1991 Toyota Pickup (mfrd in Japan and used as the cab.chassis for a Winnebago RV)
3VZE 3.0l engine
Automatic
Tilt wheel (ignition in the dash)

Based on tests, I believe I have an ignition switch that is shorting out. I will be making final tests to confirm when weather improves. This OEM part has been discontinued, so I would like to ask for other's experiences regarding a reliable aftermarket ignition switches. I do not need the ignition cylinder - just the electric ignition switch assembly Due to the less than accessible location for replacement, I am hoping to get one that will be of good quality..

I will not make a purchase until I get the suspect one out and can physically test it and confirm that it is the problem.. Based on the non-existent new OEM availability, and the variety of manufacturers of aftermarket ones ranging widely in price (and probably quality), I wanted to have a little information ready should I to make a purchase. I also understand that an option is to get a used OEM one from a salvage facility, but still have concerns with a used part of unknown condition. Therefore, I turn to the wide knowledge and experience of this great forum.

I would greatly appreciate your recommendations or suggestions on the pros/cons of used OEM (salvage) vs. aftermarket (and recommended brand and those to avoid at all costs)? Thanks in advance for your assistance.

FYI: The Toyota switch number I am seeking shows up as available as an OEM Toyota Lift Truck part number (but on backorder until Jan 25) and carrying a price that is well beyond reasonable at over 5 times the average cost of other aftermarket products. Plus I cannot get information if it is actually OEM or just a rebranded aftermarket product.so I'm not ready take the chance on it at this point.

 

84450-35120?
I did see one on Amazon of all places. They claim it's OEM. I don't always trust Amazon sellers, but at least returns are easy. If I could see the sticker on the bag just above the one with the part number i could get a better idea if it's legit.

 

Best thing I did after replacing a perfectly good starter is take the high current load off the ignition switch and use a Painless Wiring starter relay kit- I've done a few older vehicles and it works.

 

I also see them on eBay, ranging from 2-300 bucks for the set.

 

Thank you for the information.. I have found conflicting info regarding the compatibility between the part number that I have for my vehicle (84450-35080) and the part number on Amazon (84450-35120). I am not sure of the difference between the two, if any. Some sites indicate they are compatible and and other say not. From the limited info that I can find, the newer part number (35120) replaced 35080 beginning Aug 1991. My vehicle was manufactured May 1991 - right before the change.

While I am leaning towards the "it should work fine" I am hesitant to purchase it since I will not be potentially replacing it for at least a month, AND even with Amazon's return policy, many sellers are very "touchy" about returns on electrical related items. I will see if this item is still around when I can get the old one out and evaluate it.

Thanks again for the information.

 

Whats the model number off the vin decal in the door jam? with that info I can look it up exactly.

 

The model number is: VZN95L-TWSREA6
FYI: This vehicle is the cab/chassis for a Winnebago RV.
Thanks for your assistance.

 

84450-35080 would be correct. That one on Amazon MIGHT work, and they do show it returnable. How it’s different I can’t say. The change in August means it had some sort of redesign for the next model year. Both are discontinued by Toyota, so that one on Amazon is a “one off” if genuine.
my picture shows they can get the one for $38. They can’t. If you try and order they’ll send you a message in two days letting you know it’s disc.

edit: I just spent a bit of time googling both switches. From what I see, the 35080 has 8 male spade terminals in the connector, while the 35120 has 10 slightly smaller spade terminals.
Some inexpensive aftermarket’s ones out there.

 

Rock Auto aftermarket for 84450-35080
https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsear...um=84450-35080

Rock Auto aftermarket for 84450-35120
https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsear...um=84450-35120

 

Thanks for the information. This info looks like its from Amayama which has given me very accurate information about parts for my vehicle.and acknowledges my VIN). Many of the US parts houses will not recognize my VIN at all. I understand what you mean about the price on Amayama's page as I have had my hopes crushed when i thought I had located a source for previous search for a different discontinued part, The ToyotaDIY.com page also appears to have good info and can provide cross referenced parts as well.

I found another post that said the difference of the two part numbers was that one was for US sold vehicles and the other for Japan, but I cannot imagine why there would be a difference in the two (other than Japan has right hand drivers side vs. US left)??? There are some sites that indicate that both part numbers are a "fit" for my vehicle, while others do not. My gut says that both parts will probably work, but I'm just not comfortable in buying the Amazon one, then finding it does not. If a slight modification were required, I think could handle it, but do not feel $200's comfortable should I render the part unreturnable.

There are aftermarket ones available, as well as salvage ones. I hope to get some suggestions based on others experience with either of those options should I need to replace it. Thanks again for the information.

