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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

89 4runner engine dies after driving for a short period

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Old Dec 15, 2024 | 08:02 AM
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Newtomechanicwork's Avatar
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From: Oregon
89 4runner engine dies after driving for a short period

Hey everyone-- i've looked through a bunch of threads on here surrounding engine issues with peoples 4Runners dying and I wanted to start my own to see if I could get some help after listing out the work that's recently been done to my 89 4runner.

the truck: 1989 4runner, 3VZE engine. Purchased about three weeks ago. It was sitting in someones storage for about 3 years, undriven. Received a new battery.

What's been happening:
- Engine has been shutting off intermittently while driving. Usually dies while decelerating, coming to stop, at a stop, in stop and go traffic etc.
- It has also died being put into reverse (although less rare) and has also died driving up my driveway which has a steeper incline/hump to get over when pulling in.
- when it dies, full dash lights up and engine power is cut. No warning signs as far as I can tell.
- I don't have an RPM gauge on the truck so it's hard to tell where the RPMs are at when it's dying, but overall it feels like it's hardly idling or idling really low. Sometimes the idle feels inconsistent or a little rough.
- excessive white smoke exiting from the exhaust. recent work done to the fuel injectors (more details below) which i'm hoping solves this issue. too soon to tell as this one done this past friday. this mechanic and previous one mentioned it was likely excess gas burning off causing this. Others say potential head gasket issue? Smoke doesn't smell sweet, so mechanic says it's likely not coolant causing the smoke.
- with work done to the fuel injectors, there was also evidence of rodent infestation and damage to the wiring harness where. This looked like some of the insulation was chewed through with some exposed wires. Waiting for mechanic to share photos of this issue.

Here's what's been done.
- new battery, and also replaced the battery terminal and grounding wires yesterday.
- new intake hose to throttle body, as the previous was old and cracked down the bottom
- new engine air filter
- gas tank has been dropped, drained and cleaned
- replaced fuel filter
- replace fuel pump
- full tune up-- replaced distributor cap, spark plugs and wires
- had 4 fuel injectors rebuilt and 2 fully replaced. this was the most recent work done, and the mechanics were very clear that while this was a huge issue it wouldn't solve the stalling issues. 2x fuel injectors were leaking heavily
- oil change, and soon to get a transmission service done next week
- I have cleaned the throttle body, but have not tested the sensor or MAF sensor. I have a multimeter tool, but it's honestly hard to find a video that can explain how to do this.

Apologies if I left anything out, I'm new to working on older vehicles and just starting this journey! I do feel like I've spent quite a bit of money on a vehicle the seller claimed the engine and under carriage was in excellent condition and should need no work done to it. Obviously wasn't being honest and I knew too little on how to properly check these things. Any help or pointing in the right direction of things I can continue to do on my own vs. what I should send to a mechanic would be much appreciated. I'm at my wits end here trying to just get this thing to run without dying.

Last note:
I will say that what has been done has got the engine running much better-- more power and response in the throttle, but I do sense it almost not responding at times when pressing down on the gas pedal for a split second or two.

Thanks in advance.
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