Help 22 re
#1
Help 22 re
I need help I can't get my 22re to start and I've been working on it for 4 weeks I replaced the timing chain to where the mark on the crank shaft meets the sprocket it was pointing strait down and on the to by the cam that mark was pointing up I aslo matched it to the different chain pieces put the distributor back on where it's pointing to #1 pickup on TDC. And there's room on both sides of the distributor to advance it or retard it how ever I can't get it to start aslo it worth saying I accidentally hooked up a coolant line to a vacuum line on the efi when I replaced new injector it was hooked up to the power steering and filled with coolant I blew out the lines and took spark plugs wiped them off and dry fired engine to help push out coolant and took a blow gun to all parts effected including cylinders I did put hoses back where they belong but I still can't get it to start I've also checked all fuses and it's all good everywhere aslo the Maf is working cuz I can hear the cold start go off when I push that door in the intake by the air filter. Aslo this thing does not have a vacuum advanced on the distributor and the pistons have been board 40 over it was running before I took it all apart but it would not go over 45 and was leaking coolant out of the seat hole on water pump so I was going to replace it but a bolt broke and one thing lead to another witch is why I had to replace timing chain cover and since I was already there I just did everything elese please help
#3
Registered User
When you say you can hear the cold start go off when you "push that door", I'm not sure what you mean, the cold start injector fires when you are cranking the engine, and it is controlled by signals from the cold start timer (which is really just a temperature switch) and potentially from the ECU (this ECU signal to CSI I believe is model year dependent). So I don't believe the CSI has anything at all to do with the vane in the AFM.
What year is your vehicle?
Are you sure that at TDC, your distributor rotor is pointing at number 1?
By any chance, did you remove the intake manifold during all this? And if so, did you remember to put back the ground wire? Without that ground wire, I don't think your injectors will fire.
If the above things are ok, then I think you really should check for fuel, not by "hearing the CSI" because I don't think you can hear the CSI with the engine cranking, I would pull it out of intake and stick it in jar and verify that fuel is being sprayed while cranking. Probably want to remove coil wire for this test so engine does not try to actually start. Other people have done this and can probably tell you how much fuel to expect.
If you have fuel, then I would check for spark. Plenty of ways to do that, if you have an inductive timing light, or one of those spark checkers, or even the shadetree way of holding the sparkplug next to engine ground and watching it spark...this last method can shock you, so I'd do one of the first 2.
What year is your vehicle?
Are you sure that at TDC, your distributor rotor is pointing at number 1?
By any chance, did you remove the intake manifold during all this? And if so, did you remember to put back the ground wire? Without that ground wire, I don't think your injectors will fire.
If the above things are ok, then I think you really should check for fuel, not by "hearing the CSI" because I don't think you can hear the CSI with the engine cranking, I would pull it out of intake and stick it in jar and verify that fuel is being sprayed while cranking. Probably want to remove coil wire for this test so engine does not try to actually start. Other people have done this and can probably tell you how much fuel to expect.
If you have fuel, then I would check for spark. Plenty of ways to do that, if you have an inductive timing light, or one of those spark checkers, or even the shadetree way of holding the sparkplug next to engine ground and watching it spark...this last method can shock you, so I'd do one of the first 2.
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