How many of you change your own spark plugs, specifically on the 3.4L V6?

Do you have a special tool, do you use socket wrench extenders? How many? Do you duct-tape them together? Do you remove/peel back the intake plenum? Etc. Etc. I'm just curious.

 

Ratchet with extra long extension
Telescoping (magnetic) retrievment tool
Torque Wrench
Dielectric Grease

The magnetic retriever is handy when trying to get the plug out of the valve cover. The socket wont hold it unless you have a plug gasket.

I usually torque to about 17lbs.

Piece of cake.

 

I've done it. Used one, maybe two extensions. They fasten together the same way socket clip onto a ratchet. I have a socket specifically designed for spark plugs. Takes me about an hour to replace the six plugs and the wires. Can probably be done faster though.

 

Al,

I changed mine without having to move anything but some hoses out of the way.

I had two long extensions together for the DS plugs...at least for the one closest to the firewall. I didn't have any trouble at all.

I also have a spark plug socket, so the plug does stay in the socket when you pull it out.

 

Guys,

Some questions as I am going to change my plugs within the month:

1) is it a good idea to change the spark wires when you change the plugs?

2) do the plugs come pre-gapped? (ie. i dont wanna buy a tool I dont need)

3) anything else that needs to be changed or replaced?

Thanks,
Bob

 

No, that isn't necessary. Just a simple inspection for corrosion and wear of the wires and boots will suffice.

Yes. Any good multi-ground electrode plug will come pre-gapped. That includes the plugs from Toyota, which is what I run.

No, not really. You may find something that needs replacing, but that is unlikely on a Toyota.

 

You can get a gapping tool at the counter of almost any autoparts store for about 99 cents.

 

I do it. But that's on my 3.slow.

 

Changed them tonight, wasn't too bad. Saved myself $50 (Canadian). I had to use 4 x 3" extensions, I had no longer ones. Actually I used 6 in total, just to make it even easier. Duct-taped them all together so it wouldn't leave them in the engine after tightening the new spark plugs in there. Bit of a hassle removing this & that to get to the plugs, but it's done. Once a year...I can handle that. Thx for all the feedback boys.

Manual said to torque them to 20 ft/lb but I only torqued them to 17 ft/lb. Not much difference, I'm sure it'll be fine.

Al

 

guess im late. i pop the intake hose off, its nice to have it out of the way, but also when changing the plugs seems like a good time to clean the tb. i even lube it now thanks to you guys.

 

Christian,

Thanks for the answers. It's getting close to 80k so I'll be doing the service items that I can and leave the rest (like timing belt) to my dealership.

Bob

 

I heard one plug for OEM spark plugs but I have also heard that the Bosch are good as well.

Any special spark plugs I need to know about to replace the OEM ones with when it comes time? I've got about 45K now, but I think the spark plugs are part of the routine replacement at 60K.

Any recommendations for a spark plug? Any not to use?

Thanks!



Brian

 

I would avoid Bosch +4's. They may burn a little too hot for your 4Runner & cause damage. Some say they've run them w/no problems but I'd rather avoid them than become the first one w/an "engine problem Bosch sparkplug horror story". Toyota factory copper plugs work best in my opinion, for performance & price. Otherwise I'd go with NGK.

 

I use the Boshe with the 2 prongs below the platnum 4.
I takes 10 minutes to change plugs, Good thing to learn espesially if you have ever hydrolcked and engine.
The problems with these type of plugs is that there is too much fire and no enough room for the fuel/air mixture. They run too hot and are not as effecient as the two prong plugs. Splitfire are crap and are not as effecient as a plug with only 2 prongs. Know nothing about Toyota plugs.

 

hey guys,

some more newbie spark plug change questions:

- dielectric grease: do the spark plugs already come with it smeared on it? if not, do you spread alot of this on the threads? or just a little thin film? what does it do anyways? keeps it from seizing or promote conductivity?

- cap and rotors: i ordered my spark plug and spark plug wires today from partznet. he suggested that i change the wires too since im at 80K. he also suggested that i change the cap and rotors. is this a good idea?

finally, what exactly is a "tune up"? is the stuff i mentioned above (including the cap and rotor replacement) considered a tune up? Or is there more to it?

thanks,
Bob

 

- dielectric grease: do the spark plugs already come with it smeared on it? if not, do you spread alot of this on the threads? or just a little thin film? what does it do anyways? keeps it from seizing or promote conductivity?

-Sparkies don't come w/it anti-seize stuff already on, so you have to do it yourself. I just use anti-seize stuff on the threads before installing them. I don't know what dielectric grease is.


- cap and rotors: i ordered my spark plug and spark plug wires today from partznet. he suggested that i change the wires too since im at 80K. he also suggested that i change the cap and rotors. is this a good idea?

They wear down over time, so it's probably not a bad idea to change those out.


finally, what exactly is a "tune up"? is the stuff i mentioned above (including the cap and rotor replacement) considered a tune up? Or is there more to it?

There's more to it. This is just some of the items involved in a tune-up. Minor tune-ups involve a lot of checking & inspecting. Major tune-ups involve a lot of replacing. Some other minor/major tune-up items include:

-adjust ignition timing
-adjust idle speed
-replace fuel filter
-adjust drivebelts
-replace the PCV valve

etc. etc.

 

Ummm......

We don't got no caps and rotors on our 4Runners (3rd gens).

We have a distributorless ignition. Coil packs over each plug on the left bank.

 

Ummm...yes. I thought about mentioning that when I was typing earlier. However, I didn't. Hrmm...why. Hrmm...I think I'm losing it. Well there are distributors in the 4-cyl up to 1997. But Bob's heh. It's a 98. And it says V6 in his sig. So what I'm saying really doesn't apply. Damnit Tom, I'm losing it... Thanks for pointing that out.

 

Haha...no prob.... that's a good point though about 4 cyl.'s, I didn't know they were different.

 

ha ha, i use to have to pump the water out of #3 to start mine (before the new engine). that sucked!! it was the one right under my intake hose too, oh well, i did get pretty quick at it. nothing like a cylinder full of coolant.