Help, my since I dont know any better.

1994 V6 Manual transmission 4X4 with 119K miles.

Symptom:
When I accelerate from low speed or especially when I take my foot off the gas, I hear a thug from below. Drove me nuts for years. I was told to replace my u-joints. As such, I removed it and had the local auto store replaced the ujoints. They told me that they were dry, but not loose.

Before I removed the driveshaft, I twisted and turned the shaft. It was loose. It would twist a good amount and it would make the same thug noise. The noise went away when I drove only in 4x4 with the shaft removed. Furthermore, I see fluid marks as I point out on the picture.

Is there anything I need to do before I reinstall this driveshaft to what ever this other end is called? Do I have to tighten the bolt in the middle of what ever this part is called?

Many thanks for your help.

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That fluid is differential fluid, basically gear oil. It's leaking from the pinion shaft seal. Since you have the shaft out anyway it's a good time to replace that seal.

I also recommend checking the fluid in the rear end. If it's been leaking for a while then you are probably low on fluid.

Hope this helps.

 

That part is the third member. The fluid is differential gear oil. There is an oil seal in there that probably needs replaced. I believe it's called the pinion oil seal.

 

Many thanks for the heads up. I have a seal puller I purchased from Sears not too long ago. So Im off to find out on this forum:

How do I remove the bolt so I can replace the pinion seal? I dont know if I have to secure it before removing the bolt.

Second, what the torque setting is after I replace the seal.

I've got the tools, just not the expertise. You've got me off to a good start.

Cheers

 

This might help.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...eal/index.html

 

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...5/contents.htm

You'll need some gear oil also.....IMO you should use the OEM seal and a new pinion nut from Toyota.

 

I will buy the gear oil, oil seal and pinion nut from Toyota.

What puzzles me is do I need to hold the flange as I remove the pinion nut? Does this have to be secured so the nut will lossen. The manual gives an ST09330-00021 tool to use, but I cant seem to find a picture of it.

Thanks again for teaching me..many many thanks.

 

Thank T4L...this is great, but wondering if I have th hold the flange to R&R the bolt. errr..what tool do I use?

I got underneath the truck. I cant find an axel breather tube or in the manual.

Cheers.

 

I just did my rear pinion tonight

this is how it went

 

Pretty much, put the ebrake on, mark where the pinion nut lines up to the pinion, attemp to open up the steak mark, if not use a breaker bar to unbolt the bolt. Count how many rotations until the bolt falls off, the seal might be a pita, mine sure was and i ended up killng it without touching the pinion..

 

Set e-brake...who would have thought? I dont need that flange holder after all.

You guys are geniuses.

You all R O C K ! ! ! Thank you.

 

You'll also need a small punch/chisel to un-stake the pinion nut, be careful of the pinion's threads.

 

Okay, forgot about that one.

Now I am searching on the forum for a good Toyota Internet Dealership I can order parts from. I have a good one for Honda, but never had one for a Toyota. A Toyota parts seller that supports this forum is ideal for me to order from.

thanks again Ray

 

Where are you located?
I use Titus Will Toyota Tacoma WA
but there is also
Toyota of Dallas
also
http://www.marlincrawler.com/ would have all that also.

This will also come in handy......
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/

 

One important thing to consider: if the seal is gone / worn / leaking... there's a reason why.

So, what caused the seal to wear and require replacement?

 

Thanks Ray, you are a huge help tonight. The TRD4Uparts and a couple in Dallas are not as good as I am use to. Typically, I see a good diagram of what I am buying and easy searches. The Hondaautomotiveparts.com is a prime example. I will look at the other sites tomorrow...gotta go to bed.

I guess the seals just got old. Maybe 118K miles is what did it. Luckily it is an easy fix. Now my next project is changing the valve cover gaskets cuz of an oil leaking. This will be a real task for me.

Cheers.

 

Good point Abe....

arielb1-Check for play at the pinion flange-
Freeplay should be basically non-existent.

this is what low oil does for the pinion bearings/race.....

 

Guys, I was looking at the manual differe2.pdf. It shows on page 23 that the drive pinion nut torque to be 145-243 ft lbs - or (197-343nm). Why is this such a big discrepancy from post #5 where he states 90ft-lbs? This is a big difference.

Ray, what do you mean by free play? Does the Flange wiggle side to side? Do you mean it should just glide as it rotates without any giving or wobble?

 

Because what you are setting is the pinion bearing preload, and the actual final adjustment is measured with a beam style in/lb torque wrench. With the tires off you measure rotating force it takes to turn the pinion.

Roll under truck and grab right at the pinion flange and shake up and down shouldn't really move at all.

 

Ray, you so Rock

I need to get to bed now. Tomorrow I will shake the flange. If it shakes up and down, then it appears I will have to take apart (will need to learn) to change bearings. I think this is my problem since it is the jerking motion I am feeling when I let my foot off the accelerator and that the drive shaft rotates freely when I twist it by hand.

I hope I dont dream about this tonight. Hopefully there is a way to see the bearings when I get the flange off. It appears if the flange shakes up and down that I will need to replace bearings.

Thank you so much for teaching me. You gave me good Karma tonight. I learned so much. I will update tomorrow when I shake the flange...night. Again thank you.