Found a leaking cam seal along with a leaking crank seal. I know there is a SST to hold the sproket so you can break it loose. Does anyone make a knock-off of this tool, or is Toyota the only one that carries it? Has anyone used a chain wrench? I was thinking maybe a chain wrench with a piece of old timing belt so the teeth don't get damaged.

Also..any good way to get these seals out? I tried to get the crank seal out with a small screwdriver, but gave up for the day. Thanks for any help...

 

Forgot to mention this is for the 3vze...been a long day.

 

Chain wrench will work fine but be very careful not to damage the teeth on the sprocket or it may lessen the life on the new belt.

 

Those bolts are hell.

See this thread for more info:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ead+gasket+set

Here's the tool I was going to buy:
http://store.autotoolexpress.com/uncamad.html

I Finally ended up making my own tool with a long peice of 3/4" square tube as the handle and 2 peices of angle iron that fit in the sprocket as the teeth (I think I could have used thick bolts in place of the angle iron for teeth) . With the sprocket held in place I used a 1/2" breaker bar and a cheater pipe to get the bolts out.

Sam

 

Thanks for the help. I just ordered that same tool about a half hour before reading this...since it looks like both seals are leaking. I thought the same as you, using angle iron and bolts. By doing the repair myself I figure I can buy a few tools and still be way ahead money wise. So far it hasn't been too bad...but it sounds like getting those bolts loose will be lots of fun. Thanks again for the help...appreciate it.

 

I changed the cam seals on my '89 Supra Turbo. Be sure to lube the seals with oil before you install them, if dry, the inner lip may fold over as you press it on, and it'll leak again. Good luck, keep us posted.

 

Funny you should mention that! I changed the main seal yesterday following the Haynes manual directions...applying a light film of grease on the inner lip. After I got it in I noticed about 1/4 of an inch of the inner lip folded over. I used a small screwdriver with duct tape on the tip to tuck it back under. It looks OK except for one small spot that doesn't look right. From what I've read, the inner lip is not the actual seal, but more or less is there to keep dirt from getting in. I'm going to replace it just for the peace of mind. Thanks for the info...every bit helps.

 

Just a little bit of assembly grease on the seal and crank before install will prevent that completely.
Also if the seal is not lubed at startup it may see excessive wear before getting lubrication.

 

I used a strap wrench you can buy at Walmart or any auto parts store. It's the rubber strap with plastic handle. It worked for holding the cam sprockets in place as well as turning over the main crank when the main bolt is not installed.

The tool came in handy for breaking loose the rear shocks from the locking nut on top.

J

 

Thanks...I'll try that next. I got the Lisle Universal Sprocket Tool today, and the only thing I accomplished so far was bending the crap out of this junk tool. The bolt wouldn't budge. Thanks eveyone for the help.

 

heres what i did, since i was putting a new timing belt on anyways, i just used it to protect the teeth on the gear, used big pipe wrench, and put a piece of pipe on my breaker bar for more leverage, and it came right undone. i think spec is like 80 ft/lb. i thik it took a good 250 to get them off.

 

Wow! Great idea! My neighbor across the street does HVAC work, and he has a pipe wrench that size. What's worse is I'm over there quite a bit when he needs help with the '69 Roadrunner he is working on...never thought of borrowing his plumbing tools. Guess my wife is right...she always says if you want to hide something from me, just put it right in front of me. Thanks for the picture.

 

If you are going to use a strap wrench, get a decent one like this:



Those crappy plastic ones they sell everywhere are total junk and will break in a second when used like you want to.
A chain wrench will also work great but be sure to protect the cam gear from damage by the chains.

 

That strap wrench does not work for crap.Bought an identical one and no dice.Here's a link for what you need.Only 40 bucks. Works like a charm.
http://www.zealtools.com/browseprodu...ey-Holder.HTML

 

That is the correct tool, the strap/chain wrench is only if you are in a bind and don't have access to a cam pulley tool.
......also you need to use a piece of rubber around the cam to help it grip for the strap/chain wrench.

You obviosly don't need the tool at all if you have access to an impact gun.

 

You cannot retorque it correctly when reinstalling without the tool.https://www.yotatech.com/newreply.ph...eply&p=897422#

 

The technically the impact gun is for loosening fasteners only although I've seen it use in practice as a mechanic for install as well. You are correct though, if you want to do it by the FSM procedure, you need to hold the cam pulley in place (by whatever method you choose, SST or otherwise) while using a torque wrench for proper bolt installation.

 

spanner wrench arent that expensive. it works great for the last several times i had to work on the front-side motor.

 

a piece of scrap 1" angle iron i had laying around, 2 holes, and a couple of bolts and i had the same thing as a $30 spanner wrench.

 

Don't see the tool at this link.