Hi all just another simple question I have. Hope again I got this organized to the right area. I noticed the 22re, 22xx, etc. Was there a different 3litre in the 4runner in 1989? Or was it just one type? If more then one what was the horsepower difference?

 

Short answer: No.

The only V6 used in 88-95 PUs and 4Runners was the 3.0L (2958cc) 3VZ-E.

 

Ok cool, thats what I was looking for 3VZ-E. Don't remember reading about how much HP it has were they different at any point in those years?

Thanks

 

The original HP for the 88 was stated to be 145. That was changed in 89 to 150 HP. Why that happened is a mystery. They tightened up the valve clearance specs at some point after 88(I can prove that). But that's the only difference that could possibly affect the performance of the 88 engine vs. 89+ that I'm aware of. The ignition system was changed/upgraded later on, but didn't change the engine's performance(supposedly).

My question is how do you get more HP out of it without changing the torque output too? Which never changed from 88-95. It's always been 180 ft.lbs.

 

Thanks for the information! Ok I decided to continue anything related to engine problems right here as it is easier for me to refer to instead of starting another thread.
Now after the engine is regular running temp I take it out for a drive. Seems when I give it more then 1/8th pedal it is not getting all the power it is suppose to have. Should I start with
1. Plugs and wires and ??? (what else goes with those two?) What is recommended for my 3.0 (i.e Ford uses Autolite, GM uses ACDelco) for plugs and for wires.
2. Air Filter is brand spanking new.
3. Oil is REAL clean and clear.
4. Would Vacuum lines cause interruption like that?
5. Would not having the Catalyst converter on cause intermittent probs?
6. Bad fuel injection?
Quite a variety of possibles but not sure where to begin.

Thanks

 

When was the last time a tune up was done?. If your going to replace plugs and wires, do cap, rotor and air filter at the same time. You should also check for any vacume leaks. Start there as I don't know how miles and what other repairs have been done recently. The 3vze IMHO requires lifting the hood a little more often to stay on top of maintinance and potential problems down the road, especially cooling system. Good luck.

 

Ok I can do that! As far as the tune up that is unknown because I just got it like 2months ago. So is using NGK plugs and wires the way to go or is their something better on the Market? OEM is just fine with me but I can't see why someone put Autolite plugs and wires in it.

 

NGK or Denso's are good, I always use Toyota parts for maintance.

 

Thanks for the reply, I found the NGK's are not all that expensive, but the irridium are like 7.99 a piece . They last as long as they say?

 

You can get the denso's alot cheaper and they will work fine. I would also use OEM (Toyota) plug wires, as I said before 3vze's like OEM parts better IMO.

 

Umm ok where is the best place to get the OEM WIRES at?

 

Umm at your local Toyota dealership.

Its just a suggestion. You gotta do whats works for you.
Like I said before 3vze's sometimes don't run good on some aftermarket tune up parts.

 

IF your issue seems throttle related, i'd check out the throttle position sensor (TPS). That senses how much you have the throttle butterfly open and the ecu compensates for it. Not sure if it would fit those symptoms perfectly though. Also, have someone press on the gas while you look at the throttle body. While they have their foot to the floor, if you can push the throttle open more, you need to adjust your throttle cable. Pretty common problem it seems. Is it sputtering while you try to accelerate? A bad AFM caused that on my 22re. Throwing any codes?

 

@ksti: Yeah sorry for asking that question lol, I was pretty tired when I realized the next day what I wrote lol. Local parts store can order them for me.

@Inferno451: There is no sputtering at all just the high idle at 2000 then goes down to like 1200 after it warms up. I will look at that for sure as any advice to get that down would be great. Also to eliminate vacuum leaks I did not hear anything hissing (hard to hear with the high idle tho too), nor did I see any damaged hoses "of the thousand that are on there" . PCV (rattles when shaken) is good too along with new air filter.
As far as codes I am not sure because I have not really learned how to do that yet. Yes I am a green newbie to the Yota world lol. I learn fast and have quite the Mechanical aptitude and attitude. If this helps the check engine light is NOT on at any time.

 

No need to be sorry, I'm still asking questions also about my rig. I,ll try and help you whenever I can.

 

I was wandering does the ECU spit out a code when the TPS goes whacky? Well sticks or whatever?

 

Not always, Go to http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/ and check the resistence of the TPS that will give you a start.

 

What was the OEM company for the distributor cap and rotor button?

 

Denso.

 

I think 4crawlers website has Info on how to check your tps as well.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

it would be cool if you made a video of the testing and setting of your tps. my adhd keeps me from understanding it
you have any pics of your 4runner>