First, i bought what was supposed to be the replacement part number for the discontinued steering coupler from toyotapartsdeal.com.
Turns out not to work at all.
DO NOT BUY THIS P/N.



Wrong.

No u-joint.

Posts too small.

 

Then I discovered Toyhead Auto parts had one advertised. Www.toyheadauto.com
Its requires you to rebuild your existing coupler using the new disc,
It’s not exactly the same. The holes in the grommets are a bit larger in diameter than the bolts and the disc does not have the same metal reinforcement on the outer edge but it does work.

 

I used a c-clamp and a couple sockets to press the posts out and then back in through the new disc.

 

When you align the coupler back on the steering box input shaft splines, it is supposed to be oriented such that the locking bolt passes through a notched side of the input shaft. (Don't have a good photo of that)

Here it is back in place.



This is a shot of the shaft between the coupler and upper u-joint. The important thing to note is that there is a small, difficult to see area on the end of the shaft where there are no splines cut in. This area mates up with the split in the clamp. If you get the alignment right the locking bolts at the steering box and upper u-joint will be perpendicular to each other.

 

With the steering pointing straight ahead, top locking bolt is about horizontal under the shaft, while the other is about verticle.



I took a test drive after installing the coupler and it cleared up most of what i had attributed to “bump steer” before. It’s a very noticeable difference.