First Post!! Front axle bearing/knuckle servicing help UTAH residents PLEASE
#1
Hey guys first post! I recently just became a very proud owner of a 1989 4runner. The guy told me it was built by Ballistic Fabrication in AZ, and it has their decals, weld on emblems along with very professional welding work on the tube bumpers and sliders and solid axle swap.. So I feel like he wasn't bs'ing me. THIS THING IS SO SOLID. Picked it up in Nevada, the guy just bought it to abuse basically, didn't listen to what the guy told him was put into it and didn't care so he couldn’t answer a lot of my questions. But I got this for $2,800 with 35" BFG tires and alloy rims too. So now you know the story behind it here is my problem;
I live in Orem, UT and I live with my girlfriend in a two bedroom apartment with no garage, and just a small storage unit underneath that I have packed now with car parts etc.
Now I took the 35s off a few days ago and put on 33 all terrains so it will be a little easier to make temporary fender flares to pass emmissions/saftey. Right afterwards I got such a horrible shaking in my steering/front wheels, I mean like totaling your car + everyone within 4 feet of you type “death wobble”. The tires had been sitting for a year or two so I guessed it was the balancing. Got them balanced yesterday, pull out in the street. Smooth ride, I got a big smile on my face until I hit the first TINY bump in the road, DEATH WOBBLE. I’m guessing it has to be the wheel bearing, it’s just strange how it didn’t do it at all when I drove it all the way home from Nevada! My theory is that somehow the wider (13.5”) 35s were heavier and put the weight on a different part of the wheel bearing. :/
Sorry, this is going to be long. If you’re still reading, thank you
So I'm starting school again in a month from today actually, and Utah Valley University has decent automotive building which I’ve taken a few classes at. So, starting in a little over a month I will be able to drop the axles and pull them apart in one of my classes as well as all the bodywork and paint it in a professional booth!. But I have been lurking around on yodatech for quite some time and have learned;
1. there are some pretty cool guys with lots of experience on here
2. There’s a lot of yoda/rock crawling guys that live in UTAH
So please, if you live in Utah, and have a garage, and any specialty tools (yoda wheel bearing socket, snap ring pliers, vice etc.) And knowledge/experience that I lack, I AM BEGGING YOU, PLEASE HELP ME!
You should also know: I am a fast learner, I have money and can buy all my parts plus tools if needed (six shooter knuckle kit and TG knuckle servicing kit I’m thinking) And I can even pay you, or buy beer/food or some parts when I order mine! I JUST WANT TO BE ABLE TO GO WHEELING A FEW TIMES BEFORE SUMMER IS OVER!
Also, if you know someone else who might, or could point me in the right direction of a rentable car lift/garage it could be very helpful too. Thanks guys, even if you can’t help I appreciate it.
I live in Orem, UT and I live with my girlfriend in a two bedroom apartment with no garage, and just a small storage unit underneath that I have packed now with car parts etc.
Now I took the 35s off a few days ago and put on 33 all terrains so it will be a little easier to make temporary fender flares to pass emmissions/saftey. Right afterwards I got such a horrible shaking in my steering/front wheels, I mean like totaling your car + everyone within 4 feet of you type “death wobble”. The tires had been sitting for a year or two so I guessed it was the balancing. Got them balanced yesterday, pull out in the street. Smooth ride, I got a big smile on my face until I hit the first TINY bump in the road, DEATH WOBBLE. I’m guessing it has to be the wheel bearing, it’s just strange how it didn’t do it at all when I drove it all the way home from Nevada! My theory is that somehow the wider (13.5”) 35s were heavier and put the weight on a different part of the wheel bearing. :/
Sorry, this is going to be long. If you’re still reading, thank you

So I'm starting school again in a month from today actually, and Utah Valley University has decent automotive building which I’ve taken a few classes at. So, starting in a little over a month I will be able to drop the axles and pull them apart in one of my classes as well as all the bodywork and paint it in a professional booth!. But I have been lurking around on yodatech for quite some time and have learned;
1. there are some pretty cool guys with lots of experience on here
2. There’s a lot of yoda/rock crawling guys that live in UTAH
So please, if you live in Utah, and have a garage, and any specialty tools (yoda wheel bearing socket, snap ring pliers, vice etc.) And knowledge/experience that I lack, I AM BEGGING YOU, PLEASE HELP ME!
