Pulling a 3.4L (Special Conditions) 2000 4Runner
#1
Pulling a 3.4L (Special Conditions) 2000 4Runner
I need a little advice on an engine removal from 2000 4Runner 4WD. I happened upon one of those "right place right time" deals Thursday. I picked up a 2000 model 4Runner 4WD SR5+ for $225. The truck had 150K on it when it was wrecked in the front. Other than missing the fan and radiator, the engine looks great. I have an 89 4Runner that I have been half way planning an engine swap on and a 2002 4runner that needed a few odds and ends so it will serve as a donor for both rigs.
The question I have is how would you guys pull the engine in this case. The fenders are gone along with everything else on the front of the truck. I can see the oil pan from straight in front of it. I am going to chop the entire truck where it sits so should I be following the FSM or do you guys have some more creative ideas. I'm trying to do this today because I have borrowed a picker that needs to be back at work on Monday. Here are my ideas so far.
Pull all of the wiring back to the ECM along with the engine.
Pull the engine/TC/Trans/TC all as a unit.
Remove the engine harness and then pull the engine.
Take a sawzall to everything between the frame rails and set it all on the ground. Then back what's left of the truck back away from the powertrain.
What would you guys do in my position? Here is a pic of what I'm working with.
The question I have is how would you guys pull the engine in this case. The fenders are gone along with everything else on the front of the truck. I can see the oil pan from straight in front of it. I am going to chop the entire truck where it sits so should I be following the FSM or do you guys have some more creative ideas. I'm trying to do this today because I have borrowed a picker that needs to be back at work on Monday. Here are my ideas so far.
Pull all of the wiring back to the ECM along with the engine.
Pull the engine/TC/Trans/TC all as a unit.
Remove the engine harness and then pull the engine.
Take a sawzall to everything between the frame rails and set it all on the ground. Then back what's left of the truck back away from the powertrain.
What would you guys do in my position? Here is a pic of what I'm working with.
#2
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Myself I like the last option !!
Although Cutting the frame with a Sawzall sounds like work I would use a 7" grinder with a Cut off wheel
The first thing I would do is remove the ECM unless your not planning to use this one .
Disconnect all the electrical connections
You do this stuff all the time only most of the stuff is just bigger
Fuel lines
Exhaust
Electrical Don`t forget the Oxygen Sensors are part of the engine harness
Driveshafts
Motor mounts and transmission mounts
I hope you have help ?/ I am sure you can do it yourself but two people or more is so much easier
Although Cutting the frame with a Sawzall sounds like work I would use a 7" grinder with a Cut off wheel
The first thing I would do is remove the ECM unless your not planning to use this one .
Disconnect all the electrical connections
You do this stuff all the time only most of the stuff is just bigger
Fuel lines
Exhaust
Electrical Don`t forget the Oxygen Sensors are part of the engine harness
Driveshafts
Motor mounts and transmission mounts
I hope you have help ?/ I am sure you can do it yourself but two people or more is so much easier
Last edited by wyoming9; Oct 1, 2016 at 03:08 PM.
#3
Thank you Wyoming. I've got all the wires from the ECM to the engine pulled through the firewall and tied down to the engine. Good point about the O2 wires. I need to make sure those are disconnected. I still need to take the fuel lines loose as well as the exhaust. I'm going to just pull the engine for now since I don't have a leveling bar. I have read that I need to remove the starter. Is that true? You said the dirvelines. Do I have to do that if I'm only pulling the engine? Like I said, it's all going to come out at some point so if that, or anything else will make pulling the engine easier, i'll sure do it.
Thanks for the feedback.
Thanks for the feedback.
#4
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Now the starter bolts into the bell housing so you kinda sort of need to remove it to get the engine out
I find at least the front driveshaft always seems to be in the way.
do you have access to get the top transmission bolts out don`t forget the torque converter I am guessing this is a Automatic
I find at least the front driveshaft always seems to be in the way.
do you have access to get the top transmission bolts out don`t forget the torque converter I am guessing this is a Automatic
#5
I got it out. I like to try things like this on my own as kind of a challenge. That being said, I will NEVER do it again by myself. I am worn completely out. I did take the drive shaft out since I had the needed tools in my hand. The starter was a chore. I never did get it out of there. I don't know how people change them out under normal conditions. It's laying on top of my diff right now. The torque converter bolts were a bit of a chore. I followed the FSM on that but realized that I didn't actually have to. The 6 tranny bolts were terrible to get to but still manageable. I think the thing that disappointed me the most was how there is no connector in the harness between the engine and transmission. When I got ready to pull it, I realized that I would have to get back under there and unhook all of the transmission wiring in order to keep the harness intact.
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
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