Hi guys, first post here.



I got a 92’ Toyota mini rv with a 3vze around 130k miles few years ago. Been full time living on it mostly in Baja without any issues but my luck changed in my last visit to the DMV last week.



Long story short, I failed smog check twice with HC numbers exceeding the maximum 4 times resulting in a gross polluter.


After failed smog I started to inspect the vehicle by myself and found CEL throwing 25 and 26 codes. Went to O’ Reilly and bought a Denso o2 sensor as I read here that can be a possible dead sensor. Did few miles and the light went back but this time only code 25 came on.



As I started to smell gas when I was driving I found on the manual that the charcoal canister can be clogged, did the testing and was good.



I read as well that a cylinder not working can cause fuel not burned going through the exhaust so I started to pull spark plug caps one by one found the #2 cylinder not working. Went back to O’ Reilly and borrowed a compression tester, pulled spark plug #2 and got 30psi, also pulled spark plug #5 and got 45psi. The rest of the spark plugs were hard to remove it without tools. Not sure how accurate are these results as I didn’t remove all spark plugs as the manual states and also I pushed the gas pedal all the way with my foot and maybe I should blocked the throttle wire to be sure that was wide open?



Today I went to 3 different shops here in San Diego, one called The Truck Shop that was recommended here and without seeing the truck the told me that I need a valve job and it’ll took 3 days and $3000, I almost cried.

The other shop suggested to replace engine, I almost cried even more. And the third shop told me that I need a new head gasket and it can be around $1800 and between 1 and 2 weeks. I told him that I called Toyota dealership and they told me that my truck got the head gasket recall done in 94’.



On some thread on this forum I read a guy saying that he had the head the head gasket done and still missing one cylinder and fixed his problem replacing a non working injector.



Can anyone here help me? I’m traveling around the states with my 1y/o baby and wife and I need to fix my truck to pass smog and get the current tags to keep going.

I’m a bit lost and desperate, not sure what to do and how to proceed.

To clarify my truck is running good, with a good idle and not smoking or having any ticking or rattling sound, just a bit uneven due to be running with 5 cylinders.


Thank you!

 

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What is your ignition timing set at? Some people turn it up to 13-15 to get a little extra power from the motor. Stock is 10*. Not sure if it will help, but work trying.

Code 25 is lean correct? So I would also check and inspect the AFM and TPS and check the intake for any cracks. Its not always an 02 sensor.

3.0s are know for head gaskets, it was changed almost 30 years ago, it could be time again.

The valves are also a PITA to adjust on these engines, hence the high price tag. unlike the 22re where you can adjust a screw, the 3zve uses little pucks at different thickness to adjust clearance.

The low compression is the scariest part of your post. 2 and 5 are on opposite sides, so that would be both head gaskets, and it would not run well being that low in 2 cylinders. I would try to get a good reading on all 6 cylinders.. you should be getting reading up in the 150s, and they should all be pretty close to each other. You could also try a leak down test to help identify if the valves need work.

I would look into putting in a 3.4 5vze engine out of a tacoma/4runner in truck before you spend too much on a 3zve.

 

Not to discredit the replies above, but many times a failed smog test is the result of a bad catalytic converter. If diagnostics don't find something definite, I'd try replacing that. It's worked for me in the past when I couldn't pass emissions (different vehicle, but worked nonetheless)

 

A method that would work as well, would be to register it someplace with no smog check. Then, there's no worry about smog checks. I've lived in two places like that so far in my life. Yuma, Az, and Klamath Falls, Or. It's one big worry off my mind. I just need the car, no checks, verifications, or anything like that.

There's probably a list online someplace that tells you the counties that don't require smog checks to register a vehicle. Some places may also only require smog checks on vehicles newer than a certain year. Something to consider.

I figured that if you were travelling around the US, going to someplace with no smog check might be a way around the whole situation. You still will need to get the engine fixed, no question, but at least you can get it registered, so you can drive it until you get it fixed, finally.

Good luck, however you decide to do things.
Pat☺

 

I'm stunned someone would recommend anything without first performing a diagnosis. That's beyond poor, and the type of behavior that'll get a visit by the Bureau of Automotive Repair eventually. I'm sure their paperwork and documentation is equally as lacking.

I agree that a leak down test is the next step after the compression test indicated a concern. The compression test is rather broad, the leak down will narrow down to a intake valve, exhaust valve, piston ring, or headgasket failure. Crucial knowledge to have before performing a teardown. If you have weak rings performing a valve job is beyond useless; it'll just make the weak rings even worse.

A new converter will improve the numbers, but to the point of passing will be debatable, and if you have a issue upstream from the converter the new converter will quickly become polluted. and aftermarket cats are NOTHING like OEM in terms of durability. So don't give up your factory cat unless it's truly bad.

Wherever you take your vehicle make sure they do the paperwork properly. It should have all the vehicle info properly inputted, along with your info. License#, VIN, mileage, etc.
This next point I can't stress enough
Make sure the reason being brought in is clearly stated, don't let them jump ahead. I see this all the time. Customer has a vehicle that runs rough and takes it in. They simply write "Tune up". This is bad paperwork. Tune up never fixes the issue, it still runs rough, and you've just wasted that money.
Your repair order should say something like, "Customer states vehicle failed smog test(see attached report). Perform compression test and leak down test and advise." All the diagnostic results should be listed on repair order in detail. Read it before signing. Point out anything incorrect or omitted. Get a copy after signing. A repair order is a legal document in court. Treat it as such.
This puts the burden of a proper diagnosis and repair recommendation on the repair shop. It's what you're paying for. It's what they're getting paid to do.