I just noticed a post for this on the 22re and I just did it for my 3.0. Since I started getting the 71 code. Ive got pics of everything and was wondering if anyone wanted a step by step write up it took me about 1 hour to remove it make the block offs and put em on and it took only a socket set, a dremel (or hacksaw if no dremel), some sheet metal, tin snips and some RTV gasket material. I have just the pics up now at http://www.angelfire.com/fl4/dmb
Let me know and I will write up the text shouldnt take long. I was hesitant about posting this cause it is illegal in most states but im in Fl and we have no emissions, plus it actually runs better now. Let me know.

 

Yeah definatley! Just got the 71 code on my 3.0 too! Would love to hear what you did!

 

I'm planning to do that to my 3.0 and would be very interested in a write-up.

 

To bypass the code 71 put a 10k resister in the EGR temp sender. It will trick the sender into thinking the egr is still working.

I would like to see a good picture by picture write up. Although I would prefer one that is not permanent since I need to smog my truck once a year.

 

Ditto on the non-permanant thing. Still needs testing now and then.

 

Jay351.... do you have a write up on the 10k resistor thing? or could you recommend a link or thread that shows it? I'm still pretty new to all this and would apprieciate the help! Thanks

 

wow that was fast. Im writing it upnow but if you go here http://www.angelfire.com/fl4/dmb you can see some of the pics the way i did it you cant put it back on cause I cut the pipe that goes into the intake to use the stock flange b/c i had a vacuum leak without it. anyway should be done tonight.

Also the 10 k resistor pushed into the harness will stop the code for the temp sensor but if the valve itself is broken that may not solve the problem and the truck will run rough

 

Milehifireguy look at the link I posted there is a pic of the resistor in the harness you can pick them up for $1 for 5 at radioshack

 

I see now! Thanks! I tried just blowing out the EGR modulator. We'll see if that works. Just trying to save a little $$ ya know?! Thanks again!

 

ok guys it is up in a rough form check it out and let me know what I can do to make it better here is the link again

http://www.angelfire.com/fl4/dmb

 

anyone look yet?
any feedback?

 

I have a question.
why thin sheet metal?

 

I dont think it makes a big difference but that is what ive heard from others before doing mine. I just think it looks better, and its cheaper and easier to work with, my snips wont cut anything much bigger than 1/16". You have to work with what you got

 

Nice job! Did the same thing, almost step by step, a several weeks ago. I put up step by step instructions along with pic's and got a lot of greta feedback....and some very negative hardcore tree-hugging feedback. Opinions are like a-holes...everyone's got one!
I tried sheet metal at first and founf out that it gave too much of a leak so, I used 1/4" aluminum and grinded down the edges to make a perfect match to the gasket. That allowed me to not have to cut anything in case I ever decided to go back to normal.
How do you like the difference?
My truck seems to idle and run more smoother but, haven't really seen better mpg's. Have you?

 

I will be doing this as soon as i pick up some tin.

Thanks for the great write up!

 

I havent had it off long enough to calculate my mpg's with any accuracy but it does seem to idle better but I think I am getting too much fuel at idle I can smell it coming from the exhaust(but maybe this is just the hydrocarbons?). I wonder if this has anything to do with the temp? From what I understand the recirculating exhaust gas helps keep engine temps down(because it is inert and resists combustion ie. nitrogen) maybe i just need to run it and let the ECM adapt(as much as it can) . But when I hit the gas it does respond a little quicker. Other than that no noticeable changes yet.