Now, I (Sometimes) enjoy working on my truck.

I also have a passion for video and photography

So I set out to create a YouTube channel dedicated to repairing and upgrading my rig.


The first video I produced was a complete engine tune up for the 3VZE.
Air filter, spark plugs, spark wires, dist.cap & rotor, oil change.
Nothing too serious.

Using an CANON Rebel T4i to shoot along with a RODE mic and an old tripod I sourced at the local Goodwill, I filmed and released my first video in Spring of 2023.

Its my most viewed video on YouTube.


Starting with an oil and filter change. Use Toyota filter #90915-YZZD1







Dorman 696-703




I then had to remove the upper air intake as it had dry rotted away to the point that a piece of itself got logged into the TB, causing my truck to accelerate out of control.
Almost gave a heart attack. I replaced this piece with a part from Dorman Part #696-703.

Valve cover gasket
The valve cover gaskets were also leaking, so I went ahead and replaced them as well. The top of the intake plenum was the most difficult part to remove, but follow the video and you can see that its just a mattter of flipping it over and out of the way.

After that just carefully remove the 10mm bolts holding the valve covers.







At this point I also recommend changing out the PCV valve and breather tube. It will most likley be dry rotted.

Mine broke in two when I tried to pull it off. Clean up the surfaces of the valve cover gasket area with brake cleaner and be sure to apply a dab of FIPG to the front corners of the heads. They're known to leak prematurley from there. No need to oil the gaskets either.
Torque the bolts back in the correct order using about 48 in-lbf.

Valve cover gaskets #11213-65010
PCV grommet #12204A
PCV #12204-6510
PCV hose #12261-65010



Getting the spark plugs out was tricky. It requires two extensions and a swivel socket to get at the rear spark plugs.
Spark plugs K16R-U plugs.
Spark wires #9091921528



K16R-U


Cap & rotor were all replaced as well with Toyota / DENSO parts. NOTE HOW THE ROTOR IS POSITIONED.
I think on newer models the rotor can only be mounted one way, but ensure its on there correctly.

O ring # 19127-61240
rotor # 1910270160
Cap. # 1910165040


O-ring & Rotor






After all that, the engine just purrs....

 

Changing out the master & slave cylinder along with the clutch line




Changing out the Master Cylinder is pretty straight forward:

1. Pull out the lower dash and remove the pin that holds the metal dowel connecting the MC and the clutch pedal.
2. Push the pin out. If you have trouble removing or inserting it afterwards, It may be because you need to readjust the Clutch pedal height. Look on the left under the dash, there should be a bolt that is used to move the pedal up or down depending on what you need.
3. Next remove the brake line from the MC, and cap it with a vaccum line.
4. Remove the two bolts holding the MC in place.

Aisin MC #CMT-005


install is reverse of removal. Torque for the nuts is 15-21 ft lbs









Next I removed the clutch hose.

Seesm easy enough, but in reality, its a real PIA. Its held in place by metal tabs that have to be punched out. then you can remocve the upper hose. Theres hardly any space on the bottom side of the clutch hose mount near the exhaust.
I had the bright idea of cutting the hose and using a socket wrench to take it off.






punch out the metal tab and cut the hose and use a socket to remove the lower hose from the bracket.





Marlin Crawler clutch hose MCCL- 631...Its pretty, and better. Probably.


Installation is the reverse of removal.

 

Installing the KC Slimlites on the front bumper.



With the front bush guard installed


I bought an old pair of vintage KC Slimlites off eBay. I had a friend who was an electrician help me out. I'll post the link to the YouTube video soon.
This brushguard was EXTRMEMLY hard to find. I grabbed it during a trip to Alabama to visit a friend. Dude had it for a good price.