Weber Vacuum Troubles
Feb 28, 2012 | 04:47 AM
#1
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From: Portland, OR
Weber Vacuum Troubles
I bought a used 32/36 DGAV several years ago for my 20R...It never ran right. Took it to a shop, got it re-jetted. It ran better, but still not quite right. Then the tranny went out and I forgot all about this problem. I got the transmission rebuilt by Marlin Crawler, new clutch, pulled the motor and replaced all gaskets and seals, port-matched the head, and threw in a LC Engineering Pro-Torquer cam.
The engine runs great - at idle, it will accelerate if you ease onto the gas pedal. If you stomp on the gas, it coughs or dies and seems to loose power over 3000 rpm. The engine is timed right, I've got clean gas, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor. Carb is dialed in.
I can turn a wrench, but I'm not great at diagnosis, so here goes. I tried spraying carb cleaner at the base, got a a little stumble. I pulled off my vacuum lines at the base of the carb, one has little pull, the other has none at idle or at partial throttle. It really seams like it's a timing advance problem. I was able to stick a pin all the way through one port, so I know it's not blocked. The other one has a tube running through the middle of it, so I don't know. I replaced the adapter gaskets. I wish I could get a single piece adapter, but I don't think they are made for the 20R intake.
My question is, is there something I can do on my own? Does it matter which tube goes to which port? Should I take it to a shop and tell them to fix it. Should I just buy a new 32/36 DGEV (what I should have done in the first place)?
-Rusty
The engine runs great - at idle, it will accelerate if you ease onto the gas pedal. If you stomp on the gas, it coughs or dies and seems to loose power over 3000 rpm. The engine is timed right, I've got clean gas, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor. Carb is dialed in.
I can turn a wrench, but I'm not great at diagnosis, so here goes. I tried spraying carb cleaner at the base, got a a little stumble. I pulled off my vacuum lines at the base of the carb, one has little pull, the other has none at idle or at partial throttle. It really seams like it's a timing advance problem. I was able to stick a pin all the way through one port, so I know it's not blocked. The other one has a tube running through the middle of it, so I don't know. I replaced the adapter gaskets. I wish I could get a single piece adapter, but I don't think they are made for the 20R intake.
My question is, is there something I can do on my own? Does it matter which tube goes to which port? Should I take it to a shop and tell them to fix it. Should I just buy a new 32/36 DGEV (what I should have done in the first place)?
-Rusty
Feb 28, 2012 | 05:03 AM
#2
Mar 1, 2012 | 06:12 AM
#3
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 5
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From: Portland, OR
Thanks for the link. I had already looked through that thread. I understand I cant dial in my carb until my vacuum leak is solved. What I was really hoping to hear was some advice on finding and fixing my vacuum leak. I don't have vacuum gauges and wouldn't know how to use one anyway. Does anyone know if the vacuum ports on the side of the 32/36 are supposed to be pulling vacuum at idle?
As a side note, when I first got the truck running, I pumped the brakes a few times and it killed the engine. Could a vacuum leak in my booster be causing these problems? My brakes are a little spongy. That was going to be my next project.
As a side note, when I first got the truck running, I pumped the brakes a few times and it killed the engine. Could a vacuum leak in my booster be causing these problems? My brakes are a little spongy. That was going to be my next project.
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