Replacing 22RE timing chain and just go the head off truck after a week of battle. Trucks been down two weeks and I want to get it on road ASAP. Can I skip pulling oil pan and use sealant under timing chain cover? Has anyone had bad luck doing this? I would rather not pull motor or drop front end.

thanks

 

That's why you may want to drop the pan, so as to get the best seal on the bottom part of the timing cover also and not have to chance doing it again.

But others have done it successfully without dropping the pan. I personally decided to pull the engine and do a complete rebuild "while I was in there".

 

the factory service manual calls to pull the head for timing replacement. just clean and fipg the pan, put the cover on then the head last.

 

i think vital sounds good. unless you got some junk in there. like old chain damper parts.

but if your just worried about the seal. . . . well, i dropped my pan by dropping just enough of the ifs stuff. wasn't difficult. however, when i fipg'ed my pan to re'install, i got like 90% of the sealant on myself and various parts of the truck and she sealed up great. your leaving it installed is probly a better way lol

 

Thanks for the good info, what sealant would you recommend. I use to use "The Right Stuff" back in the day, don't know if it's still the hot lick.

 

I'm lazy...left head and pan in place...used Permatex Ultra grey...20,000 miles later...no issues...pieces of driver side chain guide are down there somewhere...am I worried? No. I do keep an eye on the oil pressure warn light...

 

I have done many without taking pan or head off. YOu must loosen the front oil pan bolts (5 or 6) so that the pan can bend down a bit.

 

I did mine with the head and the pan in place with 0 problems. I used RTV ultra sealants, the proper colors for the job it needed to do. Just be careful about dropping stuff in the pan, I shoved a large rag into the front of the pan and shop vac'd all of the crap and old gasket scrapings off of it before I pulled it out. Just remember the RTV is supposed to be thin films spread evenly, not giant beads that ooze out when the bolts are tightened. You should have just a bit that comes out along the edges. I also glue the gasket to one part, let the RTV set up for a few hours then put another thing layer on the gasket and assemble. I did put a small bead at the corners of where the front cover/pan/block come together to make sure the area was sealed well.

You need to change the oil before first starting, I got coolant in the oil, just a small amount, but some. I put in the cheapt oil and a cheap oil filter on and fired it up, got the timing right, set the idle and let it cool off. I brought it up to temp one more time and then dumped the fire up oil and filter and then put in good oil in and filter on.

 

i dunno, i went to toyota and bought a tube of "toyota form in place gasket" and probly paid too much for something cheap re-badged as toyota. use whatever as long as it is advertised to do what you want it too. install on clean parts. a jug of laquer-thinner is great for removing grease and oily residues