Hey everyone, so I am getting going on this build I have been waiting to do. I have all the tools together and I am pretty sure I got the parts I need too. This is my first engine build so I am looking to go step by step here and if I get stuck on something, hopefully post it here for some answers.

I have a 94' pickup 22RE. It just blew a head gasket so I am building one I had got from a junk yard.

So far, I have the block that has been machined and cleaned at a shop with .040 over pistons, the rebuild kit and new head from ENGNBLDR, new cooling system, and clutch. I am looking to get a long life from this build so I was planning on taking it slow. However, since my truck just blew its head gasket, I am forced to rush a bit which is why I wanted to get you guys involved for a hand here and there.

So far I have begun putting together the block which has been painted a Ford Dark Blue which I think goes well with silver and chrome for the other parts. I installed the main bearings and caps, as well as the piston and rod assemblies with the bearings as well.

My first question: I got the crankshaft from crankshaft rebuilders which from what I understand is a very reputable company (in fact when I brought it to the shop to get measured and all they said that they order from them so much, and they are always inspec, that there was really no need to check as long I as I used the supplied bearings). I am using the sealed power bearings that they supplied, however I forgot to get plastigauge and check the bearing clearance. Do you guys think I should pull it all back apart and double check it with plastigauge or should it be ok? It rotates smoothly with no binding or noise at all so far.

I am using Pete's Garage's tutorials for reference off of Youtube which is a good channel I like. And obviously going by what the FSM says.

Here are some pictures.

 

Looks good, I like the blue a lot! We are at a very similar point in our builds!

I would say to go back and measure if you are concerned at all. Trust but verify. Then you'll know for sure and can have piece of mind.

But if it doesn't worry you and you want to keep moving forward and you trust the shop's work, I wouldn't bother. Of course, ask me how that turns out after a few thousand miles and I might have a different opinion!

 

I made a bit of progress. I will post an update soon.

 

You are in the middle of your build as well?

 

Yep! I went with Chevy orange instead of the Ford blue, but otherwise very similar. Check out the thread linked in my signature.

 

I use the plasti gauge just so as I know that all is well. One thing I would double check is to make sure all the oil passages are clear. I had a head to fail and looking back, I did not check the passages as well as I should have and think the head failed because of oil starvation.

One reason I think so many head gaskets fail is the head bolts loosen up. I have seen several head bolts loose and I personally think that is the biggest reason for head gasket failure. Once you get it all back together and running and getting a few thousand miles on it, pull the valve cover and re-torque the head bolts.

I seen Mudhippy say that 22 require a re-torque. I have not seen it in any manuals or have missed it somehow but agree with it. Spend a lot of time cleaning all bolt holes. Cleaning is a big time consumer but has a lot to do with rebuilding.

While you have it this far down, now is a good time to clean and check your injectors. I like to go and remove the wire crimps in the injector harness. Those are a poor design. The crimps are in between where it droops between the intake and inner fender. You having the 94 will have the better connectors so would not mess with the connectors as long as they are in good shape.

Take a brass tooth brush to all your sensors, most should look like shiny brass when completed. Leave the Throttle Position Sensor attached to the throttle body, don't mess with the settings on it. Pull everything off of the intake and give it a good cleaning.

Check that your fuel return line and vent lines are clear. I see them clogged quite a bit. I am sure I will think of a few more things while the motor is out and will add them to your post. There are quite a few things that can be done while having the motor out that is not related to the motor that helps on down the road.

 

Ok so I got a few things done the last few days. Got more of the new block put together. Got the plastigauge and did it right. It all checks out. Cleaned all the bearing surfaces and cleaned all oil holes. Everything slid together real nice.
I also got a lot of the old engine apart. Getting close to pulling it out.

Questions: How do you disconnect the ECM and pull the harness though the firewall? Do you have to take dash components out?

And second, I am going to fab up my own EGR delete plates from 3/8 aluminum. Seems easy enough and much cheaper. I know where most of the areas are to block off, the two PAIR holes in the exhaust manifold, the two on the back of the timing cover, one in the back of the head and one in the back of the plenum. I want to make sure I know where they all are though so if I am missing any, let me know.

 

On your Injector Harness, remove the kick panel on the passenger side foot panel. There are 3 plugs, I just disconnect all three from the computer. You will see the rubber grommet up in the corner of the firewall. Just push it thru to the engine bay and work the rest of the harness thru the firewall. You will see which plugs will follow the harness.

Bringing the harness out with the motor is so much easier to work on the motor out of the truck instead of disconnecting it still in the truck. The plugs to the computer are fool proof so you wont have to worry about getting them installed incorrectly. You can leave the computer attached to the truck. Dont forget to unhook your transmission connectors.

 

keep it up with the photos and info!
i was going to work on my motor but came across a 3.8 v6.

 

I'm gonna get on doing some more today. Hoping to get it out tomorrow.

Few more questions though.

I was advised to take out the engine and tranny at the same time because it makes it easier to mate up, and to do the clutch on. But some people are saying it is a nightmare. Should I do them both at the same time or leave the tranny in?
If I take em out together, I just need to know how much they weigh too so I can set my hoist up right. I assume no more than a half ton?

Where are good points to attach the engine hoist to? Intake and Exhaust bolts maybe?

I am using the FSM to do this job and there are some wires I am not sure where they are. Igniter Connector, High Tension cord, Starter relay connector (on the starter I assume?), Check Connector.
What is the Rear Propeller Shaft?

 

I CANNOT get this crank pully bolt. I have tried starter bump, 1/2 Impact gun, 18" breaker bar.
It just will not budge.

What can I do here?

 

Looks like you're well prepared for pulling out the motor- your masking tape matches the new motor!
As far as pulling the motor and tranny out at the same time, I went through the same thought process. In the end I pulled them separately and I'm glad I did.
For one, you'll need a lift with a long boom that will be able to lift them out- that transmission is long. Additionally, it will be really heavy and difficult to maneuver.
You will make life much easier on yourself by renting/borrowing a transmission jack too. Both for removal and installation. I was really surprised at how easily my transmission went back in. A good transmission jack will allow you to adjust all the angles you need to line it up. I rented one for $12 for the day.

I've read about folks having a hard time (this includes me, too) removing the four bolts for the front driveshaft that bolts to the transfer, start spraying with PB blaster and plan to have two 14mm box wrenches when the time comes to remove (if you haven't already).

Have fun, it's a great feeling hoisting that thing up and out of your truck!

 

A longer breaker bar or cheater, block the wheels, put in in 4L, lock the hubs and go at it?

 

I tried a breaker bar with the handle of my floor jack. The truck literally started to move forward before the bolt came loose. I feel like I am going to break something if I pull any harder. I had it in 5th gear and this is after soaking it repeatably in PB for days.

This is the last thing I need off to take the engine out because I don't know how I will get it off if I take it out now.

 

So I made a lot of progress today.

Got the head, intake, exhaust, wire harness, all the lines and plugs undone. I am pretty sure the only thing left is the crank pully bolt that I have no idea how to get out, the bell housing bolts (How many are there?), and the mounts.

What is the best place to hoist this thing by? The engine mounts?




I wonder which cylinder it was XD























And there is the crack.

 

So this fell on the ground when I took the wire harness out. It goes to a wire right next to the oil pressure sending unit. Anyone know what it is to?

 

Knock sensor would be my guess for the wire.

How did you get the bolt out?

 

This guy has some suggestions:

 

Gotta give that a shot next. This bolt is killing me

 

That's a great old Pirate video. I've had to do the trick where the socket was welded onto the bolt before, if you do that one make sure to try and spin it off while it's hot, the heat actually helps.