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Hello everyone. I have a 1986 toyota pickup 4 speed and I am having alot of issues due to prior owner neglect. That is always the case. First off I'll run thru the major issues. It is carburetor so what happens is if I drive it one day. The next day I will have to keep cranking it in order for it to finally turn on and even then it has a rough idle and will turn off three more times before it stays on. If I press the gas pedal all the way it will like start to stall so I have to press the pedal slightly until it revs up enugh for me to shift. Also if anyone can post a picture of what a stock motor looks like i am trying to figure out what parts go where because my engine bay is a mess. There is what I believe to be a module loose and I jave no idea what it is and I can't replace it because I don't know where to look. It has three different settings and it's round and black.
Yeah, that's not a Toyota part. Too many words in English to be Japanese
If that cruise doesn't work I'd take it out. Sure would clean up your engine bay.
I hate rogue wires laying everywhere. It's a bad look.
I would start with pics of what that unit goes to and we can go from there. Your fuel issue could be many things, have you checked the fuel filter, plugs, cap and rotor etc, all these things should be gone over anyway. How long was the truck sitting before you acquired it? What is your range of technical skills?
I would start with simple maintenance items that have been neglected before you pull out the parts cannon
Do you pump the gas pedal 3 times before you try to start it? That's the "right way" according to the owner's manual. It sets the choke for the current temperature, and gets some raw fuel down the carb throat to give the engine something to run on until the fuel pump gets going full bore.
Just wondering, given your description.
Like the others mentioned, work on the basics first. Oil and filter change, spark plugs and wires, distributor cap and rotor, fuel filter, PCV valve and it's grommet, set the valve lash, air filter change out, coolant and radiator hoses (3 of those), etc, etc.
THEN worry about the other troubles. You may find that just the regular maintenance takes care of many of your troubles.
Ok so all good suggestions. I have done oil change. And air filter. So next step I will dig into plugs and wires and maybe spray all moving parts that might be stuck with a little of penitrating oil to free them up. And I did not k ow the right way was to prime it with three pedal pushes. So no I wasn't doing that lol next time I will try it. And ok so as far as that module goes I will try and get more details pictures of where it goes and what it goes to. It's really odd and I have never seen it. And yeah I will definitely start replacing plugs wires ETC and see if that hesitation goes away when I stomp the gas. Also does anyone know what motor can I swap into it and transmission so I can have more oomph to it.becaise this truck is slow as a snail. And I am pretty automotively inclined. I am a heavy equipment mechanic. I have swapped motors and transmissions in Hondas before lol
I'd get the 22R dialed in as much as possible before pondering a complete engine swap. It'll never be a rocket, but treated right it'll never let you down. And properly running that engine doesn't hesitate.
Get oem distributer cap, rotor, wire set and stock ND sparkplugs. Never let anyone upsell you on their platinum or iridium they have on sale. You can find less expensive parts on other facets of the vehicle, but I wouldn't do it on these parts. Personally, I do oem/Denso/Aisin/Yazaki on everything I can, but that's me.
Check valve clearance. Replace the valve cover gasket, 1/2 moons, and the four grommets. A bit of sealant on the 1/2 moons will help them from seeping. When tightening down the valve cover use a torque wrench(44 inch pounds. NOT FOOT)If you over tighten it'll lift the valve train up enough to alter your valve clearances and make them clatter.
If the vehicle had been sitting for a long time it may help to run a few tanks of Chevron through the system. The additives Chevron uses may help to clean out any varnish. Toyota had very good carbs. Worth getting to work right as opposed to replacing
Post more pictures of the engine bay. One of the battery would be good. And if that cruise control is inoperative I'd pull it out.
I'm sure others here have additional thoughts. Embrace the fun of bringing this vehicle back to its former glory.
I can speak very positively on the quality of the 22R engine, including it's carb. I have an 87 2WD, 5spd MT, pickup truck, I bought in '88, with 30,000 miles on it. It's still running very well, and the carb is as factory original as could be. Never been rebuilt, only had the idle adjusted during the annual tune up the truck gets. The engine, drive train, other than u joints, and so forth, are all factory original. After 35+ years, that aint bad.
I am not a macho type drag racer, squealing the tires when leaving a stop light. It will in 1st and 2nd, BTW. Having said that, I've had a few incidents with more modern vehicles, where we were both heading for the reduction to a single lane from the two lanes at the stop light.. I may not win, always, but I can usually force the other guy to back off, since we arrive at the reduction to one lane at the same time.
The 22R isn't designed to be a speed demon, like American Muscle Cars, but it can certainly hold it's own, when it's working right, in situations like getting on the freeway, and so on.
Good luck! Keep us up to date on how things go.
Pat☺
See LCEperformance.com for the oomph you’re looking for
Lceperformance.com
They have everything you need to hot rod your Yota!
Weber carburetor/ light weight flywheel/ under drive pulleys and your sure to get some satisfaction out of the 22R.
As far as what you described, I would replace the fuel pump, filter and try to find a used Weber carburetor or new one if you plan to go all the way with reviving the engine.