Ok, just had to post this after all of the work that has gone into my rig. Started last year with general maintainence to get the truck ready for some serious upgrades. Here's a list of the goodies that I put on it generally in order...

(2000 Tacoma SR5 4wd extra cab/std bed)

alcohol injection system 3" before T/B
bilstein 5150's x4
arb winch bumper (75lbs i think?)
deckplate mod
magnaflow 2.5" exhaust (cat back)
doug thorley shorty headers
trd supercharger, urd fuel/timing upgrade kit
urd supergrip pulley (2.2")
5gph nozzle on alcohol injection

Other than the bumper, there is no additional weight; will be curious to see what it can do for a 1/4 mile time....

Anyway, here are the dyno results after a 5 hour tuning session...


Original run before tune came up with 163 hp /234 torque...

Final run was a bit better than expected, 227hp at the wheels/250 max torque!! she drives like a dream.

Boost peaked at 8.09psi using the smaller (not smallest) pulley from urd.

Anyway, there it is; it's an old truck with some new life!

 

sweet deal. Maybe when i start throwing my sc in my truck we can compare notes?

 

sounds good, love to hear about other folks yotas to compare. forgot to add, I put the S/C on at 131k miles, I just turned over 135k. Thanks to URD's FTC unit, I've never had a check engine light or any problems. Wasn't sure what to expect on that first start but all went well!

I'll try to get some pics uploaded of the alcohol system but other than the bumper, my truck is stock in appearance.

good luck and shoot me any questions you have. Overall, TRD and URD's kit instructions were pretty straightforward and easy to follow, very pleased with URD especially on their products and reputation.

Also a thanks to Devil's Own injection system, I will probably switch from a voltage controller to a boost controller as I'm only picking up 10hp with the meth; I was getting more gains than that with N/A prior to the supercharger.

 

Was that the 2.2"?

 

yeah, I put the 2.2" pulley from URD on it the day I went in for the tune. I didn't get the smallest one but wanted something a little better than stock

TRD claims 6-7 psi with stock pulley, which is ALL you'll get. The first pull on the dyno actually had a slightly higher peak boost pressure of 8.20

 

Nm....

 

Just to clarify, when you say URD fuel/timing upgrade kit, are you referring to the FTC or a 7th injector setup?

 

So can you beat drag racing something like a stock RAV4 now?

 

I have URD's 'fuel/timing upgrade kit' which has injectors (318cc bosch), fuel pump (190lph), IK22 spark plugs and the FTC unit (Fuel/Timing Calibrator) which is wired into the ECU and has a boost line running into it from the SC. I don't have the 7th injector as I am running methanol instead.

Apparantly this is the kit that the TRD SC needs as the stock fuel delivery is inadequate. The FTC unit tricks the ECU so that you can do your own fuel/ignition maps without fighting the stock ECU. to tune, you need an OBD scan tool and software available for $40-200+ as well as a wide band scanner to record your air/fuel ratios. Don't save your money on the tune, I picked up an easy 65hp just from tuning the fuel map; if you spend all the money on these upgrades, make it work right!!

I've heard of lots of folks with great results with the 7th injector though. More air = more fuel (= faster).

and yeah, death to the rav4's out there hahaha

 

A boost switched Water/Meth system is a good idea but make sure they have one that comes on that low. Also all the power is picked up with water/meth injection in the timing. I picked up 90HP on my Supra with water/meth and tuning the timing. Also if you are tuning with water/meth let it run a bit on the rich side (11.0-11.5 A/F) and get your power out of the timing changes. there is way more power to be had with timing than fuel tuning.

When tuning the timing though I would always use knock ears and if you have not done a lot of tuning get a reputable tuner to do it for you. Also do not push for every last HP.

Good luck, sounds like a fun setup.

 

What did you mean by that low? What's the best boost level to set it at?


Where do you put the sensors for that, or do you use the factory knock sensors?

 

Its not so much a sensor, its a clip you place on the block and it goes to an Amp box that then turns it into a signal that you get though head phones. Its like a Dr. checking your heart beat but on an en engine. When the engine pings you can hear a loud snap in the knock ears.

As a disclaimer I do not have a 5vz and have not boosted or tuned one. I have tuned and done lots of work on my Supra and the tuning principals are the same.

 

just an update, still going strong with my setup, I'm due for a re-tune after I weld my exhaust (I have a pre-cat leak because I'm lazy and haven't welded my magnaflow yet) so I'm losing some tune there with my AFR's. I really need to buy a WB scanner to put in permanently w/ a gauge as this is my DD rig. Got 138,800 on it now, a good 7-8000 miles on the SC and no issues. my buddy can't believe I SC'd my rig and did all this with the miles I have on the motor; I just tell him that it's a Toyota and it's just starting to 'break in' the engine after 100k LOL...

