Does my truck need to be level for some repairs?
#1
Does my truck need to be level for some repairs?
Total newbie question...but I usually work on everything in my garage. I've got an old Toyota now that won't find in my garage, which means it's out on the street, on a slope. Not a big slope, but definitely a slope.
I was going to adjust my carb. Does it need to be level? I mean I know they can work at pretty extreme angles (the stock carbs, anyways), but I don't know if it's cool to adjust them when they're at angles.
I'll need to figure out which way is best to point it when changing the oil too, I guess.
I was going to adjust my carb. Does it need to be level? I mean I know they can work at pretty extreme angles (the stock carbs, anyways), but I don't know if it's cool to adjust them when they're at angles.
I'll need to figure out which way is best to point it when changing the oil too, I guess.
#2
#3
Ok, thanks. Probably not the float, but I don't know yet. The truck came from a much lower elevation, and also probably just needs everything, including the timing, checked. I get a little backfiring at times, and the high idle (cold start?) doesn't seem to be right.
#4
If your talking about rejetting, then no you would not need to be on a level surface.
You mean the carburetor does not maintain or even have a high idle on a cold start-up?
Or that it does, but is not at the right rpms?
You mean the carburetor does not maintain or even have a high idle on a cold start-up?
Or that it does, but is not at the right rpms?
#5
Well, it's a stock carb, which I don't think tend to need rejetting...but I could be wrong.
The high/fast idle doesn't seem to kick on when I start it cold. I have to keep my foot on the gas for while before it will idle on its own, and if I don't let it warm up, it will be very "stumbly" for a while, if it even moves more than a few feet at all.
By the way, this is a '78, 20R.
The high/fast idle doesn't seem to kick on when I start it cold. I have to keep my foot on the gas for while before it will idle on its own, and if I don't let it warm up, it will be very "stumbly" for a while, if it even moves more than a few feet at all.
By the way, this is a '78, 20R.
#6
The high/fast idle doesn't seem to kick on when I start it cold. I have to keep my foot on the gas for while before it will idle on its own, and if I don't let it warm up, it will be very "stumbly" for a while, if it even moves more than a few feet at all.
By the way, this is a '78, 20R.
By the way, this is a '78, 20R.
I can only assume at this point that if your OEM carburetor is Aisan, that it could be similar to the 80s Aisan carburetors in that you have a Fast Idle Cam. And that it is not engaging with you enable the choke. That cam will physically hold the throttle plate open a little to aid in warming up the engine quicker. It would do the same thing as what your doing now, in that you are using your foot to raise the idle.
If you do have a Fast Idle Cam, what is common is that gunk gets built up on the spring and prevents the cam from engaging. Or the spring is broken or not even there or is so worn that there is not enough tension on it anymore to work. Or the cam cannot freely rotate because of the same gunk.
Last edited by slow-mo; Oct 9, 2012 at 08:38 PM.
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