 

I see huge amounts of misinformation out there from sellers of Toyota parts regarding application.
If Toyota has two different part numbers it's almost always for a reason. If one was just a better design of the same part then they supercede the old number to the new one and discontinue the old.
I saw 10 pin terminals on the 84450-35120 and 8 pins on the 84450-35080. Now, like their information, I don't always trust the image retailers decide to use in their ad, but i saw it on enough listings of each where i feel comfortable making that distinction.

The other clincher is go look up other electrical parts for the VZV95L. Regardless of the part, each one had a different part number for before and after 8/91. Toyota did go to smaller terminal pins in the 1990's.

 

I agree about the misinformation floating around out there. I also agree with your assessment on why they changed part numbers. It is also interesting that Toyota Forklifts has the same P/N switch that I am seeking listed as a current part number (of course on backorder until Jan 25). I am not sure if they have the same OEM manufacturer as the 90's supplier, or if just another possible inventory listing error, but luckily I have time to evaluate my need to purchase or not. As always, thanks again for your help.

https://shop.toyotaforklift.com/en/c...NuWv5MSE0WP5Ws

 

you could always email them and ask about who makes it, and where it’s manufactured. If it’s Japan it might be worth considering. China? Well, than get it cheaper elsewhere. Much cheaper.

But regarding Toyota forklifts, it falls as a Divison under TMC, the Big Kahuna back in Japan that rules all. So i gotta imagine they use many of the same vendors. Toyota is EXTREMELY loyal that way

 

As far as aftermarket I've always done well with either Standard Motor Products or WVE (Wells Vehicle Electrics) parts for Toyotas. Good quality, reasonable price. For your app I'd get STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS US181:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...er+switch,4700

The "more info" page agrees with the previously stated OEM part number too (8445035080). Same switch for either the 2.4 or the 3.0 engine options btw.

 

Thank you for the information.

 

Hi which switch did you end up purchasing and how well is it working? I am also am looking at 84450-35080 toyota part # for my truck made June of 1991. From one supplier i have spoken with there was a split in 7/1991 with a different part.

I see some on ebay for cheap at $27, There are other brands available such as Eichlin $70(napa) , Rock auto has Rostra ($29), Standard ($54), WVE ($50), Beck- Arnley ($54). Orielly has Import direct ($80). Any of these better than another or are they all the same just reboxed?

 

Actually, I did not end up purchasing on - for the time being. I believe my problem is from a different component. However I think any aftermarket ig switch may be a crap shot anyway. If it really came down to making a choice, I would probably give serious consideration to hitting a junkyard and getting one from a vehicle there - assuming they still have the key for it. A inconvenience having to have two keys (ignition and door) but I put more faith in a used OEM part (in this situation) that the wilde west elements of the electrical aftermarket. Good luck

 

The "split" you mention is likely a model year change-over thing. In the new vehicle business (at least as far as it goes in the US) vehicles that are completed from July forward are usually the next year's model, e.g. Made July 1991 is likely a 1992 model. If you have specific info that the switch fits a vehicle made in June 1991, it's most likely going to be correct for a 1991 model.
The only other difference I found is a difference between US built trucks and Japanese built trucks, a difference in plug format and pin arrangement. But that difference doesn't show up in parts lists until the 1993 model year.

Don't bother with the cheap stuff on Ebay for this. As I mentioned in a previous post in this thread, SPM (Standard Motor Products), Wells (WVE) and Beck-Arnley are good quality. I hear nothing but problems about Import Direct parts, especially electrical items.
I checked on the NAPA Echlin switch and it's a reboxed/rebranded SMP switch; they are exactly the same, so it's likely that they are just boxed by SMP for NAPA. The higher price is just for the NAPA brand name. The picture of the part is exactly the same on the NAPA website and on any other parts site that shows the SMP switch.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/shop/r...itch/348251802
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=4700&jsn=677

I've used SMP replacement electrical parts in my '78 and so far after 4 years, no issues whatsoever. Same with an electric fuel pump from Wells.

 

@PinkFlydxx The ignition switch is not key dependent. Meaning, the switch itself is separate from the key cylinder; they are two separate parts. You can remove your original key cylinder, change the ignition switch out, and reinstall your original key cylinder. No need to have two different keys.

 

Right on, thanks for the replies and comparisons.

As far as other the other supplier I mentioned, that would be WORLDPAC, a wholesale supply house shops around here use. I forgot to mention their available product brand is SERVICETECH at a price of $125-150. The cheap Ebay item was actually out of stock but listed. I'll do a physical comparison today of few different ones (NAPA, Orielly's, the Servicetech ) and see what I feel like is the best and give it a shot and report back here.

As far as the main issue I've had is the dreaded "click" I bypassed the switch with something straight to the battery and it cranked over well and started, so I know I can move the truck at least.

Over the years, I have knocked on and also replaced starters which has "fixed" the problem, but eventually the root issue will resurface. I don't know what's going, on my best guess is the ignition switch so thats were im at right now.