22 RE Mystery problem
#1
22 RE Mystery problem
Hi all (I just moved my thread here as I'm a newbie)
I have a mystery on my hands
I have a 1993 Toyota 2 wheel drive extra cab pickup 5 speed with the 22re motor. Great little truck!
Motor has about 170k on it Body 270K
Lately, and seemingly mostly when warmed up , it has started to stutter and miss almost like it's running out of gas when accelerating. The truck jerks and bucks some when it does this. the engine check line comes on and off.
I've looked at a few things so far:
-The one time I did a diagnostic check the engine check light flashed a engine coolant sensor code (22 I believe) and I pulled it and checked it but as I can't find the exact resistance it's supposed to measure hot and cold I'm not sure if it's good(it measured around 1.9-2k hot and maybe around 6 or 700 ohms cold)
I couldn't get the diagnostic to show that warning again after I reinstalled it????!
-mass airflow unit tests okay (I did both tests (2nd test involves moving the
paddle')
-tested the injectors with an ohm meter and listened to them. they seem okay.
- replaced the fuel filter
- New plugs, wires set, distributer cap, and rotor
- new air filter
- ran injector cleaner through the fuel
What I haven't done:
-I haven't set the TPS as i can't get the bottom &^%*&^% screw off
- I think I tested the O2 sensor at the diagnostic plug but I could be completely off my whack about that and likely it is untested.
- I haven't tested the fuel pressure as i haven't made the appropriate adapter yet
-I haven't checked the conveniently located fuel pump...haha
I suspect one of the sensors
Any ideas or insights???
I have a mystery on my hands
I have a 1993 Toyota 2 wheel drive extra cab pickup 5 speed with the 22re motor. Great little truck!
Motor has about 170k on it Body 270K
Lately, and seemingly mostly when warmed up , it has started to stutter and miss almost like it's running out of gas when accelerating. The truck jerks and bucks some when it does this. the engine check line comes on and off.
I've looked at a few things so far:
-The one time I did a diagnostic check the engine check light flashed a engine coolant sensor code (22 I believe) and I pulled it and checked it but as I can't find the exact resistance it's supposed to measure hot and cold I'm not sure if it's good(it measured around 1.9-2k hot and maybe around 6 or 700 ohms cold)
I couldn't get the diagnostic to show that warning again after I reinstalled it????!
-mass airflow unit tests okay (I did both tests (2nd test involves moving the
paddle')
-tested the injectors with an ohm meter and listened to them. they seem okay.
- replaced the fuel filter
- New plugs, wires set, distributer cap, and rotor
- new air filter
- ran injector cleaner through the fuel
What I haven't done:
-I haven't set the TPS as i can't get the bottom &^%*&^% screw off
- I think I tested the O2 sensor at the diagnostic plug but I could be completely off my whack about that and likely it is untested.
- I haven't tested the fuel pressure as i haven't made the appropriate adapter yet
-I haven't checked the conveniently located fuel pump...haha
I suspect one of the sensors
Any ideas or insights???
#2
Ok; first don't touch the TPS its set for a specific point, its either good or its bad. Now run a compression check with all the spark plugs out, engine warm. If those numbers are all good, then you need to pull all the injectors out & send them to witchunter for cleaning & testing. Also drop the cat if you still have it. It sounds like your problem occurs in closed loop operation (warm) so check the temperature to be sure its actually hot. Possibility you need to flush the coolant system because the temp sensor is covered in mud and is failing. Don't go crazy throwing parts at this, OBD1 is brain dead, it will not work unless you get lucky.
I think your problem is burned exhaust valves or a trashed camshaft (bad oil no ZDDP). after that many miles.
I think your problem is burned exhaust valves or a trashed camshaft (bad oil no ZDDP). after that many miles.
#3
Thanks for the ideas
I haven't tested the compression lately but a year and a half back it was bang on on all four cylinders. I'll do so again,
My feeling is that it isn't something so extensive, though I could be wrong
I'm able to drive the car around and most of the time it runs fine. The problem is kind of intermittent
I forgot to say that the exhaust pipe looks pretty black and sooty like it's running rich
and it does seem to be thirstier than normal
Any other insights out there?
