i've done some searching and found some info but i got a few extra q's i would like to clear up
my friend has a k5 blazer he just swapped a 3/4ton 14 FF rearend and is building up his front axle and is offering me his 12 bolt 1/2ton rear end and his full sized d44 together for ~300-350. I plan on doing a SAS probably next summer so im in no rush but i would like to gather as much info early and go from there, the D44 is 67.5 inches whereas my (and all other 86-95 ifs) front end is 59. So that would be about 4.25 extra inches added to the side. So a few questions, this isnt road legal in cali is it? however i think if i put mudflaps on the side (which i would want to buy or customize some quick release that i wouldnt have to keep on all the time) then i would be gold. The d44 has u joint problems? i guess what im tryin to ask, if this is so readily available are there any real reasons why i should just stick w/ the toyota axles? most sas kits that i would buy are designed w/ extra parts in mind for the toyota axle, is there a more cost efficient way to use the D44?
ps i dont wanna hear about the "why do a sas" or "its unnecessary" cuz this is beyond that, i wanna sas so dont convice me otherwise!
alright boys thanks for the help!

 

Check out sky manufacturing. They have full size stuff for Toyotas.

 

You'll have to relocate the leaf perches on the D44. I think there was a guy on Toyota Offroad that swapped a full length D44 under his rig and had nothing but good things to say. If I could get both axles for $300 - $350, I'd jump ALL over it!

 

Unless you use sky's kit, as mentioned above. That will give you all the hardware to hang the axle, no rewelding of the perches. Depending on the springs you buy, you may run into caster issues.

Full width is where its at. Definetly go for it at this price, spend some bones rebuilding it. As always, i recommend cromo.

 

look..im doing the same swap...but for a jeep....the difference its that my 44 its hp...... and ...all i can say its go for it...because of the deal you are getting....but if i had a yota and i didnt have such a deal..i will stay yota..makes sense?

 

thanks for the info everyone! keep it comin!
and that makes sense white_e thats what i was thinking, but wanted some more experienced advice
im finding alot more info thru toyotaoffroad.com i always forget about that site
and i found a couple other runners who went w/ the same swap
maybe ill contact them and see whats up

 

are you using the rear axle as well?......

i mean the same matching axle...i thinkg it s gm 12 bolt

 

Does the front axle you are getting have a passenger side diff?

 

since you quote me....i think you are asking about my swap...

no its a driver drop...why ?...well because its a jeep....lol


if you are talking about his swap...all chevys have ...i think...if not most chevys have passenger drop..

 

Opps, I meant to quote Kyle. Sorry.

 

its passenger, yea all chevy's are passenger
and the rear would be a chevy 12 bolt
but i would drop the front first after i build the kit then start on the rear, i wouldnt knock them out at the same time i doubt

 

if you ask me.....i know you are not..so im just giving you my 2 cents....

get both axles..build them how ever you want and swap both at once...once you get suspension and all togetther

 

ill def put them both on, its just a matter of how fast, i would like to atleast do the front during the summer when schools out, even tho my campus is walking distance...and i do walk, i can always get a ride to work in summer and if i have to walk it wont be raining. But im gonna pick them both up, but im focusing on getting rid of ifs, if i come across rear parts just as easily ill def, pick them up, but the kit for the rear is alot smaller than that for the front

 

well just get a dd like a 200$ ride by now...lol....

what do you mean the rear has less parts??...

 

just visually looking at the rear swap kit, and the front swap kit, there is alot more parts and work to be put into the front, as far as getting rid of IFS and putting on the SFA, the rear is easier to just mound the leaf shackles, still requires some fab but seems alot easier...i could be wrong.... and yea depending on how its going i might pick up on some dd, my friend who is working on his k5 has some piece nissan, maybe when he's done ill pick it up off him haha

 

so it turns out the axles i would be getting wouldnt be a dana 44 and 12bolt rear end, it would be the GM 10 bolts (front and rear) that came on everything after 76, is this a concern? it would still be fullsize but are they legit axles? or should i look for other axles? still $300-350

 

on top of this his 10 bolt front and rear end wouldnt need any work done, the brake lines and axle inners are all good, as well as his bearings and seals, they would pretty much be good to bolt right on (so to speak) but my main concern is if they would be able to run 35-37" tires

 

They will work.

Main concern would be gears. Most domestic builds have power to burn, so the gearing is a little higher than would be for a Toyota. You will want a ratio in the 5.something for that size tire given the engine your truck has.

 

i would be doing 5.29 (possibly 5.38) gears, i just dont have any knowledge of the actual axle (and its strenght)haha, thanks for all the help guys, time to do research out the rear, if all goes according to plan ill start getting parts by the end of the month, prepping axles in jan (even tho there is much to do as previous stated) but will def will start by next summer =D im excited!

 

If you are going to mix a Toyota axle and Dana 44 the highest ratio is 4.88 if you want to go to 5.29 stick with the Toyota axles all around.