Because it explains why I’ve always felt my brakes didn’t have the same feel as my dad’s original owner 86 extra cab 4x4 or my old 84 4runner.
After seeing Wallytoo’s post on T4r.org about his LSPV being frozen, I started wondering if mine was in the same condition. Tonight I got under it and proved it was. So thanks, Wallytoo!
Here’s what it looked like after the rubber boot was removed.




That center piston is held up by a spring and was frozen. I took a pick tool and cleaned around it, sprayed it with WD40 and grabbed it with a small pair of vice grips and was able to get it moving again. I still wonder if the piston should travel more than about 1/8”. I had my wife come step on the brakes and could see it move under pressure. Tomorrow I’ll clean it up further with Brakleen and PB Blaster and test drive it. I guess i will keep it as-is if I think it feels correct.
Option #2- buy a cheap one off Ebay for $36
Option #3- buy a Toyota one for $190.
Either way, I’ll bleed the system for good measure.

 

When they start seeing this kind of age if they live in areas that see winter Chemicals most no longer work.

All The 4x4 Toyota`s they had all failed before I got the vehicle I just got used to how the brakes worked and drove accordingly not like we had this type of valve in my youth.

You always have the option of a manual valve near the master cylinder.

 

whoa! long time since you’ve been “seen”.

to be sure, although mine was frozen, it was not as cruddy looking as mel’s. in fact, i couldn’t see any corrosion at all. i’ll see how long it works going forward.

 

After 25 years of being on the my 92 pickup, my LSPV started leaking. The rubber boot was holding water, and I think that is what caused it to fail.

 

This seems to be my situation too…it’s not leaking, yet. But after seeing a video where a guy took one apart, I wonder what it looks like inside. I may just take it apart.

 

I would definitely go with option #3.
After all, how many years, and miles, did the original last? I think if you calculate that out, the price for an OEM Toyota LSPV is actually pretty low per year, or per mile. All three of my trucks have their factory LSPV's still on.

I DID learn a good thing to do to them about once a year, or there-abouts. Take the bar off the axle, fully actuate the valve a few times by using the bar, then reconnect it. Then, bleed the brakes normally. It breaks loose all the gnrrr that likes to build up in them, so when you bleed the brakes, it comes out. I discovered this when I took my 87 4Runner in to my mechanics shop to try and find a noise it made in 4Wd one winter. He put it up on the lift, with the tires dangling down at full extension, we figured out the noise, and put it back down again. The brakes were like new all of a sudden! I think it was the first time the suspension had been extended like that since I'd been off-roading around Yuma, 15 years ago, plus.
So, I did the bar thing with my pickup, and lo and behold, IT felt totally different too! Just like when I bought it a year old, back in 88.

So yeah, I would definitely go with the OEM valve. All just my opinion, though.
Pat☺

From now on, every couple years, when I bleed the brakes, I plan on actuating the LSPV first. Keep it like it was new

 

well, i agree. And I think I found the best deal on an OEM Aisin one possible through a Japanese company, part shipping from UAE.
US $113.88 shipped to USA
p/n 47910-26040.
https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/4791026040

After reading reviews on the cheap ones, some leaking right out of the box, i remember going through that with some Made in China wheel cylinders, and decided i don’t have the tolerance for that.

 

I’ve used Amayama several times.
I got the boot and bushing kit for my LSPV thru them 04477-60010
it replaces a lot of the nuts, bolts, spacers, bushings and boot for the valve, but also where it attaches to the third member.
I think it was like $35.00. Way cheaper than here.

 

Tonight i got under there again, cleaned it up a bit more and sprayed and loosened everything that will need to come apart when the new one arrives. So it will be a quick, fun job. I love that my truck is not rusty underneath. So different than what i grew up wrenching on.

 

I took mine apart awhile back ago. They really are easy to disassemble and clean. Pretty basic design once you open up.

 

I was just going to offer you mine for the cost of shipping. I'm building a crawler out of my 86 Xtra Cab and don't need it. I have the whole works in great shape. I'm in DRY Arizona.

 

Thanks very much. I’m sure you can get some money for it on ebay!

 

I’ll take mine apart after i get the new one. There is a thread on IH8MUD but I don’t think seal kits are available for it. I guess you could use a cheap one for parts. There seems to be about 2 seals and three o-rings, maybe…

 

The failure on mine was odd. Sometimes the pedal would feel like there was a notch in it as I pressed down. Sometimes, not always. Anyway, replacing the LSPV with a new Toyota part cured the failure, and it wasn't *that* awful to bleed. Figuring the original lasted 33 years with 8 of those in salt country, I think the new one is a lifetime replacement for a California truck.

 

Got the new valve from Dubai, UAE. Took about 12 days. I saved about $65 on the best price i could find domestically.

 

Everything came apart well on the old one, but i bathed myself in brake fluid as all the lines drained.
After putting new one up, i decided to build an electrically powered brake bleeder because i had a vac pump
taking up space in the garage with no use.



Wide open, the pump pulls 25in HG which is too much and results in a lot of turbulence in the catch jar and fluid making its way to the pump. So I had to put a valve on it and trim it back to about 12 in HG. Got the tubing from Lowe’s and my first two catch jars were failures…plastic one collapsed immediately, then pickle jar lid could not seal well enough because i deformed it making the two holes. Finally found a
canning jar that worked and put that in a plastic cashew container for protection. (Wife immediately comes looking for cashews…)

Result- it sucks lots of brake fluid and i ran out during the bleed operation. But, it also sucks air past the bleeder threads, so you keep seeing bubbles. I ultimately got my son to the garage and went around again with the tried and true two person method i grew up with. Much better, after your helper stops pushing the clutch while telling you “the brake is still going to the floor.”😡😡😡

 

For fun i took apart the old valve. Lots of rusty goo in there. I’m glad i did not try to clean and reuse it.
Pedal feels less hard now, but i still need to remove the rear drums, dump the dust out of there and readjust the rear brakes before i’m completely finished.


Yuck.

 

Really thorough Toyota brake video if you have the time. LSPV operation is shown around 11:20

 

I bought the bushing and boot kit. I kept the old boot that goes over the lspv since it was still ok. If you need lmk.

Most of my amayama orders come out of Japan, but I’ve had two out of Dubai. Good service.

 

A while back I helped a guy on here do the math and such to upgrade his brakes. He had an 87ish Toyota motor home, one of the larger ones with the upgraded brakes. Long story short, the manual brake proportioning valve made a massive difference, but he wanted *good* brakes, not just good enough, so we looked into upgrading calipers etc and ultimately came up with using a T100 brake booster, non ABS (the ABS one is too big to fit). He said he bolted right in and the dual diaphram was good for something like +50-60% extra brake assistance by the booster, and deleting the valve in the back he said was a major improvement. He got to the point he could lock the front tires up on a gravel road. I only guessed the T100 brake booster would work, just because the drive line is based on the older pickups, those are a key factor in a lot of things. They are also the middle child for newer engines + old school drive lines for the transfer case.

Anyway, figured I'd give my 2 cents worth. For a normal pickup, the valve might be a good thing to keep and have functioning so the rear tires can't lockup, but the brake booster might be a solid upgrade, atleast it is for the 2wd trucks, the 4x4 ones I think came with a small dual diaphragm booster, so it might be +1in in diameter bigger vs 1in + switching from single to dual (the second stage adds something like 30% or something like that if I remember right).

My T100 has pretty meh brakes, it's the non-ABS truck. I've thought about getting the ABS brake booster and maybe deleting the valve in the back. Having too good of brakes is better than not good enough.