I have put a new pinion seal on my real axle, and when I did it there was a grove worn where the seal rides on the yoke. I cleaned it up as much as I dare and then put it back together. Well the leak is back and I'm at a loss.

Do they make a repair sleeve for this job, or do I need to start looking for a new yoke? Is a new yoke going to screw up my counting threads method of re-torquing the pinion nut?

 

have u checked the air valve to make sure its not stuck and allowing air to flow in and out, i have heard of the rear ends building up air pressure and then causing leaks from the seals, also u might be able to use some heat shrink where the seal goes at and might help take up a little to seal it too.

 

The axle vent is clear, so I'm not building pressure.

The yoke is pretty good sized, I'm not even sure where I would find hear shrink the big? I'm about 99% sure the yoke is so damaged where the seal rides it has tore up the new seal.

 

post a pic if u have one, might take it to a machine shop and have them weld and turn it to the right size again or just get a used set up.

 

I don't have it out, but I never thought of welding it up and turning it back down. I have a welder and the skills to do the welding, and I have a friend with a lathe. Not sure how big his head stock will take, but I think he can get it in there.

 

Another option is to see what size seals are available with the correct outside diameter.

Turn the yoke down below the damage to a size that is available although if you go this route and sell the truck it will drive the next owner crazy.

In the past I have both built up and turned down to repair damaged areas like this.

 

Why bother???

Call Zack at Marlin Crawler and get a new upgraded flange.

Geez I think I have an extra laying around too. I bought two from All Pro OffRoad a while ago ~$70 for both laying on the desk, since I went back to the stock flange. It seems the All Pro units didn't have the V6 5spd driveshaft pattern & the MC units do.

 

Couldn't you just set the new seal in a different spot where it rides on the flange where it is not grooved. I know the seal can be set in below flush to seat up on a shoulder in the differential, but you have some room to set it flush or even a little out of flush depending where the original, leaky seal made the groove. Just so you have a nice fresh area on the flange for the seal to ride and save you about $100 for a new flange.

Am I accurate in my theory?