http://store.4wheelingplus.com/prodd...od=733S&cat=83 do i need to get any thing else for this lift or should i be ok.

 

It looks like everything is there that you'll need, even drops for the sway bar mounts on the frame, but if you anticipate some hard use on the kit, the bump stop drops (the 2x4" rectangular tubing pieces) will bend on hard compression and will then allow you to over-compress the suspension risking damage to the shocks, shafts and joints. If they have available 'kickers' from the rear IFS truss to the frame, I recommend those as well since they will help prevent the suspension from flexing towards the rear of the truck.
also, I'm not a fan of blocks for lift and would prefer to use new leafs instead, particularly if the truck will see some hard use off road.

while your under it, maybe steering stabilizer replacement is in order and check your ball joints, tie rods and control arm bushings.

 

X2 check everything. I needed tie rods, pitman arm. still need them too

 

I would run new leaf springs instead of blocks but that is just my personal preference

 

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kits...t_pn=EXPK5054B oh ok how about this its pro comp

 

i will prob just stay with the Rough Country and do all the stuff you guys just said and put a rear locker in it. i want to make it look and some what be a Desert Race Truck

 

hmm... pro comp... rough country... both have blocks in the rear and questionable compression bump stops.

 

so what type of lift would be best. i only have 850

 

what do you expect the truck to do after the lift is installed?

 

take it up to mtn. baker and just hit some light trails, maybe some sand

 

I still don't like the idea of lift blocks so I'll still warn you about that- blocks have a tendency to cause the springs to twist, particularly if the tires have to put a lot of torque down to the ground. That's why I prefer new leaf springs over blocks.
If you're not doing hard core rock crawling or high speed desert running, the rough country kit will do well for you.
I may still suggest asking about 'kickers' from the frame to the IFS gear though.

 

ya i already looked in to that. i have some on the way. and would a lock right locker be good for the snow to. and im going to switch to new leafs

 

I don't get snow where I live (well, not enough to make a difference) in the Temecula Valley of California, so I can't recommend a specific LSD/locker combination, but I would think that you'd want limited slip up front (so the truck goes where you point) first, and then maybe some extra traction in the back if the front wheels can't pull you around.
But that's just my opinion, and what I wish my Scirocco's would've had as an option. Nothing is more frustrating than pointing at where you want to go but not having that push to get there.

 

on my old 75 chevy i had a detroit EZ locker in the rear (same basic concept as the lock right) and an open front end. Not sure if you are familiar with the hills around Western, but if you know the 21st street hill on south campus, i was able to make it up that without sliding at all that year that b-ham got over a foot of snow. I think the lock-right will work fine for you. as far as i'm concerned the tires are going to make almost as big of a difference though. i ran 35" bfg mud ta/km and they were awesome for snow

 

They want 850 for that kit? what a frigging joke!

What size tires are you running? 4 to 5 inches is about perfect for 36-40" inch tires

 

I just put a lockright in the rear along with my lift. Personally, i think its fine, not too bad on road if you drive smoothly, and its great off road.

Haven't driven it in snow yet. If you know someone with one in their truck, ask if you can drive it to get a feel for it first.

 

Are the wheel cutouts that much bigger on a truck vs 4runner?


Cause with the 4runner with 4" lift i would say lucky if i could even throw 35's under there. 33's are perfect for the 4", I think i need a little skinner rim though, since i think that might be the problem on when it tucks under a lot of rear flex, its a super tight fit into the rear wheel wells.

 

for 33's I would go with 2 inch lift MAX.......

If you do some research you'll find there are ways to lift it this much (without blocks and crap) spending HALF as much money....

Then you could buy a locker or bumper or something else useful.

 

Well, i went with new springs instead of coil spacers, if that counts for anything.

I think i might have gone the ball joint spacer route, but i didn't learn about that until i already bought the lift. And for $300 bucks the 4" lift with Lc coils was good, i think, for what i do with it. Plus i did get that locker too!

 

Aye, sorry I thought I was chatting with the OP..... Doh!