I have been a long term lurker of the forum and thought I would make my first post a build post and open the floor to a JDM swap discussion starting (of course) with why not to do one.

This will continue to be my build but I want to help with small missing pieces from other swaps that I hope will be useful for others

First off my build:
I bought a 1989 4runner for $2500 in college. It had done 220,00 according to the ODO but had a '93 3vze in it.... I have no idea why
manual of course

Now that I am out of college and have an 'adult' job I am pouring my wallet into it.

Goal:
I am a rock climber and all around explorer so the goal of this build is to reliably traverse the beautiful corner of WA state and not get stuck getting there. Another Expo Build!
obligatory pic whoring:
When I bought it
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Quickly bought a softtop living in cali (college)
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Oh yeah and the rear window was obviously broke it when i bought it
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I pride myself in being a junkyard crawler and pick up whatever I see as useful

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Got a winch (a little oversized but it was a gift)
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Finally before christmas I dropped some $$$ on her and bought a Blazeland LT kit and a rear OME lift. This truck is my DD and sees lots of road trips so SAS was not very attractive to me.
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bonus here she is at watershed last year
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Anyway on to the juicy part and how I hope to give back to the forum.
After I finished up the lift I got the dreaded knock sensor fault code so I decided f it I want a 3.4.

\rant
Being mechanically adept and considering I work as a controls contractor wiring doesnt scare me. So I got a steal on a JDM engine shipped straight to my door. It has been stated over and over again in every forum just find a donor truck. I didnt and now I am paying for it.

1st their add said that the engine was a direct swap for a toyota tacoma (that 96-02 bs). It also said computer and harness included.

mistake #1
I called the company (LAjdm) and told them I was interested. idiot.
I talked to their rep and ordered an engine he gave me a deal on shipping. $1400 to my door motor had 60k on it if i paid in cash, which I did.

mistake #2
I followed up with a few question (alarm bells should have been going off). I asked the rep what ecu was included manual or auto? what year was the specific motor they were sending to me? he had no idea what I was talking about.

To be fair they were easy to work with shipping was quick, I dont think they knew how difficult they made my swap.

mistake #3
when the engine showed up with no ecm and a harness cut to shreds I should have sent it back. But everyone knows how it is

I emailed them they argue it was advertised as a REPLACEMENT engine, but considering I ordered over the phone i cant show them the ad and say it was false advertising so im stuck with it.
\end rant

On to the educating bit.

so now you (and I) have an engine with a cut harness and no computer. First things first what computer do you need? Well that depends on what motor year you have?

How do you figure out what engine you have / what car it came from? Note: I am not going to give you a step by step guide on swapping a 5vzfe its been done to death but i want to share some specific knowledge I gained during my experience.

My way is simple sensors sensors sensors....
What sensors do you have how many wires do they have?
To start get a membership to TIS and download any documentation you might need, but most importantly get the EWDs (this isnt new advice everyone says it but it is the best advice.

Dead give aways:
How many wires does your TPS have?
3 or 4?

Look at part numbers. If I wanted a new one of <blank> and ordered it based on what I have what year will the manufacturer say the part is from?

Did the engine come with a maf? what style is it drop in or inline?

What do the manifolds look like?
(my engine ended up being out of a toyota Hiace and had quarky angled manifolds)

Does your wiring match any of diagrams? (if so you lucky ba*****)

Does the block have an oil cooler? (cause mine sure as h*** didnt)

If you are struggling with these clues PM me but google is your friend.

So I decided with mine that since there was no way I was going to find a Hiace ECM that I would go with a 1998 tacoma ecm as it had the same sensor layout and I was able to find the ECM plugs at my local toyota dealer.

Next I made a bridge harness from where mine was chopped (basically right at the engine) and made up all missing bits of harness.

Now I have my truck cranking I have spark but I don't have fuel. No injector pulse (12v to injector but ecm isnt pulling to ground and all grounds are good)

Maybe I overlooked something with my ECM choice as I have no idea what the Hiace had/has.

I will try to update for those interested but as for the build i have tons of parts in the garage. Stay tuned for fun

 

Welcome to YT.

Holy project batman.

 

I'm looking forward to seeing more. Subscribed.

 

Following. I'm not nearly as brave. I just dropped my 95 pickup off for a 3.4 swap to a local guy who's done about 30 of them. He picks the engines himself and goes through them. Also had him source a 2nd gen stock supercharger. Should be done mid-march. Good luck to you!

