Ok, so got the spring off the valve, and the seals were really gnarled, like they just didn't look like they were installed properly. I tried installing one myself, and they are REALLY hard to get off and back on. Here is my problem, aside from the obvious. I had the top half apart not to long ago to change timing chain guide and components. The head was at the machine shop, old valve stem seals got re-used, long story short it was a miss communication. Ok, so it uses oil now, and now i can see why.
A: So, i don't know if it was because the machine shop re-used the old seals and that it why they looked broken, or
B:if they just installed them improperly.
I got the same results they did, not really knowing if my replacement procedure was correct or not. I don't have any idea, maybe the valve stem guides are warn or warped or something, so thats why they don't go on right, or maybe that machine shop really didn't know what was going on. At this point i'm trying to find out if i need to go to a different machine shop or not.

 

did you use new seals? If they are new, they should go on nice with a drop of oil. Kev

 

Ok, so there is something wrong here, and yes, i have new seals, any ideas why they wouldn't go on smoothly ??

 

maybe the valve stem tip has excessive wear. Did you oil the seals?Kev

 

tip ?? what do you mean by tip. It doesn't want to go on at all, from the point that you put it on, and all the way down the valve stem. yes i lubed it.

 

Ok, so on the package it said the valve stem seals were good for about 5 other vehicles, they are Felpro, so they aren't cheapo parts. Do you think getting OE seals would make a difference. Being that the seals fit multiple vehicles it leads me to believe that they are generic seals. anybody have any ideas about whats going on ??

 

I use a seal installer made by Moroso, purchased from Summit. It pushes the seal on squarely, using hand pressure.

 

1)alot of makes, models, and engines use the same valve seals and the seals are exact fits but check your P/N using felpro's or Mr. Gasket's websites (better than autozone or advance trying to do it).

2)Check the tip of the valve for mushrooming. it should be tapered in at the very top just slightly

3)Check the Diameter of your valve stems they may be oversized stems if the head had been worked prior to you working on it. You're machinist can give you the specs for valve stem diameter. It's a semi common procedure done when the valve guides are worn (knurling or new guides is better IMO) in which case you and your machinist will be having a long talk over trying to find the proper seals (GM positive seals were the most common to use when I did it)

 

ok, in the event the valve stems are oversized, via the guids being worn, i would much rather just replace everything back to factory specs. In that case, would Toyota have valve stems ?? or are valve stems the top of the valve ?? seal tool my problem is size, but yeah, i'll just have to make sure to talk to my machine shop, .... this is going to be a process i can just feel it.. yay...

 

Ok, so does anyone know what the OE diameter is of the valve stems ?? I'm going to send the head off to the machine shop today, so i'll see whats what, probably tomorrow.

 

About the OE valve stem diameter, I would invest in a Toyota shop manual for your model/year truck, best reference you can have, and also stick with original Toyota parts, may cost more, but its what makes Toys so durable, long lasting and trouble-free.

 

this thread is over a decade old.... i'm am so confused right now. maybe you are a bot. i dunno.... that would make sense.