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94 Pickup Rotor Question

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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 07:32 AM
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From: Sheridan, AR
94 Pickup Rotor Question

I've been reading some of these forum, but I thought it may be quicker just to ask the question. I have a 94 4x4 pickup and I'm thinking of replacing the rotors. It has the factory manual hub and I need to know for sure if I have to removed the hub completely to replace the rotor, or will the rotor slide off of the hub after I remove the pads and caliper. I know there are other post regarding this, but I haven't seen one where someone just wanted to replace the rotor only. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 07:46 AM
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
Nope, they are a full-blown PITA. You have to remove the hub completely, and it won't hurt to have an impact wrench. PB Blaster the hell out of the bolts on the rear of the hub & let it sit for a while...

Check the '93 FSM sticky at the top of this forum.
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 07:51 AM
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yeah, and getting the rotors off the hub can be a pain in the butt if they're rusted enough. i was convinced they were all one unit until i bashed them hard enough.

i threaded the bolts back into the holes halfway and used a big punch and a really big hammer to beat on them. mangled the threads in one of the holes cause it didn't have enough bite when i threaded it in. i rested the rotor on the backside of one of my wheels which worked well.

soaking it in pb blaster for a few hours is probably a good idea, and if you have access to a press it'll probably be far easier if you can rig up some way to press through the bolt holes (IIRC).

good luck!
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 07:53 AM
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
Now will be a good time to replace bearings IF they are getting marginal.
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 08:02 AM
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Thanks for the help, although the answer was what I feared. Love my Toy, so I guess I'll dive into it soon.
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 09:05 AM
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From: CW ohio
so how do you get the rotor/hub assembly off the truck? looks like it requires some sort of puller.
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 10:17 AM
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no puller needed
pull off
wheel
caliper
hub
6 10mm bolts
6 10 mm studs
and then it should all fall apart
oh yeah and the axle nut
haynes or chiltons manuel helps a lot too
have fun
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 10:20 AM
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From: CW ohio
Yeah, not so easy. I've got the caliper off, the outer cover 12mm nuts off, but can't firure out how I got past the cone washers in the past. Its a 94 runner 3.0 auto hub BTW.
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 10:32 AM
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
Originally Posted by luxdlx
Yeah, not so easy. I've got the caliper off, the outer cover 12mm nuts off, but can't figure out how I got past the cone washers in the past. Its a 94 runner 3.0 auto hub BTW.
There are a couple of ways to get the cone washer out (I always grease the hell out of mine before I put them back in, that helps):

NOTE: LEAVE THE LITTLE NUTS ON ABOUT 3-4 TURNS or you'll be finding the washers for the next hour.

1. Using a WOODEN, RUBBER OR PLASTIC MALLET, or a hammer with 2x4 between it and the hub, beat the living hell out of the outer edge next to the washers.

2. Use a brass drift on the end of the bolts & tap with firmly with a hammer directly INTO the bolt.

One of these methods will almost always dislodge the cone washers.

Once you're inside, remove both locking nuts & assorted washers & the bearing. You're there.
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 10:38 AM
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From: CW ohio
I have beat the hub to mush. Im sure these have never been removed as there is no marks on the hub till I started beating it.

I'll keep trying.
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 10:48 AM
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
Hose it down with PB Blaster & let it sit for a spell...
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 11:28 AM
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sorry bud i thought they were manual hubs not auto
my bad
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 12:35 PM
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
same procedure.
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 03:57 PM
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From: CW ohio
sorry, accidental doblepost.

Last edited by luxdlx; Jan 17, 2008 at 03:59 PM.
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 03:58 PM
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From: CW ohio
WOOHOO!
Got one after F-in with it all day and buying a $30 2 1/8 socket. I used an old spark plug socket around the cone washers and a BFH.

Tomorrow I'll attack the other side which should go fairly quickly now that I know how. Uh oh, I just screwed the pooch there didn't I?

Oh well, learned a lot today, like I shoulda gotten a better degree so I could pay someone to do these bastards.

Thanks for the advice and thanks to the YotaTech gods for having all of this searchable info. Some of you guys have put alot of work into these write ups and its appreciated.
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 05:59 PM
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
Your '94 looks like mine. 3vze or 22re?
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 06:14 PM
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From: CW ohio
The 94 pickup is a 22re and the 94 Runner is a 3vze
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 06:37 PM
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From: Halifax, NS, Canada
you know, there is a real method for those cone washers - you're supposed to put a tapered punch into the gap and pound it in. it'll expand them and they pop right out. just soak them in pb blaster for a good while beforehand.
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 06:46 PM
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From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Am I the only one who didnt have any trouble with my cone washers? Light taps along the side of the hub with a brass hammer while pulling on the hub worked like a charm.
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Old Jan 19, 2008 | 01:26 PM
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From: marlbank, canada
i used to do the hammer thing, then i went to a fine tipped flat screwdriver inserted into the slot of the cone washer. a light tap with a hammer and they come right out, usually gripping the screwdriver blade.

a punch applied directly to the end of the studs will dislodge them as well. remember, a bit of antisieze and finesse will go a long way.

lee
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