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Won't go into gear

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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 06:34 PM
  #1  
Pfloyd's Avatar
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From: Virginia
Won't go into gear

HELP!
I just pulled the transmission to fix a leaking rear main seal in my 86 22R with original 5 speed. I replaced the seal no problem (BTW, the bread trick worked to remove the pilot bearing. Who was the first to try that??) then went ahead and replaced the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, TO bearing & pilot bearing. Well now that it's all back together, it won't shift into any gear while running. Shifts fine when off. So I replaced the clutch MC and slave cyl. I bled the heck of it and still, will not go into gear. I can start it in gear but the clutch grabs and the truck immediately starts to move. I measured about 1/8th inch of travel on the release fork. I have no idea if that's normal or not. I really hate to pull the transmission again because honestly, I don't know what to look for. The real kicker is the truck shifted just fine and the old clutch worked before I took it apart and replaced everything. All because of a stupid oil leak...I'm pretty bummed out so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
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Old Mar 10, 2017 | 04:00 AM
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Sounds like your pressure plate is not releasing. Was the new TO bearing same thickness as the old one? How about the soft hydraulic line over to the slave cylinder? Sometimes those can get weak, might have been fine for your worn out old pressure plate fingers, but this fresh pressure plate might have enough spring tension that the line is bulging and you are losing a good amount of your slave cylinder travel.
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Old Mar 10, 2017 | 04:14 AM
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From: Virginia
Originally Posted by coryc85
Sounds like your pressure plate is not releasing. Was the new TO bearing same thickness as the old one? How about the soft hydraulic line over to the slave cylinder? Sometimes those can get weak, might have been fine for your worn out old pressure plate fingers, but this fresh pressure plate might have enough spring tension that the line is bulging and you are losing a good amount of your slave cylinder travel.
Thanks for the reply. The new TO bearing was the same thickness but did not seem to go all the way down on the bracket. I used a press to install it and it would get to a certain point and stop. It sticks out maybe 2 or 3mm beyond the old one and the top is tapered where the old bearing was flat. I didn't know there was a soft line on over to the slave cyl. All I can see is a hard line but I will give it a look. The fingers on the old plate were worn pretty good so what you said makes sense. Thanks!
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Old Mar 10, 2017 | 11:56 PM
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Red face

In this age you really need to compare old and new parts

Just what brand clutch kit did you go with that can make a big difference
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Old Mar 11, 2017 | 12:53 AM
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From: Anderson Missouri
Sounds to me like the Slave Cylinder may not be pushing the Shift Fork far enough. By carefully being under the truck, can you put more pressure on the shift fork and see if the truck will go into gear without it trying to lurch forward? Make sure you are laying in line with the drive shaft and you operate the shift fork. Have another person to start the truck and be on the brakes and ready to shut it off if it tries to roll forward or backward. Cranking the motor might be enough to see if it is the Shift Fork not being moved far enough and truck trying to move without starting it.
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Old Mar 11, 2017 | 06:02 PM
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From: Virginia
Hey everyone, thanks for the replies. I fixed it today! Turns out all I had to do was adjust the clutch master cylinder rod at the pedal. I shortened the rod by a little more than half the threads and it works perfectly and shifts great. Such a small adjustment yet it makes a huge difference in how the slave cylinder moves the clutch release fork. Thanks again for the help!
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