Hey everyone. So I've been toying around with my 91 PU with the 22re. Just recently, I disconnected my EGR valve (just disconnected the vacuum lines and capped them off), and switched over to some hotter plugs; just one heat range higher AC Delcos. Now the truck seems to randomly run hotter than it use to, and has a really rough idle with the ac off; the idle-up valve kicks in with the ac on and it idles perfectly smooth. It's not throwing the check engine light, so I haven't tried to read the computer yet. I'm believing the EGR valve disconnect is causing the hotter running temps, and I'd like to blame the plugs for the idle problem, but it runs fine otherwise... with the exception of my next sentence... Personally, I think the TPS and timing may be to blame for the rough idle, only because the power seems to come in "waves" or "steps" as I accelerate... that's kind of hard to explain, but basically, I can feel the power surging when on the throttle. I don't know if this is all coincidence, but I think my first step to fixing the problems would be to reverse what I've done so far and see what happens. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance!

 

Check your timing, My 91 4Runner 22RE calls for 5 degrees before top dead center, don't forget to short the proper connections in the diagnose box, located next to the fuse boxes in the engine bay. TE1 and E1 I think, double check though. Also check your idle speed, I set mine around 800rpm, that seems to work good. I would definitly not run Delco plugs (that could be part of your idle issue), I recommend either Denso or NGK, can't go wrong with them. As for your hotter temps, it's because you disconnected your EGR. Your EGR during crusing speeds routes exhaust back in to the intake manifold and then into the cylinders which actually helps to cool the cylinders down and helps reduce NOx/emissions. With out the EGR your engine will run hotter.

 

It should still run fine without the EGR system.

I second the ngk/denso plug recommendation. My experience, as well as a number of other people on this forums experiences (do a search) is that all other brands tend to cause idling issues.

If you think the tps is out of spec theres only one way to findout, and it doesn't involve posting on a forum to ask what other people think...

TPS Adjustment Info

If you're having running issues it might be worth just doing a full tuneup, and see where you're at

 

Ight, so I threw in some regular NGK 7632s tonight after work and hooked the EGR vacuum lines back up, and so far it seems to be a little better, but I'll have to wait till tomorrow to know for sure if it cured all and if she wont run warmer like it was. I believe I have a vacuum leak though. I can hear a little hiss while the motor's running from the "spider web" of hoses between the valve cover intake plenum, so I think that might be my idle problem. I picked up some started fluid and 5 feet of hose, so I know what I'm do'n tomorrow after work, lol. With 5 feet, I may just replace all the hoses so I know I won't have any more issues with vacuum leaks.

 

5 deg?????????? how did you guys get it so low im at about 40 adv i dont get it

 

its 5 with the electronic advance disabled, which is like 15ish with the electronic advance @idle..thats on the 22re btw

 

yeah im at 40 or so with EA on lol im at about i think it was like 28 or something like that with EA off

 

Well, as of right now, messing with the truck today is a no-go... I hate Florida this time of year; it's either pouring raining, or it's 120 degree, and if it's neither of the two, it's probably dark outside...

 

Just a 22RE:
You might want to post this as a new post but I had the same 22re timing problem until I changed the Throttle Position Sensor for a good used one.
Also be sure to jump the check connector when checking timing.

 

Maybe a tad off topic, but what is electronic advance, and how is it disabled? Should one disable to correctly set timing?

 

i'm having a similar issue looked at right now, power in waves like you said. they're telling me they got the egr working, tps is freed up (you pull it off and twist the little thing inside to make sure it springs back freely) and now they're saying it must be the electronic advance isnt working, so theyr'e gonna swap a used distributor in to see if it cures it. maybe you have a used distributor you can drop in to check? just tossin this info to ya in case it helps somehow. good luck.

 

Kyle...

The electronic advance just means the ECU. Jumping the terminals shorts/disables the sensor input circuits to the ECU and disables the ability for it to advance the timing accordingly. That's why it's called base timing and why the idle RPM should drop once the terminals are jumped. Once the jumper is removed, the RPM should rise again because input is restored and timing is advanced by sensor input demand. So, technically it should be shorted to correctly set the base, however if you understand that the ECU will (should, anyway) only advance by another 5-7deg's (= 10-12 btdc) then you could gauge by that. Eventually, when one has messed with this enough it can be done with a tach or even by ear....that is, if one knows the idle speed is set properly......750-800rpm on standard 22re's. Auto's and turbo's are a bit higher based on vacuum demand.

iamsuperbleeder...

The throttle angle circuit within the TPS COULD be related to the problem. I had a TPS issue a while back, but it tested fine for all static position tests. Then, I tested for throttle angle "sweep" and it failed. That is where you have the ohm meter connected to the VTA and E2 terminals, move the throttle plate slowly and evenly from closed to WOT while watching for a steady, incremental increase in resistance. If there is any faltering or dropouts in the readings you see, then that particular track has worn to point of sending erratic signals to the ECU input circuit. So, when accelerated, the timing and injector pulse is also erratic.....reflective of faltering TPS signals.

BTW, the VTA sweep test is covered in the link Alex posted, but as 4crawler points out in the article, it's NOT covered in the FSM.

 

thanks for the info Matthew. That will be used in about a week. Spoke to the engine shop and they will be redoing the bottom end and I will pick it up in a week. Yay!!!

 

Some good info I'm reading here. The problem has almost disappeared after pulling off and cleaning my intake manifold, but I have yet to check out and diagnose the TPS. I'm off tomorrow, so maybe I'll get outside and mess with it a bit with my new multimeter!