Shopping for a good Airflow Meter
#1
Shopping for a good Airflow Meter
I've called every auto parts store in town and nobody has my airflow meter (aka Mass Airflow meter or sensor)
However there are dozens of "brands" of them on ebay and I'm wondering if anybody can recommend me one. There are so many brands I'm beginning to wonder if they aren't all made in the same factory somewhere on the other side of the planet, but if anybody can point me to one they've had good luck with I would appreciate it very much. Denso has stopped making them. Thanks much
However there are dozens of "brands" of them on ebay and I'm wondering if anybody can recommend me one. There are so many brands I'm beginning to wonder if they aren't all made in the same factory somewhere on the other side of the planet, but if anybody can point me to one they've had good luck with I would appreciate it very much. Denso has stopped making them. Thanks much
#5
Giving info on your vehicle is a must, and if searching for a specific component giving us the oem part number is gold.
that said, if it were me, I wouldn’t buy any of them. I’d go to a pull-a-part yard and get one that has never been cut open.
that said, if it were me, I wouldn’t buy any of them. I’d go to a pull-a-part yard and get one that has never been cut open.
#6
Thanks, I was meaning to finish my signature. Its a 94 with a 22RE. Fully rebuilt with LCE parts. 90,000 on the rebuild and 295,000 on the vehicle. I figured since I was in the 86-95 section I could skip it for now
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#8
Well, Amazon has the easiest return policy. I'd probably go that route until I could locate an unmolested used one.
Personally, i avoid parts these days marketed as reman unless the actual manufacturer did it(like Denso)
Personally, i avoid parts these days marketed as reman unless the actual manufacturer did it(like Denso)
#9
I ordered a Bayword from a small seller on EBay, in NJ, $95. It’s supposedly all new parts- probably from China, assembled in USA. Supposedly. There were other sellers with the same brand. I will let you know how it works out. It’s got a 60 day return policy. Didn’t see a warranty but might have overlooked it. There were several on EBay from China that had one and two year warranty but I question how useful those are. I don’t use Amazon, I’m a descendant of the American Revolution which was fought to eradicate corporate tyranny
Last edited by Freewheel; Feb 27, 2024 at 09:04 AM.
#11
really? you aren't aware that there were multiple engines available in that time period, with differences between years for the same engine? no wonder your posts are scattershot.
Last edited by wallytoo; Feb 27, 2024 at 11:26 AM.
#15
in point of fact, the 22250-35050 doesn't appear to be specified for the 3.0 of any year. so, who doesn't know what?
#16
[QUOTE=toyoda addict;52492995]That's a part that would be oem or nothing for me.
I'm probably going to need to go to a carb anyway at some point, for some reason or other. This post has been up for a few days now and nobody has yet had anything to say in the way of first hand experience, good or bad, with the Chinese aftermarket AFM's of any year make or model. So I don't have much evidence one way or the other on whether the Chinese ones are reliable.
I know they all wear out eventually. Mine didn't even make it to 200,000 miles because I bought it with 195,000 on it, and after driving it ten years I cut that top open, and found the arm thats supposed to close the circuit to the fuel pump was hooked over behind the points that close that circuit. In other words, someone had permanently disabled that entire thing, the arm could not move, and I drove it like that for 90,000 miles. The main arm has two functions, one to vary the voltage going to the ECM, and the other to open and close the fuel pump circuit. I think it goes to a relay actually. So the fuel pump had to have been on whenever the ignition switch was on, but I never did hear that pump running. Maybe I would I have had to be under the car to hear it. Anyway, I moved that circuit breaking arm, which is a brass wire, over where it belonged, where it could move, and vary the resistance, but it just made it run worse. So I did all the tests in the book and its toast. Point being, used ones aren't that great an option, seems to me.
I'm probably going to need to go to a carb anyway at some point, for some reason or other. This post has been up for a few days now and nobody has yet had anything to say in the way of first hand experience, good or bad, with the Chinese aftermarket AFM's of any year make or model. So I don't have much evidence one way or the other on whether the Chinese ones are reliable.
I know they all wear out eventually. Mine didn't even make it to 200,000 miles because I bought it with 195,000 on it, and after driving it ten years I cut that top open, and found the arm thats supposed to close the circuit to the fuel pump was hooked over behind the points that close that circuit. In other words, someone had permanently disabled that entire thing, the arm could not move, and I drove it like that for 90,000 miles. The main arm has two functions, one to vary the voltage going to the ECM, and the other to open and close the fuel pump circuit. I think it goes to a relay actually. So the fuel pump had to have been on whenever the ignition switch was on, but I never did hear that pump running. Maybe I would I have had to be under the car to hear it. Anyway, I moved that circuit breaking arm, which is a brass wire, over where it belonged, where it could move, and vary the resistance, but it just made it run worse. So I did all the tests in the book and its toast. Point being, used ones aren't that great an option, seems to me.
#17
rather than just admitting that you forgot to provide enough info, you doubled down. and doubled down again. there are at least 5 different AFMs that cover the years 1986 to 1995. this includes the 22re, the 22re-t, and the 3vze.
in point of fact, the 22250-35050 doesn't appear to be specified for the 3.0 of any year. so, who doesn't know what?
in point of fact, the 22250-35050 doesn't appear to be specified for the 3.0 of any year. so, who doesn't know what?
Yes I double down when someone claims to know when I forget and when I intentionally omit something. I omitted your required info because it didn't MATTER. it wasn't relevant to my question: Whats a good brand?
#18
When it comes to whether or not a part will fit various Toyota engines I wouldn't rely on eBay sellers. They get application wrong constantly. Especially those in wrecking yards selling used parts. that's why i always recommend someone here to go look up their part number first online
The bad thing about using a part that wasn't originally designated for your vehicle is if it doesn't remedy the problem. You could have misdiagnosed the problem and the airflow meter was never the issue. Or the replacement airflow meter is broken, too. Or the meter works, just not with that ecu.