 

ya well the consequences on my end were actually quite dire.... i have until march 1st to get it out of the garage or my parents are having it towed I wish I werent so brave

Anyways, a small update: since I cant get my bridge harness to work i played hooky from work and picked up an auto 99 harness out of a runner; same sensors etc. just have to repin. wish me luck i will probably pic whore again tonight...

 

Thank you my friend I have seen and read tons of your threads/posts

 

This is going to be great! Subbed!

 

Well, I hope you've read things

Truth be told, I'm quite the internet gangsta.

 

Alright guys, I dont like asking for help especially on the simplest swap in the book however my lack of posts is due to the fact that I am stuck. I pulled an auto harness out of a 99 4runner and repinned it (painstakingly) to the manual 5vzfe in the engine bay.I say painstakingly because I went wire by wire, function by function to insure I got it right this time. The got my switched power spliced to the ecm and const power. Then landed my trigger wire and the 12v const power to the injectors and coil packs. Still crank and no fire. I swapped ECMs as well to rule out that possibility. All grounds check good, going to wire up OBD2 now but I doubt I will have codes.

What have I ruled out?
-ive unplugged the maf to no avail
-I can hear the fuel pump but have no injector pulse
-voltage tested good at coils and injectors
- have power to my efi relay (and have rechecked fuses)

Before I swapped the whole harness I had spark at least and now I dont have that. Starting to lose it a little bit is there anything glaring that I missed

 

I am changing my sig to "dont go JDM"

 

Update: repinned again (found several inconsistent plug numbers between the harness I have and the EWD). OBD2 now functions and pulling a p0110 code for IAT. Engine fires now but wont run. Ideas anyone?

 

on another note. can an IAT cause a no start condition (i will possibly need to repin my MAF as it is the pre 98 style and the harness I have is a 99 so the plug layout is different)? Also I am pulling no o2 codes yet neither sensor is wired 0.o

 

1st question (I think I saw the answer in your frist post, but just want to double check), does the MAF match the ECM? The MAF is used by the ECM to determine if the engine is running and if the ECM determines that the engine isn't running the ECM will turn off the fuel pump (this is a safety thing, such that if the vehicle is ever in an accident and the engine dies, the fuel pump doesn't keep running and possibly spray fuel every where causing a fire). I don't know the exact symptoms, but I have heard of guys with similar issues (engine starts, runs for a second or two then dies), and nearly all of those have been MAF issues.

No, the IAT code will not (or at least it didn't with my 97 swap) cause the engine to turn off, if anything it will just idle differently than its supposed to.

 

Yes the MAF matches the ECM the problem is the ecm and engine are essentially from a 98 taco and the harness is 99 auto 4runner. I think my miss match is causing the problem. I know the 98 had the inline maf and the 99 had the drop in style. The EWDs are a little vague on wire function any ideas? If not I'm pretty sure I can sort it out.

Currently the engine cranks sputters (like maybe one cylinder fires) then fuel cuts. Would a miss wired maf cut fuel that quickly? Literally one cylinder fire?

 

Got it running! Rewired the maf again and got it working. Off to the exhaust shop monday!

 

I just saw this thread... whoa man, heck of a project

So, your parents didn't get it towed on the 1st? lol

 

haha, no they bought a condo and were out of state overseeing a remodel. Thats one of the reasons I get away with this stuff

small update: Towed the runner to the shop for an exhaust.

After I got everything buttoned up (minus the exhaust) I tried to drive it and utterly failed. My fuel injectors were no putting out more fuel at load and I kept bogging and dying. I realized when I dropped it off at the shop that I never plugged in the speed sensor....... could that be the cause? TIA


also sorry to blueball everyone but pics soon I promise!

 

Small update with some pics.




The swap runs but I am having issues with it running. Currently the engine sounds like its running on 4 cylinders. I have troubleshot all of my codes and now have none left =) . Still missfiring/not running right. It sounds like a lawnmower.

Any ideas on what could cause missfires but not throw a code? I just installed new injectors/plugs/wires/exhaust.

I am stumped

 

UPDATE!

I got it running and it runs awesome also I found the photos from my blazeland build so here are some...



out with the old

holy scarred rotors batman

LOLZ blazeland front stock rear





Couldnt find any with the 2" ome rear.

 

Welded my sliders up!