Hey, guy's i found a local place that has 130-150amp alternator's for my 93 4runner with a v6. Will i have to do anything else before i mount this? Like will the stock electrical system just regulate itself, and keep itself from overcharging, or do i need a new voltage regulater? Thank's for your help.

 

An alternator only puts out the amps the electrical system needs, meaning that it will only put out the same as your current one is but will have the capacity to do more under a heavy load. You'll only need to start upgrading wires if you're running a bunch of heavy amp pulling accessories like a winch and offroad lights. Upgrading the "big 3" will make the charging system more efficient but isn't entirely necesarry.

 

"Upgrading the "big 3" will make the charging system more efficient but isn't entirely necesarry.:

I'm going to disagree with you on this one, ovrrdrive. I think every Yota on this forum would benefit from a big 3 upgrade, particularly those running H/D electrical systems w/upgraded alternators. If for no other reason than the older our trucks get, the worse the grounds tend to get from dirt, corrosion, etc. I think it's a worthwile upgrade. I have an upgraded (130 amp) alternator & I upgraded the alt-to-battery cable & will soon be doing the grounds as well.

 

Hmm...

To disagree with what I said would indicate that none of the trucks on this forum would be running without the upgrade which is not true. I said that the upgrade will make the system more efficient but is not necessary. Exactly what part of that is wrong?

You can say that you would recommend the upgrade to everyone, but I don't think I said anything incorrect in my statement. My truck is running fine with the stock gauge wires, but at the same time I'll admit I should upgrade them.

It's best to do it, but not necessary if the charging system is healthy.

 

I didn't say you were wrong, I said I was going to disagree with you. That said, no, it is not "necessary", but I think it is a cheap & worthwhile investment.

 

the big 3 is a must for an alternator that big, trust me. i learned this the hard way one night i was up on a mountain behind my house with everything on like lights and sterio. got to the top of the mountain then everything died. turned out that my stock wiring comming off the alternator literally burned in half, then it popped that 80a fuseable link. if you dont have any large draws you can get away with the stock wiring, but when you start needing more then you need to do the upgrade. its really cheap do to, just go buy some battery terminal wire from napa and you can do it yourself.

 

here is a dumb ? i guess about this. if you have say a 130 amp alternator...wouldn't you need to upgrade that fusible link to say.......130?

 

The fusible link isn't the charge wire. If your truck isn't blowing it now it wouldn't blow it with a higher output alternator in it. It's a popular misconception that putting in a bigger alternator will put more juice in the system but it won't. It has more capacity but odds are that it won't put out any more than the stocker does except for conditions where you have all of your high draw accessories turned on at the same time. Chances are that the really high draw ones are going to be hooked to the battery directly anyway, so not only is there not a need to upgrade the fusible link, there is not a need to upgrade the "big 3" either.

Like I said before, upgrading wires will make the system more capable and efficient, but is absolutely not necessary.

 

no. but you DO need to upgrade your wiring, the stock charge wire cant handle 130 amps safely, i know this from experience of melting mine in half. your alternator isnt putting out the full 130 amps all the time, just when you have a high draw on your system such as lights and a stereo. so if you dont have a large draw right now you can get away with stock wires but if you plan on having lights and/or a stereo that has a big draw your stock wires wont hold up.

 

Search for "Boyle Future Tech"

Several of us have had them upgrade our alternators with fantastic results. Since it's new guts inside the stock housing, it fits just like stock. Mine was so clean when I got it back, I thought it was new.

Mine was $118 including return shipping and does 60A at IDLE, 130A max.

Note that the rating at idle is WAY more important than the max output.

 

x2. I had them do mine also & am VERY happy with it. Plus it's the original Denso unit so you know it's gonna last forever. Just tell them you want it wound for maximum output at idle versus overall wide open max (which you'll NEVER use)...it's possible to get more total output at high rpms but incredibly impractical.

 

Thank's for the reply guy's.

 

Def upgrade your grounds from the block to teh body to teh frame. I use 4 gauge and 0 gauge. (overkill)
Also, i have a 4 gauge from my alternator to my battery... works great! (i have it inline with the stock wiring)

 

where would you get the "new guts" for the higher output alternators?

 

I had a Honda Del Sol Denso 90amp converted for my 22re, a little bigger size wise fit great, inexpensive and probably the best money I've put into the truck- little things like at idle the rear window is quick, the wipers aren't lazy- and the batt seems 'happier'.

 

Hmmm, in my opinion at least, you should size the wires and protection for the maximum output anticipated.

Sure, MOST of the time, the alternator won't be putting out more than the old one did, assuming the same loads. But didn't you buy it for peak output, peak load? Soon as you draw that, the undersized wires/protection will fail. Popping a fuse is one thing; melting wires is a safety issue.

Otherwise, why bother upgrading the 'water pump' if the 'pipes' are still too small?

 

sorry to resurect an old thread but what is the big three upgrade on the wiring and what toyota alternator would upgrade to higher amps withoutr rewiring the alternator?

 

Search YouTube for big 3 upgrade, there are plenty of examples.

 

Interesting things if one upgrades the alternator output it is the wire coming off the B terminal(alternator) that carries the load to the battery.Via the fuse block

Some bypass the fuse block and run unprotected to the battery but that is another chapter.

If that wire is left the original size plus being old and tired and your still running the stock circuit protection you are only going to limit yourself to the output of the stock alternator.

The system can only draw up to the old limit of protection till it opens.

Even though your Winch and other high current draws may be hooked up direct with their own protection the output of the alternator still goes through the battery to supply those devices.

If your high output alternator is just to keep up with the neighbors your good to go.

The big three is the upgrade to larger size and new cable.

All the major ground cables

The positive cable to the starter

I use 1/0 lengths of welding cable

The wire from the Alternator B terminal to the fuse block

This one from the factory is 8AWG because the bolted connection at the fuse block just the fact it is new makes a big difference.

On the 22R series engines the alternator being under the exhaust manifold and the thermal cycling well after a 100,000 miles that wire is pretty well burnt.

Doing this Big 3 upgrade is one of the first things I do.

 

I've always wondered, should we be striving for the big 3... or big 4?
Most believe 3 is more than adequate.