(new guy) recent reman 3vze long block in 90 4runner, having trouble!
Hello everyone and thanks ahead of time for any and all help & input.

I just finished an engine job on a 1990 4runner 3vze automatic tranny. this is my fourth toyota but first 4runner. After putting in the engine and doing the initial 500 mile breakin the thing ran great. At 500 miles we changed oil and filter and removed the intake so we could retorque head bolts per warranty rules. we also put on a new timing belt, because the other new one was slapping the cover and scribed a line all the way around it. so we figured we should just put on another new one just in case. After reassembly and driving for a bit I noticed a lack of throttle response and overall power. the check engine light came on and we got codes 25, 26. Ok no big deal rite, we replaced the o2 sensor and cat. put in all new plugs, replaced vafm, all new vaccum lines, and have checked, checked and rechecked the timeing both crank and at the distr. other things/symptoms after a long trip my gas tank is seriously over pressurized not just the normal psst. when you take of the gas cap but like a full 60 seconds of vaccum sound and after filling it up it will actually try to push the fuel out. we are waiting on a piece for my buddies pressure gauge so we can test my fuel pressure. I have a feeling that my fuel press. regulator is bad. the plugs on the driverside bank I believe 2,4,6 were really rich and wet when I replaced them. Not sure what else it could be besides injectors. anybody else have any suggestions? thanks again and sorry for the longish post.

 

check your timing

 

I have checked it several times now both at the crank and at the distr. I am sure it is not timing related. Thanks

 

check your cam timing and don't trust the crank pulley they spin quite often its possible your belt is a little off and how in the hell do you check torque on a torque to yield head bolt?

 

Fuel Presure, Fuel Filter is a place to start

 

I hate to tell you this but if you used the proper head bolts (torque to yield) retorquing is not only unnecessary but harmful. The head bolts are a one-time use part and should be replaced if they are ever loosened. I would replace the head gaskets and head bolts and follow the FSM torquing procedure, and nowhere in the FSM does it recommend retorquing the head bolts. The warranty may have been a generic form requiring retorquing. Other Toyota engines do not use TTY head bolts and can be retorqued but not this one.

 

ENGBLDR sells grade 12.9 headbolts for the 3vze that are NOT TTY. Those headbolts are recommended to be retorqued after a 500 mile break in. Perhaps OP is using them in place of the OEM bolts?

Personally I think your timing belt is off by one tooth...

 

thanks for the input guys, it all helps. It is possible the timing is the issue, I am thinking about putting the other belt back on and making darn sure the timing is correct. As for the head bolts me and my buddy the mechanic both thought the same thing about the torque to yield bolts so we just slightly checked them with his tourque wrech to make sure they were at least to fsm spec. His guage part should be here soon, so I will wait to mess with timing until we test fuel pressure and know for sure if the FPR is bad. I will keep you updated as I continue the trouble shooting. and thanks again. here is a photo of the (redrunner)

 

How did you know what the final torque value was?

IIRC, the torque sequence goes something like this- Torque all headbolts to 35 ft lbs in sequence. Then tighten them 1/4 turn in sequence, and finally once more in sequence tighten them 1/4 turn and they are done.

How could you check that with respect to a certain torque value?

 

well we did not know the exact sequence and we were very skeptical alltogether about putting anymore torque on them at all. But the company I purchased the engine from gave a list of things to do to make sure the warranty would be valid and they said to retorque at 500 miles so we just basically put his digital torque wrench on each one and made sure that they were at the specified ft/lbs wich they all were so we did not even tighten any of them anyways

 

keep in mind this was my very first experience with any mechanical work, and my buddy really helped me out a bunch. I learned alot about the 3vze while doing it and have had alot of fun also. I just hope I can figure this thing out soon.

 

Finally, do it ended up being a big dumbass mistake after all. When we took off the intake to do the 500 mile inspection apparently the wiring harness for the #1 injector got pulled loose and remained unnoticed. we were pulling it off again to put on a new fuel pressure regulator and gasket and found the loose connection. put it back on buttoned everything up again and wala. Runs like a top and so far no more code 25/26. Wow sometimes it can turn out to be the stupidest thing. at least we found it before I decided to take it to the dealer. So big oops on our part but the redrunner is back in full force. yippeee. Thanks for all the help and input.

 

Good to hear man, looks like a clean rig

 

thanks, yeah it is really clean. thats what caught my eye 5 months ago when I bought it. I didn't have it 2 months and the engine went out. $3,500 in parts and labor later she runs as good as she looks. with 7,500 now into it I will run this sucker for a long time as a daily driver. my engine was about 1,850 with a 7year 70000 mile war. and the rest was labor and a new cat, new o2, new FPR, new a/c compress. new vaccum lines and all new plugs,wires,cap&rotar. This thing should go for a long time (knocking on wood) Looking forward to putting some mods on as soon as I recover from the maintenance expenses.