hey am wondering what all you guys are doing to your 1stgen 4runners for huge clearance. Am kinda new to to all this just wondering what all is need to fit 36s with some room on a 1st gen 4runner. Are you just getting some bigger leafs and huge shackles or are you guys doing other things pics would be great keep in mind am a collage student and money is a bigg facter also what all needs to be extend when lifting these cars that high i know a drive shaft but what else thanks alot guys

 

I can fit 35's no problem.



I'd have to SEARCH around for anything else though...

 

well since 1st gen 4runners came with SFA..AND IFS....it'd be nice to know which you got..

if SFA, i bet you could get away with 4" of suspension lift with HI-Steer...

if you're IFS then 4" bracket lift, 3" body lift and you'll be fine..

and i agree with Logan, SEARCH YA NEWB! this is covered a lot lol

 

am sure it has been covered but other than the drive shaft what else needs to be extended on a 1st gen 4runner sfa just need to know what am getting into price wise so i can plan a head thanks for the fast response guys

 

well if you want to do it on the cheap, go with pro comp with new springs all the way around, should be like ~$500

Hi-steer is almost a MUST..it's ~$350 i believe..so for $1000 (gotta figure in shipping) you'll have yourself a lift to fit 36's...although it won't ride the best lol..

or you could save up for a marlin, TG, AP, or similar springs...but they're expensive lol

 

If you lift it, you will need longer stainless flex brake lines all around. Longer shocks, if you want any flex, and probably relocated shock mounts to go with them.

You can trim your fenders for clearance, though welding is required on the rear fenders once trimmed.

 

Rears up front and 63" chevies will net you a much better suspension than anything procomp sells. It'll also give you enough suspension to start at 36's, and then just cut to fit bigger.

 

sorry guys new to all forums and really did not even know about the search button until you mentioned it guess that makes me a super newbie but i keep on hearing that guys are using 63 Chevy rear springs and move the rears up front thinking of going doing that since it seems to be the most popular any kits out there for the swap or tips you can give me would help a lot and i will keep on using this magic search button

 

HAHAHA i forgot about the RUF+63's lol!!! sorry it's been awhile since i've been a SA guy, i'm all IFS now

 

4" suspension lift, thats it. Throw some 36's on.

 

I rubbed with 33's on my 4" ifs lift.

I agree with what was said earlier.. Do some ruf's and either chevys or ford f150 springs out back. Longer shocks, longer brake lines, and get high steer.

 

well...ifs and sfa lifts are extremely different 904 LOL

just for the record...my 33's don't rub on my 4runner with a 4" bracket lift LOL

 

its a sfa i found these link and figure i would show some people who might want to do the swap

RUF:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...hlight=ruf+faq

63 chevy rear:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ight=chevy+faq

but i still have a questions that i could not find the answer for

When doing this lift you have to move the front axle forward what all has to be done to do this?

 

Yeah I guess backspacing is the 2nd variable. I run 35's on a 4" lift with 3.75 backspacing, 8" wide rim, and I don't rub, even flexing (as much as IFS flexes lol)

 

i always thought the rear springs moved the front axle froward automatically? im actually gonna be runnin this setup. RUF 63s and 36x12.50 TSLs. gettin the tires next week. on your ? about the kit and where to buy one.. most junkyards sell the kit sky-manufacturing.com sells a kit for teh new hangers and shackles and whatnot. youll also need to need think about gears if its a DD.

 

Putting the rears up front moves the axle forward.

You hopefully already have high steer. If not, you should get that ASAP. The stock steering is even worse than the IFS stock steering, and that is pretty amazing.

You will need to move the steering box forward likely, so the tie rod and drag link don't hit each other on stuff.

Pretty easy stuff, just a bit of welding, and maybe cutting on the radiator support, depending on how far forward you move it.

 

Just curiosity, but why 36's? What are you using the truck for? You are aware that you will have to re-gear to push that much rubber right?