I've searched everywhere and cannot get any information other than "use two screwdrivers", Does anyone have tips on getting it off? I've taken the oil pan off trying to get the cover behind it but still no. Can't get a gear puller in there or anything... I've spent so long on this and i have no idea...

 

which engine?

and be more specific on 'timing gear" Are you talking about the gear on the bottom of the dist, the spur gear/bolt on the cam sprocket, crank timing pulley, etc?

 

the timing belt gear should just slide off, sometimes they get stuff behind it and u have to tap it with a hammer a couple times and get a screwdriver behind to move it a little and then it will come off. also the key might of slipped and it not sitting right keeping it from coming off so look at that too.

 

sorry its the 3vz, and justin_4runner tap it with a hammer how? ive gotten 2 screwdrivers behind it and only managed to mangle the cover behind it... also, is there a washer behind it or is the flat metal plate connected to the timing gear?

 

Ahh,, crank timing belt gear..

Usually doesnt require brute force, more of a perfect balance of evenly applied force.

Has the gear moved any at all? Usually they are a pain until they move and then they shoot off.

You can try shooting a bit of PB between the carank and pulley, giving it time to work and it may ease its removal.

 

its been soaked in PB Blaster and sat for over 24hrs now... Has not moved one bit and the (washer?) metal plate between that and the cover behind it has been chipping off... it honestly feels like it is welded on there... I cannot get a gear puller in there and the screwdrivers dont have the force... Is there a gear puller that can fit behind there?

 

has anyone ever slipped some 550 (para)cord behind there to use as a puller? maybe using a drill to twist it and pull it off? I dont think this will work but its the only thing i can think of

 

no it is not meant for a gear puller unless u get it pulled out half inch. its just one of thoes things that should come off but always a pain. tap all around it and even like u where putting it back on, there is rust in there and its holding it on, take a look and see if the key is causing a problem.

 

Have you used a plastic mallet and hit it on the side (where the belt teeth are)?

While pulling, tap it on the sides with a PLASTIC mallet,, and dont be a sissy about it,, hit it good back and forth on the sides.

 

ours was a beyotch to get off too.

PB blaster....a ton of it....rubber mallet.....small blocks of wood to get better pry leverage points....i didn't need to be too careful since we are replacing the oil pump anyways.

I don't know of any other way....except to make sure to apply even bilateral pressure

 

I've heard a purse works pretty well too.
Then there is the less drastic action

 

Victory! Although it is quite bittersweet... took a week to get the stupid thing off... seriously, a week. I also damaged the timing gear and the cover behind it to the point that they have to be replaced now...

Here is the damage to the cover behind it... as you can see it is scored pretty bad right on top of the seal...

 

Here is why it was so freakin stubborn... It was rusted... BAD

More rust...

cracked cover... seriously I dont have any pictures of it but the thing was so brittle that it kept cracking... I'm just glad that I don't have to mess with the timing gear right now...

 

set your camera to MACRO for close-ups (I think)

good deal on getting that off, that sure was a mess. not much room for PB Blaster to soak in especially when it's occupied by rust. nasty stuff. should clean up nicely though.

 

It was a cell phone camera... My girlfriend has a nice DSLR but she is at work so I can't get her to use it.

 

s'alright

gets the point across anyways. are you replacing the oil pump?

 

No, looks to be in good enough shape despite my previous thought that it would not work

 

is there an oil pump gasket or is it just RTV? also, on the oil pan is there 2 gaskets or just a gasket and some rtv between the block and the plate above the oil pan? Anything else I should be looking for while im down there? I know its a lot of questions but im tired of my truck not running right... this was supposed to just be a valve cover job too... now its valve cover gaskets, oil pan gasket, oil pump gasket, timing belt, clean and degrease, spark plugs, oil change, radiator flush, and probably some new steering components... at least... if I can get the local dealer to do the recall on the steering bar...

 

you can check out my son's thread (in my sig) as we a refreshing his 3vze prior to him being 16 (january 2012). if you start from the end you will see the more pertinent pics.

his is an 88 4runner 3vze.

the oil pump goes on with FIPG or similar....there is a small rubber o-ring that goes onto the block on the driver's side and a oval-ish gasket that attaches at the oil-pump / oil pickup tube. don't forget to pack the gears with vaseline or similar.

not knowing your year I can only answer with what I know. the baffle plate goes on with FIPG ten the oil pan with FIPG. we have not put those back on yet because we are going to do the rear main seal but have to get the motor off the stand and onto the hoist to access the rear of it.

 

my truck is a 91 4wd 5spd 3.0 for those interested, and thanks guys, I found my haynes manual and have been going through it, ive got a cork gasket for the oil pan and some rtv i can use for the baffle plate and oil pump, have to find that o-ring and i also found that the kid before me left the pass side trans bracket (the one that connects the bellhousing to the block) and the trans dust cover off... fun stuff... anyone know how much antifreeze i need and is it worth it to get toyota red? its had the green stuff in it for quite some time, all the time ive owned it (2yrs?) and it had it when i got it so prob all the time the kid before me owned it... minds well get the steering arm recall done now too...