I am having a heck of a time trying to figure out a CEL on a 1992 3.0 4runner.

To give a backstory I bought it from a woman non-running low miles and clean interior it had been sitting for some time. She said it blew a head gasket and her ex husband had replaced them but didn't finish putting it together...heads and lower intake was on it.

I have since adjusted the valve lashing, new injectors, injector wire connectors, changed plugs, wires, power steering pump, and finished putting the upper intake plenum and throttle body on as well as fuel filter and other fluids. Surprisingly it starts right up and seems to idle fine however the CEL is still lit and the shifter is locked in park. The oil pressure doesn't register but I removed the sending unit and hooked a gauge so I know it's getting pressure.

My issue is that when I try to jump the E1 and Te1 pins the CEL just stays solid and does not flash or do anything.

I have continuity to E1 and negative battery as well as power to B+. With the key on Te1 is 12.5v so I know it's getting power however, with the key on and pins jumped... negative to W I get nothing. The next step is going to jump the wire from the ECU purple/white wire to frame ground and see if it works that way. When I opened the side up the ECU was not bolted down. Does it ground on the car there? Any ideas on why it won't flash and diagnose? Could it be a bad ECU? The shifter is stuck in park and I havent checked ​​​​to see what's wrong yet but could the two be related? Tail lights and fuses work, i was thinking it might be the solenoid and was going to try swapping it out with a parts vehicle. (95 3.0 2wd). Any other ideas? I've read that if the CEL stays on when jumping the pins it's "very bad" yet I have yet to figure out what that actually means.


Thanks!

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Take the lid off the ecu and inspect the circuit board. I kinda doubt the ecu has failed unless it's suffered external cause, and that should be visible on the board.
There's other culprits regarding the shifter lock. I'm struggling to remember the main suspects, but I'm sure others can lead you in the right direction. did that year have the shift override?

 

I pulled the ECU out last night looks brand new. It does have overdrive....I pulled the shift lock solenoid out as well and tried testing it on a 12v battery it did nothing. I was going to try swapping it out from my parts car to see if thats the culprit.

 

I don't think grounding that purple wire is a good idea until you review a schematic.

 

It would be the Violet/White wire but if E1 has continuity and Te1 has 12v I don't think its going to help at all. I was going to check to see if it was a wiring problem to the diagnostic port or if its just not working from the computer. I cant find anything in the manual about jumping them but no flashes.