You should also know: I am a fast learner, I have money and can buy all my parts plus tools if needed (six shooter knuckle kit and TG knuckle servicing kit I’m thinking) And I can even pay you, or buy beer/food or some parts when I order mine! I JUST WANT TO BE ABLE TO GO WHEELING A FEW TIMES BEFORE SUMMER IS OVER!

Also, if you know someone else who might, or could point me in the right direction of a rentable car lift/garage it could be very helpful too. Thanks guys, even if you can’t help I appreciate it.
Last edited by dropzone; Jul 26, 2012 at 07:52 AM. Reason: keep it clean
#2
It is easy. Find some space and take your time. If I was out there in Utah this summer I would totally come help you. But I am here
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...ctures-180536/
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...eRebuild.shtml
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...ctures-180536/
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...eRebuild.shtml
#3
Have you done the shake test? Jack a tire into the air, and see if you can shake it. If there's play with your hands at 12 and 6, that'd be ball joints. If there's play with your hands at 3 and 9, that's likely tie rod ends/steering rack. If there's play both ways, could be both, or it could be wheel bearings... leastwise for IFS. I know your solid axle is different, but the theory should apply.
If you really need help, post up on RME4x4.com, that's where the serious wheelers hang out and you'll find several small shops and maybe a driveway mechanic or two willing to help you out. But I'd do some more poking around first, make sure you know exactly what's wrong. It's not necessarily wheel bearings.
If you really need help, post up on RME4x4.com, that's where the serious wheelers hang out and you'll find several small shops and maybe a driveway mechanic or two willing to help you out. But I'd do some more poking around first, make sure you know exactly what's wrong. It's not necessarily wheel bearings.
#4
Thanks toyospearo for those links, I had already read one, but your thread helped a lot!
Utahrunner thanks for your input, the drivers side wheel I already did the test and it had way too much movement, but its hard for me to grasp how this DEATH WOBBLE comes while 35+ mph. Where do you live here in utah? Oh and i was JUST ABOUT to register and post on RME4x4 I probably should have, but I've already started and its going pretty smooth in my apartments underground parking....
I've got the hubs off now just waiting for my 54mm socket to get here with my kit tomorrow. My drivers side axle has A LOT of play, but it still moves the diff, any ideas on what it might be? wish i could describe it better. inwards and front to back play... ill know soon enough i just wish I knew now, so that if I need more parts I can already have them on the way!
One more question for anyone, I have a custom square tube front drive-shaft. I've taken it out and discovered that there is not any sort of slip at all, just one tube fit into another square tube, and not even a very snug fit at that! I've read every forum i could find and from what I understand is this is a nig-rig for low speed crawlers and replacement drive shafts. correct me if i'm wrong, but should i start looking for a new driveshaft? Trail gear? recommendations? Thanks guys!
Utahrunner thanks for your input, the drivers side wheel I already did the test and it had way too much movement, but its hard for me to grasp how this DEATH WOBBLE comes while 35+ mph. Where do you live here in utah? Oh and i was JUST ABOUT to register and post on RME4x4 I probably should have, but I've already started and its going pretty smooth in my apartments underground parking....
I've got the hubs off now just waiting for my 54mm socket to get here with my kit tomorrow. My drivers side axle has A LOT of play, but it still moves the diff, any ideas on what it might be? wish i could describe it better. inwards and front to back play... ill know soon enough i just wish I knew now, so that if I need more parts I can already have them on the way!
One more question for anyone, I have a custom square tube front drive-shaft. I've taken it out and discovered that there is not any sort of slip at all, just one tube fit into another square tube, and not even a very snug fit at that! I've read every forum i could find and from what I understand is this is a nig-rig for low speed crawlers and replacement drive shafts. correct me if i'm wrong, but should i start looking for a new driveshaft? Trail gear? recommendations? Thanks guys!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
FS[PacSouthWest]: 2- 8"3rd members:4.88 ratchet lockers,new setup kit, rear axle rebuild kit,diff armor
jerusry
Axles - Suspensions - Tires - Wheels
1
Oct 19, 2015 05:28 PM
toyoda8488
84-85 Trucks & 4Runners (Build-Up Section)
2
Jul 5, 2015 10:18 PM





