hey i installed the lift over the weekend. i stuck the truck in 4x4 and i heard a clunking sound. so i turned the cvs to check for binding when on the ground. the pass side is good. but when i turn the drivers side. it turns over halfway then stops so then i have to force it then it turns and makes a clunk. i havent touched the tbars ever, the lower a arms were totally flat before lift. another thing ive noticed is that the driver lower arm is more steep than the passenger side.

 

When you installed the BJ spacers you let the lower a arm droop too low and pull the cv knuckle apart. You will likely need to pull the spacer back out to get the knuckle back together.

 

the boot doesnt look stretched tho but ill try that tommorow.

 

Also, did you test the 4wd out on dirt or on tarmac...?

 

Will the suspension compress? I had the same problem when I installed mine.

 

Drivers side boot looks a little more stretched than it should be. I beleive the above posts are correct.

 

After you fix the CV axle, I would level it out to get that Drivers side angle close to the passenger side. Save you from eating up tires.

 

Im guessing it isnt level because the cv is keeping the suspension from compressing completly.

 

the truck is level side to side though, thats the thing.. i dont understand why the drivers arm is more steep. im going to attempt aligning this thing tommorow using matt16's writeup

 

yeah it has to be cv stretched because the passenger cv doesnt even bind at all at full droop

 

I agree the CV probably separated while you had it apart and it didn't pop together on its own when you bolted everything back up. Might not be easy to pop back in now that you attempted to drive it

 

so how long did it take u to do this install? im looking at doing it to my 4runner in the next couple weeks, also with the diff drop.

 

so yeah i took out the spacer and put it back to stock height. the cv still turns then stops then i have to force it a tiny bit. when it droops i have to force once every revolution for it to turn. and i see it jumping around where the cv bolts onto the diff

 

it jumps when something binds

 

one of the joints (most likely the inner) in the axle was hyperextended in the process, and did not go back together properly. You'll need to remove the axle, then the boot, and re-assemble the joint.

 

You dont need to remove the boot. You can get them to go back together without doing so. And you dont even need to completly remove the cv either (if at all). Im not sure how easy it will be to get it back in place working against the torsion bar. I would disconnect one end of the cv, or the upper bj.

 

yeah i took everything apart today and saw that the inner boot was not hyperextended. so now im stumped. im pretty sure that the cv doesnt like the angle. but people on this forum stick in bj spacers and crank the t bars and they have no problems

 

does it move like it should now that u took it out? i would see about getting the diff drop and install that and your ball joint spacer back in,

 

if u look at this pic u can see that the boot are extended out ,circled in red, making it look that the joints popped out, if u look at the pic of the other side they are more ribbed like they should be.

 

On the inner joint, does the cap (the inner part that goes flush with the diff flange) have three dimples on it or no? I have found the ones without dimples (aftermarket CVs) don't allow the three tulip balls to rotate through the joint at high angles like that.