Anyway, plan on learning to use my software better as time goes on, can't afford much more professional tuning; I'm using URD's Rx4 software that came with the FTC unit; it's only got the 2 parameters for tuning the fuel/timing vs. 'race cars' running 6 or more parameters but it's a great setup regardless. In conjunction, a Wideband scanner is necessary for the AFR and I also have a Palmer Performance Engineering OBD-II software (almost $200 but awesome, comes with the interface cables), you can diagnose and clear engine codes and read pretty much every sensor and parameter off of your ECU. (for OBD-II both CAN and the other two, sorry I'm rusty on my ECU diagnostic system types....)

Anyway, if anyone wants any insight to any of the software stuff I use, it's all very helpful and I have gotten much better and more knowledgeable about tuning this engine from both the software and Yotatech + other online resources; can't wait to blow it up so I can put some racing camshafts in it hahaha. I'm pretty much a neanderthal learning this stuff as I go and want to see others succeed as tuning is extremely important if you're shelling out this kind of $$ for these upgrades!

My goal is to get my intake rebuilt and meth inj/timing better tuned so I can show up you 7th inj guys pushing 250+RWHP to my 227!

Really though, I'm looking for longevity and max efficiency of this engine vs. max HP

 

aa1911 i'm feeling the same thing. Don't want all the power in the world just a little more while keeping the truck as daily as possible.

 

yeah, I joke about how I can't wait for my engine to blow up so I can bore it out and put some LC engineering racing cams in it ($800 for the set of 4) but really I need longevity as this is my DD rig. I'm not rich either so an engine rebuild would delay my other projects.

Good luck with your install- let me know how it goes or if I can help with any tech stuff

 

BTW with LCE cams you need the install kit which is 1k.
I bought cams from coltcams.com... 600 bucks for the set.

 

yeah, I saw that too... with all the work to rebuild and set these cams up, it would be cheaper to buy a new engine for sure!

looking for a rebuilt 5vz for my 93 4runner too, there's a local guy here in gig harbor that will provide the engine and do the swap for $2800 total, pretty amazing. He sells the engines for $2k without the install and includes a bunch of the stuff you need. I might go with cams on that one in lou of a SC.

 

installed a new custom air intake today after doing some clean up of my horn wiring (finally put a relay in with a better power supply on the load end so I didn't blow another fuse) and had the radiator off (to access a wire loom), battery out and intake out so I figured since I had all the components for my rebuild of the intake already in my garage, why not?

used a tube from Autozone and a spectre filter, cleaned the MAF with some CRC cleaner and cleaned a bunch of wiring looms up, remounted the alcohol injection nozzle using pipe a pipe tap on the chrome tube. didn't take any pics yet, it's not really that exciting anyway... basically an ISR mod after getting bored with the stock rubber intake and box... need to wrap it with some insulating tape and build a new airbox for the filter to isolate it from the engine compartment heat and any chance water.

now I still need to get a wideband scanner so I can do a good re-tune. drives good, not really a big change so no big surprise. Feels like there's more power but I've also been driving my 3.0 4runner for a couple days so can't really say much has changed; more robust whine from the SC sucking in wind....

 

Here's some pics of my frankenstein intake; added some hot water heater insulation and covered that with aluminum tape and secured with zip ties. looks ghetto but should keep the intake pipe from getting hotter than hell like it has been. Also a shot of my homemade 'airbox', it actually works pretty well especially with the insulation added; still sucking some air in from the hot engine bay but feels like it has more pep after the engine bay is warmed up compared to before. maybe I'm just imagining things but the cone filter alone has helped; probably picking up a tiny bit extra boost with this less restricted intake tract.

I constructed the airbox from aluminum flashing and pop rivets from home depot and painted it with insulating rubber paint, made some small brackets to bolt into. not a professional look but I'm not worried about it, can't see thru the hood... besides, I have those sweet crappy air horns to distract you... those things are freakin' ugly

 

OK, just bought Innovative Motor sports wideband scanner (LM-I single channel) off of Amazon for just under $300 shipped. got my XP laptop fixed today so I can use all of my tuning software, I will update this with the results of my tuning skills (which have a long way to go yet btw)

Truck stalls at idle about once every 100 stops or so after I rebuilt my intake, there's obviously some tuning to do to smooth out the idle ALL the time although it still runs hard and strong. above 1000 RPM. I might put it back on the dyno this winter after I do some good street tuning to see what if any change in peak HP/Torque there is after 20k.