I've been experiencing some vibrations when I get into 5th gear and thought it was my U Joints so I put it off for a little bit and didn't drive it much being easy on it if I did. No hauling, no towing, no extended trips. Bring on not one but two leaking rear wheel cylinders so I had to do a complete rear brake job.

While the wheels were off I noticed the top of the Diff was leaking but it wasn't running down to the bottom and it hadn't left any wet spots on the pavement. While neither wheel was touching the ground I spun both wheels one at a time. I can hear something clunking, and that's never good. I crawled under it and pushed and pulled on the driveline to see if the U joints were bad but I didn't see any obvious play. (I need to drop the driveline and rotate a wheel to confirm the joints aren't the problem) I think something in the differential is on it's way out.

My truck is a 1991, 1/2 Ton, 2wd, 22RE, W55 Manual Trans
The door jam is marked Model RN80L-TRMREA
Rear Code F372= 7 & 1/2" Ring Gear, 3.58 Gear Ratio, 2 Pinion, Open Diff




In a salvage yard I found a 1989, 1/2 Ton, Extended Cab Truck, 2wd, V6, R150 Manual Trans.
The door jam is marked Model- VZN90L-CRMDEA
Rear Code G382= 8" Ring Gear, 3.42 Gear Ratio, 2 Pinion, Open Diff

Will this Rear housing and Diff bolt in using my stock driveline and U Joints?
I noticed the driveline between the two is obviously different but I'm betting it's because of the V6 and R150 transmission.


At the salvage yard

 

Not 100% sure but I think if you look the holes in the differential flange are going to be bigger .

I don`t which would be more of a pain drilling the correct holes on the diff flange or putting the matching flange on your drive shaft

I found this out the hard way . I was lucky tried to put the bigger bolts in the smaller hole.

Going the other way if one was kind of sloppy and tired one might just bolt things together .

Either right away horrific drive line shake .

Or down the road it starts and snaps off the bolts.

 

I don't know for sure but knowing how Toyota switches so many other things between the 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder I would get the 4 cylinder.

I have seen on the two wheel drive models on the front end, they use different sized brake disc and on the rear ends they use different sized slave cylinders. Toyotas parts inventory must be a mile long for what you would think is similar trucks.

 

The driveline to the V6 rear is still in the bed of the truck so I could get it and swap that end to my driveline. My driveline needs the U joints replaced so that would be a good time to do it.

Someone informed me where the driveline bolts up is "about" 1 inch longer than the 7 1/2.

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