Long story cut short, took my 4Runner in for an oil change (usually do it myself) awhile back at a Goodyear shop, they charged for an oil change, I paid for it and I took the truck home. A month later I went to change my oil, pulled the drain plug, and the blackest tar poured out. I went to change the oil filter and it was the same one I installed before the previous oil change at the Goodyear shop. So they charged me for the oil change, and it didn't get changed.

I went back in, explained what happened, they researched who changed my oil, and indicated that the tech had been fired. I asked who was going to pay for the damages to my truck. They offered a free oil change.

I told them no thanks and got a free tire rotation, whatever.

I changed the oil most recently to 10w40, and noticed that I'm going through about two quarts every 300 miles. The other day my truck starts blowing a little white smoke out the back.

Should I switch to a heavier oil to eliminate (or reduce) any oil getting through the rings?

 

switching to a heavier oil won't hurt anything so you could try that.

 

You can, but if your rings are worn then it's just going to be a bandaid on the problem.

Are you sure it's rings and not valve stem seals?

It also seems to me that if you were burning that much oil (2 quarts every 300 miles), then you would have more smoke than just a little puff. Have you checked your coolant and oil to make sure you haven't had a headgasket go?

 

It's a possibility, but I just had the top end replaced a year ago. What's odd is that I replaced the old cracked head with a new one from JC Enterprises, and the valves are pretty noisy. The guy that installed it said it sounded fine to him (BS), and it's been adjusted once since then.

I was using a little bit of oil before the most recent oil change, but since switching to the lighter weight the oil consumption has increased, a bunch.

Coolant level drops maybe a quart or so every three weeks, but I think that's do to a leaky hose.

 

id do a compression check either way. and might as well do a leakdown

 

I'll definately check the compression.
Not to sound like a complete newb, but what's a leakdown?

 

leakdown is when you pressurize the engine with air, and see if it holds pressure. it will check to see if you have blowby. though dont do it without someone else here telling you what to pressurize it to... i know you pressurize the radiator to maybe 12psi to find leaks, but im not sure about the engine

 

I'll do it. Well, I'll have a tech do it.

Anyone know the correct PSI for a leakdown?

Also, if I'm running 10w40 and I want a heavier oil, which oil do some of you guys recommned?

 

there isn't a correct pressure for a leakdown.
what it tells you is if you have leaking valves or rings.
...for the valves- there will be hissing in the intake or exhaust from escaping air...
...or for the rings- how quickly the pressure reduces due to leakage around the rings tells the tech how worn they are.
basically, a compression test will tell you if your compression is okay, and if it's not a leakdown test will tell you were the problem is.

as for oil weight, go with a straight 40 or 50 weight.

 

Don't go over 15w-40. You will start hurting your engine.

 

my haynes manual says to run 30w.. unless it gets below 15 degrees fahrenheit!

 

You could send your oil in for a UOA. It will tel you whats going on even if you dont have enough water leaking thru to se in your oil.

 

A little update:

I noticed that when the block is completely to the "full" mark, I burn a little oil. When the the oil level drops, no smoke. That's got me thinking that the valve stem seals are the problem. Just seems strange since I replaced the head with a re-man a year ago.

I'm not seeing any blowby out the exhaust either. I'm sure the PCV valve needs to be replaced. Couldn't hurt.

 

Eh I run Delo 400 15w-40 in ALL my vehicles lol. Aint done me wrong yet. The yoter loves those diesel additives

 

well, as much as I hate to counter what others here post, if your outdoor temps are not falling below freezing there is no reason to use any XXw-XX oil. The w means 'winter'. If it's not winter, you don't need to use any 'w' weight oil. So you could use a 15-40 or even 20-50 multi-weight oil (note-no 'w'). Or even straight 40 weight or even 50 weight oil.

 

I'll give the straight 40 weight a try. I don't usually see it on the shelf at my auto parts store, but I'll ask them about it. It's been 3 days now without any smoke, and the oil level is close to full.???

 

Whys that? I just switched to 20w50 to see if thicker oil will help my smoking problem...It did help the smoke, but I can still smell a little burned oil when I reverse and the exaust comes my way.

 

fyi: i had my top end redone six mos. ago after HG failure (22re). took it to a place for an oil change cuz i was busy and it was due...about a week later i notice the little puff of blue smoke in the a.m. at first start. i check the oil a few days later and see its almost a quart short.

i called shop and ask what oil they put in, they indicated 5w30.
I added a quart of 10w40 i had on hand. still puffing a little smoke, making me wonder about stem seals and if the dude rebuilt my head right.

week went by, i check oil again, its over half quart low. i added 20w50 "hi mileage". over next week, i add remainder of that quart.

smoke is no longer visible in the a.m. i'm still monitoring consumption.

i JUST YESTERDAY took it for emissions test. the dude said it passed easily, he even remarked "its not burning oil". i laughed. (like, where's it going then?) hopefully the thick did the trick.

my dad used to put 20w50 in all his 4 cyl cars, vw's, toys, etc. when i was little. i think i will stick with it for the summer and drop to 15-40 for winter.

just sharing my exp. take as $.02 only. good luck with your issue!