Hey guys, long post incoming. I am having issues with a crank, no start situation. Pulled the truck into the driveway without issue to work on timing belt and injector rebuild. Finished timing belt and ensured my marks are spot on. Injectors were rebuilt and pass all tests. Put everything back together and it will not start. Things I have tested so far:

Ignition: I have good spark.
Distributor air gap is good, all 3 pickups are within spec.
Coil is good.
Igniter is good.
Plug wires and plugs are all good.

Fuel: No fuel pulse.
Fuel pump is good with good fuel pressure to fuel rails.
Fuel regulator is good.
Fuel injectors rebuilt all good.
Cold start injector rebuilt and tests good.
Injector pigtails have continuity on both wires, have 12 volts to both sides with key on, only 12 volts on one side when they are all disconnected from the injectors which is good.
Plug noid light in and crank, no pulse on any injector. I checked one by one with all the others plugged in, and with all of them unplugged - same result.
I confirmed the harness ground is good to the back of the head, even ran another wire from that spot to the body.
Now here is the kicker and hopefully someone can lead me to the promised land! - When i put my test light on the NOT HOT side of the injector and crank, I get a pulse. So, I go to the ECM and check #10 and #20 for 12v when key is on just as a confirmation - and there is 12v. I check the 3 grounds, E1, E01, E02 and ALL of them have continuity and test well. So WTF is going on?? I provide the injector a ground and it pulses, when I take it away it doesn't, even though the 3 grounds at the ECM check out. What am I missing? It seems the ECU is pulsing and trying to ground since the test light is picking it up, but it's just not completing the circuit.

Any insight is greatly appreciated. Other things to note that have been checked and verified good:
Main EFI Relay
EFI Fuse
COR Relay
VAFM
TPS
Solenoid Resister
All 5 of the sensors on the water bypass block good.
Probably other things I can't remember. Help!

 

Okay I had really similar problems with my 3.0 so I chased a handful of no starts too. Definitely start with the simplest things don’t go replacing all your relays and fuses just yet.

something that’s really weird about the 3.0 is almost every component of ignition acts as an immobilizer as soon as it’s not working. I’m trying to say it sounds like definitely a large ignition component issue. In my testing they cut ignition altogether once they aren’t good.

Just to rule out the VAFM, it should allow the car to start, run for a few secs, and then die if it is totally unplugged. Plug it in and it won’t start at all then you should see if you can repair the internal contacts. It’s a delicate but not difficult soldering job, not impossible.

Triple check everything is fully plugged in correctly too? Coil, tps, igniter.

I believe the same test above applies to TPS. Unplug it should run terribly and throw a check engine, plugged in it should ideally work again.

For context my problem ended up being distributor, It tested correctly too. It would start beautifully cold and then fully cut spark and fuel to all when it switched to warm circuit. Not sure about tracking down what was going on with old but parts cannon works in rare occasions. No name whatever on there was replaced with the nicest newest one oreilys had to offer. Lifetime warranty.

Good luck

 

Thanks for the reply. So, even if I have solid spark you think it's an ignition issue? I have tested distributor, coil, igniter, and I have good spark. I tested all my wiring to the solenoid resister, to the injector plugs, the injectors, and the wiring from the injector plug to the ECU. Everything had continuity and checked out. Fuses and relays test fine. VAFM tests fine and I have another good one that I swapped in, same problem. I will try to unplug it and put it back together, but it is activating the fuel pump when cranking.

I also tested the TPS which was good. If I could get it to run, I would try unplugging it.

I think I have basically done everything to test the injector pulse system and what triggers it, and I think it's the ECU not grounding it. I have power to both #10 and #20 terminals and E01 and E02 ground check out. I'm gonna try to find a good ECU and test it out.

 

I'm not familiar with ECU testing, sounds like you touched just about every single other base though. Best of luck