I haven't tested the compression lately but a year and a half back it was bang on on all four cylinders. I'll do so again,
My feeling is that it isn't something so extensive, though I could be wrong
I'm able to drive the car around and most of the time it runs fine. The problem is kind of intermittent
I forgot to say that the exhaust pipe looks pretty black and sooty like it's running rich
and it does seem to be thirstier than normal
Any other insights out there?
Last edited by Toxophilite; May 7, 2016 at 11:37 PM.
#6
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#8
22re with a fueling problem
HI everyone. Im new here and have an issue i need expert yota brains to help me solve.Im working on my fathers 87 toyo shasta rv with 22re.Starts good cold/hot,it is only hitting on cyl#1 and #2.cyl rich condition,plugs are black when pulled.cyl#3 and cyl#4 seem to be dead,no change in idle when wire is pulled.plugs are slightly damp when pulled. Things iv done,computer sent off and injector drivers replaced,ignitor replaced with new unit,new coil,new oem plug wires,new cap/rotor,tested afm on my 22re 4runner-good,tested injector ballast on my 22re-good,tested distributor on my 22re-good,replaced tps with a know good unit tested on my 22re,blocked off egr to intake with fabricated plate,replace injector basket filters,revers flow bench cleaned injectors at 50psi,normal flow bench test injectors at 50psi no leakage,spray is normal,checked injector wire loom for corrosion and tested injector signal with noid light,checked timing chain-dowel pin is at 11:55,compression is 175 across all cyl,new fuel pump,unplugged fuel pressure regulator hose and no change.dizy is set around 10 btdc,i have not checked valve lash yet.. did i miss anything? I own 88 4runner and 91 mr2 and i have kept them out of the garage for 15 years but this little shasta/PITA has me stumped!! please help!!
#9
Well, you did throw a lot of parts at it. So how many miles are on it? Now pull the valve cover and check to see if you have wiped the lobes off with modern oils. Now 175 sounds high to me, most engines only do about 145 at best. Sounds like a chain jump. What I want you to do is post pics of the spark plugs and what cylinder they are from. You can set timing only with the ecu jumpered, otherwise the ecu screws with you. Now why was there finger sex with the ecu? These things are pretty darn bullet proof, at their age. Now did you clean the fuel rail while it was apart? The front pulsator damper is useless, you can replace it with a -6 AN fitting, the rear is the regulator. there is no test port, you have to make one. The injectors run at 55psi. do you have any NOID lights to check for injector pulse.
What I am thinking is you jumped the timing chain due to wear, and to that your exhaust valves are all burned and you are not getting what you think you have. I suspect you will need to pull the head, with the cam & lifters going to Delta, and the head to a machine shop.
What I am thinking is you jumped the timing chain due to wear, and to that your exhaust valves are all burned and you are not getting what you think you have. I suspect you will need to pull the head, with the cam & lifters going to Delta, and the head to a machine shop.
#10
I had a truck that would not run but it would light up the NOID light. Toyota uses crimps in the harness and the corrosion was so bad that it would pass enough current to light up the NOID light but not enough to fire off the injector.
The crimps are in the "saddle" part of the harness running from the Intake Manifold to the Passenger Inner Fender. Open the harness and remove the crimps and solder the wires instead.
The crimps are in the "saddle" part of the harness running from the Intake Manifold to the Passenger Inner Fender. Open the harness and remove the crimps and solder the wires instead.
#11
finger sex with the ecu. long lol on that one.. Because the garage my dad took it to said the ecu is fried..It has a rebuild ecu with new injector drivers and warranty.They also told him the chain jumped two teeth... not..the cam dowel is at 11:55,crank on tdc .compression on all is 175 psi. all cam lobes are nearly pristine.valve lash is in specs..008/.012. fuel pump is new,igniter is new, the spark jumps half a mile!!! the tps is in specs according to my multi meter.. nothing changes when i unplug the o2..i took out the cold start injector tonight,,not flooding ..swapped out the injector ballast and maf and no change..thank you for taking time to post on this sky. not being a jerk about the timing question.. i have a 944s /toyo mr2/88 4runner/85 Mercedes,, im very well versed in timing issues..belts,chains,camshaft chains,i could write a book ... i think this is some toyota gremlin? it doesn't like being in America for some reason.
Last edited by leesporsche; Jun 12, 2016 at 02:58 AM.
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