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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Should I fix my oil contaminated clutch, 3VZ-E

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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 01:41 PM
  #1  
btu44's Avatar
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Should I fix my oil contaminated clutch, 3VZ-E

The clutch in my 89 PU, 3VZ-E has oil on it and chatters badly. It almost impossible to back up a hill in low transfer range. The engine shakes so bad in the motor mounts, I can't get the truck to move.

The reason there's oil on the clutch is because of a leak in the 'rear oil seal retainer' gasket. It's not the rear main seal itself leaking but the actual gasket area. I saw this slight leak when I replaced the clutch but ignored it with a healthy dose of wishful thinking. (It aint that bad)

Well it is that bad...but it looks like a big PITA to fix. Using the FSM it looks like the oil pan needs to be dropped so the 2 studs in the rear oil seal retainer clears.

Questions:
Is the oil pan removal SST absolutely necessary, or is there another way with out distorting the oil pan?

Have you guys had good luck resealing the oil pan while the engine is still mounted? It seems keeping the gasket surfaces oil free during installation would be difficult. My truck has a 4" bracket lift, so it looks to be a little easier.

My engine has 177K miles on it. On the 3VZ-E engine, do they tend to have a groove cut into the crank shaft from the oil seal lip? Are these typically needed?

http://www.store.partsdinosaur.com/product3726.html

I just can't decide...fix it or live with it? Help me decide.

Thanks
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 07:39 PM
  #2  
arlindsay1992's Avatar
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I've never worked on a 3.0, but here's what I can tell you. The studs should be removable. So remove the studs and then you should be able to pull the seal retainer straight out along the axis of the crank centerline. I wouldn't remove the oil pan. If it doesn't leak then don't give it a reason to start. Just remove the seal housing and reinstall with new gasket and a generous amount of silicone. My 22RE Pickup had a slight groove worn but I didn't install the seal all the way. Installing it 0.5mm farther or less in will move the sealig lip out of the groove onto brand new metal.

Here's a video of the seal replacement on a 22RE. Skip to 2:10.

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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 03:06 PM
  #3  
btu44's Avatar
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I appreciate the suggestions. Removing the studs didn't occur and that will help alot. I suppose I can use bolts when putting it back together.
My oil seal retainer look like it had sealant and no gasket. I'll reassemble with a gasket and offset the seal a little. That should solve any problems with the groove causing a leak.

Thanks, you saved me alot of work.
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