Helpful Info While Searching Thru Sea of Used T4Rs
#1
Helpful Info While Searching Thru Sea of Used T4Rs
I'm not a first time Yota owner but am new to the forums
I've been searching for a 96-02 4Runner for my wife and would be the first time owning one(all my others have been 22RE trucks) I'm trying to do my research but wondering if yall could help with any helpful hints or problem areas to play close attention to while looking for these things used. I know they say around every 90k timing belt is to be replaced. To look out for the strawberry milkshake(thats when the cooler inside the radiator busts aint it) that needs to be replaced and run seperate trans cooler. I'm looking at a 2WD 97 now with low miles but haven't pulled the trigger yet because I'd just like to be more well informed and hints to look for before I end up buying a pile of crap. Thanks a lot!

I've been searching for a 96-02 4Runner for my wife and would be the first time owning one(all my others have been 22RE trucks) I'm trying to do my research but wondering if yall could help with any helpful hints or problem areas to play close attention to while looking for these things used. I know they say around every 90k timing belt is to be replaced. To look out for the strawberry milkshake(thats when the cooler inside the radiator busts aint it) that needs to be replaced and run seperate trans cooler. I'm looking at a 2WD 97 now with low miles but haven't pulled the trigger yet because I'd just like to be more well informed and hints to look for before I end up buying a pile of crap. Thanks a lot!
#3
The inner axle seals, if gone, will let the differential fluid spill all over the axle. If they have been replaced, excellant.
For the radiator milkshake, look to see if a new radiator has been installed. Ask why if a new one has been installed. Pull out the transmission dipstick and take a look at the color and smell of the fluid. Most members here lately have been replacing their radiator and hoses for about $150 or going the external cooler route.
Also look at the upper and lower ball joints. Check around both valve covers to see if they are leaking in both the front and back. Grab the PCV vavle (in the passenger side valve cover) and pull it out to make sure it rattles. Open the air box and look at the air filter.
Timing belts seem to go forever. It is the idler pulleys or water pump that usually give out first.
And make sure you look under the oil filler cap to get an idea if the oil was changed regularly or not.
For the radiator milkshake, look to see if a new radiator has been installed. Ask why if a new one has been installed. Pull out the transmission dipstick and take a look at the color and smell of the fluid. Most members here lately have been replacing their radiator and hoses for about $150 or going the external cooler route.
Also look at the upper and lower ball joints. Check around both valve covers to see if they are leaking in both the front and back. Grab the PCV vavle (in the passenger side valve cover) and pull it out to make sure it rattles. Open the air box and look at the air filter.
Timing belts seem to go forever. It is the idler pulleys or water pump that usually give out first.
And make sure you look under the oil filler cap to get an idea if the oil was changed regularly or not.
#4
I see that others have said some of these and you know about the milkshake, but I just thought I'd list out all the problems the 4 3rd gens that my family has have experienced. These problems have happened on at least 2 of our 4 rigs.
1. rear axle seals failing
symptoms: axle grease everywhere. I've seen it spray up on the rear window, all over the driveway, etc. Maybe some other people can tell you what else to look for here.
2. key cylinder locking up
symptoms: key wont turn to start car, even with jiggling of steering wheel. Seems to start out small and get worse over time. Replacement of key cylinder is the solution.
3. starter contacts wear out
symptoms: car just clicks upon turning key, as if battery is dead. Usually takes a couple tries and then the car will start. Also starts out small and gets worse.
4. driver's seat bolt rips out
symptoms: in several people's rigs one of the driver's seat bolts rips right through the mount in the floorboard. The solution to this by many has been to drill right through the body, get a new bolt, and put a nut and washer on the underside of the car.
5. strawberry milkshake
symptoms: transmission fluid mixes with radiator fluid because of crack inside radiator. If the radiator is the original one, consider replacing it or adding an after market oil cooler to bypass the radiator.
Some general things to check:
Others have said PCV valve, air box, crankcase.
1. rear axle seals failing
symptoms: axle grease everywhere. I've seen it spray up on the rear window, all over the driveway, etc. Maybe some other people can tell you what else to look for here.
2. key cylinder locking up
symptoms: key wont turn to start car, even with jiggling of steering wheel. Seems to start out small and get worse over time. Replacement of key cylinder is the solution.
3. starter contacts wear out
symptoms: car just clicks upon turning key, as if battery is dead. Usually takes a couple tries and then the car will start. Also starts out small and gets worse.
4. driver's seat bolt rips out
symptoms: in several people's rigs one of the driver's seat bolts rips right through the mount in the floorboard. The solution to this by many has been to drill right through the body, get a new bolt, and put a nut and washer on the underside of the car.
5. strawberry milkshake
symptoms: transmission fluid mixes with radiator fluid because of crack inside radiator. If the radiator is the original one, consider replacing it or adding an after market oil cooler to bypass the radiator.
Some general things to check:
Others have said PCV valve, air box, crankcase.
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