So a couple of ya may have seen...I had a issue w my fuel pump couple days ago...well on way to work yesterday the pump had enough and quit...stranded at my job in parking lot.
So I was looking...seems like a guy could just cut the lines and slap a electric pump in pretty easy....has anyone done that? Would it pull the gas through the old pumps sock and past old pump ok? Not really wanting to drop tank there or cut hole in bed....

 

I have used electric pumps to push fuel thru dead mechanical pumps before on American engines, but never had to try it on a Toyota yet. Should work unless a broken diaphram permits fuel to bleed into your engine crankcase.
Electric fuel pumps are notoriously poor suckers, but they can push fuel well, so other things being equal, best results are got from electric pumps when they are mounted as low and as close to the tank as possible.

Whats wrong with repacing your stock pump??

 

I too have good success with chevys n so on.....im just hopeing it would be able to pull gas past internals of old pump....im assuming the regulator will deal with too much pressure....im planning on getting a pump that will put out close to required p.s.I......

 

I just dont want to drop the tank in the parking lot....cost of course...and time are reasons I dont want to swap stock pump.....heck I just got this truck but after reading all the bad stuff about the 3.0 , I might just have a truck for sale soon

 

Oh, I assumed that you were speaking about a carbed motor, not fuel injected.
I don't think that there is any good substitute for the factory in-tank electric unit for EFI trucks.

 

You will cause the new pump to burn out as electric pumps push much better then draw.

Trying to draw fuel through the old pump and out through the fuel bracket depending on how much you drive could be a few weeks or months.

If you have help a few people can pick up the bed and slide it back far enough to access the fuel pump bracket..

Your sure it is the pump that failed or is it else where in the pump electrical circuit??

It would be a waste to install a new pump and it still not work.

 

Absolutely sure pump failed....hmmm....I have removed a chevy bed before to access fuel pump.....damn I just didnt wanna pay the 125$ they want for new one.....heck I dunno

 

I would avoid "hacking" the fuel system, but if you do be sure to keep the COR in place and have a fire extinguisher handy.

 

try banging on the tank while someone cranks it. I had to do that a few years ago for about a week everytime i had to start it until i replaced the pump. at least it could get the truck home

 

Yea ive tried alot to make old pump cut on....well past that point...
I m starting to lean on moving the bed over....why not? Just got a line on a stock pump too 65 dollars so guess ill be doing it the right way after all

 

The fuel systems in these trucks are usually in bad shape. When I first got into Toyotas, I bought the $150 fuel pumps. Later I found some on ebay for $30 and that included shipping. Now when I go thru a project, I install one of those pumps and have never had a problem with one of them. I have probably installed 7 in 7 different turcks. I refuel when I get to a 1/4 tank.

I remove the bolts on the passenger side and loosen the drivers side bed bolts and tilt the bed. I would bet your Return line is clogged. The tank may look like rust inside but I have cleaned these tanks out and you wont find pitting or any signs of damage in the tank when cleaned. I have seen some bad tanks, it may look like a 1/4 inch of rust in the bottom or have veins like in your arm or a tree leaf just running every where. It isnt rust but a build up of chemicals or something in my opinion.

I would just clean the system and run it as it came stock and you should not have any more fuel realted problems. In each of my builds below, I show how bad the fuel systems get and how I clean them. I think you will be shocked to see yours.

 

Clogged return line....interesting. ...but this pump won't even kick on wired straight to batt (it did for awhile drovehim around....) kicked on wired to batt....then I just disconnected hot from batt and it ran it w original harness....running fine. Then stopped. Now won't cut back on no matter w harness or batt.....

 

So, a right-hand drive truck can lift the left side of the bed and get to the system, just like a left-hand drive truck?

I mean, the 'passenger' side is different depending on whether left or right hand drive... but I think the gas tank is on the same side regardless of where the passengers sit.

 

Hello Abecedarian.. I agree the the tanks are on the same side no matter which side the steering wheel is on. Most of the trucks on are the left hand drive. I have seen some that got confused at which side of the truck you are talking about. As if looking from front or back is why I say passenger or drivers side. It would get confusing for the right hand drive people.

rocketbear... My experience with a faulty fuel pump is it will get difficult to start for a couple of times and then it will just eventually quit if it is indeed the fuel pump. Like you said that going straight to the battery it wont even operate now, is quite similar to what I have seen.

There are a few threads on Rusty Tanks and in some cases, the tanks are bad. Every truck I have worked on, except one, the Return Line is either clogged in the line or the "J" line on the fuel pump assembly or both. I live in a humid area and think that is some of the problem on top of the poor fuel quality that we get now a days.

Also, if you pull the skid pan off, there is a drain bolt in the tank. I recommend NOT pulling that bolt out. Reason being is the threads will be full of corrosion and when you pull the bolt out, it will gouge the threads in the tank and you will have a leak. I seal my tanks with Red Kote and that solves that problem.