ok here's what I got, 81 SR5 4x4. new cap, rotor, magnetic pickup ,plugs , wires, rebuilt carb, fuel pump, filters, electric fan, alternator, voltage regulator, battery.

Here is what's going on, I bought the truck as a basket case, its never ran right. Its close, it starts and runs as is, when it gets warm it starts to sound as if its missing( only after it warms up). it also smells really rich. when you drive it , it runs fine, no power issues but when I come to a stop it stalls out. I have tried adjusting it, only 1 of the four adjusting screws actually does anything.

I put a rebuilt carb on it, at the time I was living in CA so its a smog legal carb, I have since moved to GA and removed the smog equipment. I don't really know where to start looking anymore.

im thinking at this point I might go buy a weber manual choke, just wanted to get some opinions before I drop another $300 into a carb after buying one from AutoZone for $400. im not opposed to testing other parts if anyone has an idea, im going back to square one at this point. I need this thing on the road yesterday...

 

For one, you can get a Weber carb from LCE for $330 and they will provide pretty good tech service for you.
http://www.lceperformance.com/Weber-...-p/1030032.htm

Two, I wouldn't trust a rebuilt carb that I didn't physically rebuild myself - there's no telling what may be wrong with it.

Three, is the carb you currently have a Weber? The difference in adjusting a Weber carb and Aisin carb is quite different. I had an Aisin carb on my truck when I first bought it that I was never able to lean out and I know my way around a carb quite well.

Four, if it is stalling after warm up and smells rich then then you likely have a problem with the choke. On my old Aisin carb, my electric choke wouldn't automatically shut off, but if I gave two quick pumps of the gas it would shut off. By quick I mean, simply stomp the gas to the floor twice.

I used a manual choke weber on my truck before I started my build (and plan on using it after I'm done too) and I really liked it. I'd go for it and never look back.

 

Oh, and check your timing too - should be 5* BTDC at about 800-900 rpm with the vacuum advance cut.

 

The carb boiling is a separate issue. And its taken care of now. I still have a hard start issue when the engine is hot. This is the first time ive had the truck in hot wheather, I bought it in oregon on the winter, now in south arizona, its been high 80's most days. It began with an issue I had where it would randomly idle very rough when i came to a stop sign. But i could make it stop by turning the idle mixture screw way out, but it would later idle rough again wanting the screw back in. I thought it was an air leak at first, checked and siliconed my carb adapter plates, still happened. That symptom seemed to stop after I changed the fuel filter...

Still hard starting when hot...

And the hard start sometimes started with a thud, with white smoke. I thought maybe it's hydrolocking? Maybe a bad head gasket? Then I noticed my oil seemed more full, thought maybe a bad head gasket putting coolant in the cylinder. Tested the cooling system pressure, it was ok.

I thought my gas gauge seems to drop quickly, I noticed the smoke looked more grey/black. The oil kinda smelled like gas, so I adjusted the float hieght, it was set at 41mm and supossed to be 35. Then i noticed the gas boiling in the carb. So i put 2 thick gaskets in, I also have a phenolic spacer in the mail. But the boiling seems to have stopped.

Still hard to start when hot...

Also sometimes after a hard start while driving slow, it would chug the truck back and forth( kinda like running out of gas, but a soft chugging. And only one time it chugged hard! Just about gave me whiplash, I pushed the clutch in, it came to an idle and I took off again, never happened again.

Yesterday I read an article that was listing the symptoms of a bad ignition coil, bad gas milage, chugging, hard starts when hot, smoke on startup. Possibly gas in oil too if it's not burning completely?

Also, when I've been tuning the carb, if the engine dies, with the key still on, rarely ill hear a buzzing sound from the distributor. I tried to flip the dis cap off, and got a big ol shock. I thought the engine happened to die while the rotor was near a plug wire and stayed arcing out. But could be a bad ground? Can i ground the coil directly, - on the coil goes to C on the module, what would happen if I ran another wire from coil - to the body of the truck? My other grounds are in good shape.

I'll check it out with the ohmeter. Thanks for the coil suggestions.