that everyone is looking for, but I got mine from Dominic Iraggi for about $450 with a lifetime warranty. Its a 220amp alternator, and I've had it in my Tacoma DoubleCab for almost 2 years with no problems. Look on the forums at www.termpro.com and find the user name "trafficjamz". he'll hook you up.

Batteries are expensive band-aids. 1 farad caps are even worse. Batcaps are great though....around $175 for the Batcap 300. They are said to be equal to 100 1 farad caps. My installer just recieved a imitation to it made by cyclone audio, and they are about 1/2 the batcap price. I'll post up more info after I try it out in my truck
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Old Nov 24, 2004 | 11:55 PM
  #10  
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From: N37 39* W122 3*
imo,

1. batt first.
2. check system requirements. rewire if needed.
3. if you listen with engine off A LOT of the times, then you need a second batt.
4. if your overall amperage requirements is over 80% of yhour current alternator's max ouput, and you HAMMER your system all the time, then get HO alt.
5. if your headlights dim when idling, then get cap.

corollary: if you compete in car stereo events, get all 3...
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Old Nov 25, 2004 | 06:59 PM
  #11  
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From: Sarasota, FL
Originally Posted by jimabena74
lightning audio sucks!
HOLY IGNORANT POST BATMAN!! But then again he was a kerry supporter. LA makes some equipment that will mop the floor with any mainstream sub save the w7. I love how some people make broad sweeping statements on topics and companies they know nothing about.



If you have dimming, from an electrical standpoint and the correct standpoint, the first thing you do is the big 3. Do a search and you will find TONS of info here and on www.termpro.com The big 3 will make a difference and be relatively cheap. If it does not, continue down the list...

1. big 3
2. HO alt
3. extra batteries (this should cover you up to about 10kW with one HO alt)
4. if you buy a cap for dimming ima slap you. lol
5. more batteries/more alt (only needed for systems over 10kW usually)
6. you can buy a cap for sq reasons only for sudden bass transients.

Caps dont do anything for sustained bass, only for sudden impacts like a kick drum. Beyond that they are only more drain on the alt once discharged.

Batcaps Im reserving judgement on...

btw - I have a 190amp direct bolt on alternator from www.hoalternators.com and 2 svr 75s gel cells. The RMS rating on my system is 9,000 watts. After impeadance spike at 58hz from back EMF the bass end of things has 7,600 watts real power going through the 4 L7's coils. At full tilt burp my voltage still drops to about 10.9 at the end of a 4 second sustain. However I will not sit inside the vehicle for such a sustain - it physically hurts. For daily driving and my more moderate listening needs my electrical system more than suffices.

Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; Nov 25, 2004 at 07:14 PM.
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Old Nov 25, 2004 | 07:29 PM
  #12  
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From: Decatur TN
caps are usefull i had one on a stock electrical mustang system and it worked great. no more dimmed headlights or muddy bass. kinda like making sure your amp has all the "gas" it needs. 1 farad on a stock system is fine
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Old Nov 25, 2004 | 07:30 PM
  #13  
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p.s mine is a lightning audio
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Old Nov 25, 2004 | 07:36 PM
  #14  
Bumpin' Yota's Avatar
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From: Sarasota, FL
A capacitor will be discharged completely in under 1 second. It may take away dimming on a kick drum but it will do nothing for long bass sustains. And I can prove that if you like.
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Old Nov 29, 2004 | 09:23 PM
  #15  
Ajs DrtyRig's Avatar
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From: San Rafael, CA
Originally Posted by Bumpin' Yota
HOLY IGNORANT POST BATMAN!! But then again he was a kerry supporter. LA makes some equipment that will mop the floor with any mainstream sub save the w7. I love how some people make broad sweeping statements on topics and companies they know nothing about.



If you have dimming, from an electrical standpoint and the correct standpoint, the first thing you do is the big 3. Do a search and you will find TONS of info here and on www.termpro.com The big 3 will make a difference and be relatively cheap. If it does not, continue down the list...

1. big 3
2. HO alt
3. extra batteries (this should cover you up to about 10kW with one HO alt)
4. if you buy a cap for dimming ima slap you. lol
5. more batteries/more alt (only needed for systems over 10kW usually)
6. you can buy a cap for sq reasons only for sudden bass transients.

Caps dont do anything for sustained bass, only for sudden impacts like a kick drum. Beyond that they are only more drain on the alt once discharged.

Batcaps Im reserving judgement on...

btw - I have a 190amp direct bolt on alternator from www.hoalternators.com and 2 svr 75s gel cells. The RMS rating on my system is 9,000 watts. After impeadance spike at 58hz from back EMF the bass end of things has 7,600 watts real power going through the 4 L7's coils. At full tilt burp my voltage still drops to about 10.9 at the end of a 4 second sustain. However I will not sit inside the vehicle for such a sustain - it physically hurts. For daily driving and my more moderate listening needs my electrical system more than suffices.
Hey dude, Im sorry for the question, i hope i dont sound too noob. Anyways, iv got in my 91' ext. pickup, a/d/s componants with an 8ch. a/d/s amp. and 2 JL 10w3v2's on a JBL 600.1. When im crankin the tunes, my lights are dimming on the hits. I have been reading about caps, but im still lost about what to do. should i get a cap? do i really have to buy a new alternator? thanks guys for reponding.

-Alex
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Old Nov 29, 2004 | 09:56 PM
  #16  
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From: Tuscaloosa, Al... ROLL TIDE!!!
Originally Posted by Bumpin' Yota
A capacitor will be discharged completely in under 1 second. It may take away dimming on a kick drum but it will do nothing for long bass sustains. And I can prove that if you like.
it makes ignorant people look at your system and think its sweet
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Old Nov 30, 2004 | 11:18 AM
  #17  
Fink's Avatar
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From: Orlando, FL
If you get a big enough cap it will completely reduce all drain on the lights, etc. I've got a 10 farad and I have no drain anywhere, I had a 5 and it worked fine. With the 2 farad I had a while back the dimming was very minimal.

Just my $.02,

Fink
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Old Dec 4, 2004 | 11:16 AM
  #18  
stevrock's Avatar
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I think caps are a waste of money, buy a HO alternator and get a better battery first.
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Old Dec 4, 2004 | 12:53 PM
  #19  
AzStorm's Avatar
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From: HELL,AKA Phoenix,Arizona
get your charging system up to speed then try this:
http://www.batcap.net/index1.htm
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