As far as most parts made in China/Taiwan/ Korea the quality is dubious at best. They struggle to make a decent brake rotor or drum, so venturing off to make electrical components just isn't in their wheel house.
Heck, one of the single worst parts I got for my 1987 was a Taiwan bumper filler for the front bumper. And keep in mind, they didn't have to invent anything, they simply had to copy someone else's design. And we're basically talking a piece of sheet metal. The curve was wrong, the bolt holes didn't line up with the bumper, it was just a mess.
Whether or not you feel the info is needed, you should always list specifics of your vehicle in a post, regardless if it's for locating parts or diagnostic help. I do, and heck, my info is in my signature already. That way everyone knows what vehicle I'm talking about from the beginning. People that give good info from the beginning usually keep the thread updated and feedback on how things are going. Nothing is more disappointing than those that ask a question, get help, and never respond on how it worked out.
The two hardest vehicles to research parts for bitd was the Corolla and the truck. Toyota had SO many variations for each. When we were on microfiche most vehicles had four fiche for parts look up. Broken up like you see on EPC-data. com(engine, powertrain, body, electrical). The truck had seven fiche for the same four categories
As far as answering your question, i felt i did. i think anyone selling one marketed as 'reman" is grossly overstating what they did. I think any new one, regardless of the vendor, is going to be a Chinese knock off of questionable value. If you go that route get the best return policy with the lowest price. I still think a used one that's never had the top cut open is the way to go. 99% of the time people cut it open they had no idea of what's inside, how it worked, and probably misdiagnosed their root issue in the first place. Then they did a bad job resealing, allowing moisture to enter.
The bad thing about using a part that wasn't originally designated for your vehicle is if it doesn't remedy the problem. You could have misdiagnosed the problem and the airflow meter was never the issue. Or the replacement airflow meter is broken, too. Or the meter works, just not with that ecu.
As far as most parts made in China/Taiwan/ Korea the quality is dubious at best. They struggle to make a decent brake rotor or drum, so venturing off to make electrical components just isn't in their wheel house.
Heck, one of the single worst parts I got for my 1987 was a Taiwan bumper filler for the front bumper. And keep in mind, they didn't have to invent anything, they simply had to copy someone else's design. And we're basically talking a piece of sheet metal. The curve was wrong, the bolt holes didn't line up with the bumper, it was just a mess.
Whether or not you feel the info is needed, you should always list specifics of your vehicle in a post, regardless if it's for locating parts or diagnostic help. I do, and heck, my info is in my signature already. That way everyone knows what vehicle I'm talking about from the beginning. People that give good info from the beginning usually keep the thread updated and feedback on how things are going. Nothing is more disappointing than those that ask a question, get help, and never respond on how it worked out.
The two hardest vehicles to research parts for bitd was the Corolla and the truck. Toyota had SO many variations for each. When we were on microfiche most vehicles had four fiche for parts look up. Broken up like you see on EPC-data. com(engine, powertrain, body, electrical). The truck had seven fiche for the same four categories
As far as answering your question, i felt i did. i think anyone selling one marketed as 'reman" is grossly overstating what they did. I think any new one, regardless of the vendor, is going to be a Chinese knock off of questionable value. If you go that route get the best return policy with the lowest price. I still think a used one that's never had the top cut open is the way to go. 99% of the time people cut it open they had no idea of what's inside, how it worked, and probably misdiagnosed their root issue in the first place. Then they did a bad job resealing, allowing moisture to enter.
Last edited by Jimkola; Feb 28, 2024 at 06:56 AM.
#19
It may not appear that way to you but to the vendors on Ebay the 22250-35050 definitely DOES apply for some of the 3.0s. Check it out.
Yes I double down when someone claims to know when I forget and when I intentionally omit something. I omitted your required info because it didn't MATTER. it wasn't relevant to my question: Whats a good brand?
Yes I double down when someone claims to know when I forget and when I intentionally omit something. I omitted your required info because it didn't MATTER. it wasn't relevant to my question: Whats a good brand?
buy a chinese knock-off and have at it.
#20
Well at least we have established that if I had given the VIN number and paint code there still is no new MAFS that anybody on here would recommend.
I'll say this though about Chinese parts, and i hope nobody takes it to mean I have any firm opinion on that country's products in general AT ALL. When I was rebuilding my 22RE 9 years ago my machinist recommended I buy a Chinese head rather than pay him to rebuild the one I had, not because he couldn't do it-- he had rebuilt a 22R for me once, including line-boring all the journals, resurfacing, etc. He's a top notch machinist. So I got one from LCE, and I still don't know if it was Chinese or what, because I asked them on the phone where it was from and they told me they didn't know. Probably either Japan or China, they said. It sure was not from the US or Germany. Well, I've got 90,000 miles on that head now, and that engine still runs like brand new, except for the tuneup issue. Uses not one drop of oil
I'll say this though about Chinese parts, and i hope nobody takes it to mean I have any firm opinion on that country's products in general AT ALL. When I was rebuilding my 22RE 9 years ago my machinist recommended I buy a Chinese head rather than pay him to rebuild the one I had, not because he couldn't do it-- he had rebuilt a 22R for me once, including line-boring all the journals, resurfacing, etc. He's a top notch machinist. So I got one from LCE, and I still don't know if it was Chinese or what, because I asked them on the phone where it was from and they told me they didn't know. Probably either Japan or China, they said. It sure was not from the US or Germany. Well, I've got 90,000 miles on that head now, and that engine still runs like brand new, except for the tuneup issue. Uses not one drop of oil
Last edited by Freewheel; Mar 1, 2024 at 06:35 AM.







