Well, I'm an idiot for using a chiltons, but I am trying to change rotors on my 4runner, (stock non vented) and I am stuck. I have the hubs off but can not get the hub body off.

I pulled the c-clip and the hubs were switched to free-wheel.

it says something about cone washer or something, but doesn't show what it looks like.


Truck has been on jack stands for two days so any help would be much appreciated.

**downloading factory service manual now**

 

This should help you out. Very very helpful instructions.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...eRebuild.shtml

 

A cone washer looks like a cone(d'oh) and doesn't allow the hub to come off because of the pressure they apply. Tap the hub with a hammer(gently) around the studs and then tap the studs. Should break them loose enough to put a screwdriver in the crack that is in the studs and pull them off. Hope that helps a little bit.

Hayes

 

ok still no luck, this thing has so much rust it's nuts.. frame looks ok, but if I ever do a motor swap, i will probably consider a frame swap as well...

 

So a body swap...?

 

body, at this stage, seems salvagable, doesn't have the typical iowa rust, mainly needs new front fenders and replacement glass quarters, and probably some tlc to the inner sheetmetal, but the floorboards are good, the rear wheel liners seem to be fair.. but.. If I end up keeping it for the long haul the motor will need to be either rebuilt or replaced with something like a 4.3 liter

Iowa does not have any vehicle inspections so a mildly built 4.3L with an aftermarket Throttle body would probably be a pretty nice setup to have..

just enough power to motivate it well, without so much as to be breaking stuff left and right..

 

Like Hayes said.. use a hammer.. I remeber the 1st time I needed to take the hubs off and I didn't know that trick. It took me forever, until I called my brother who said "Use a hammer" I'd say use a rubber mallet 1st and if you have no luck, use a hammer and tap the hub above each cone washer. They will come loose. The first time I did it I had to hit the hub kind of hard... Good Luck!

 

Before you go whacking the crud out of your hub, here's how we do it in Nova Scotia, the Land of Rust. Put a nut on the studs and thread it so its even with the top of the stud. Using a brass dift on the end of the stud/nut, give it a few good whacks, it will pop. Do not whack the stud/nut directly or you'll FUBAR the threads. You'll know its popped when the line appears in the cone washer. When you reinstall the cone washers, antisieze ---everything---

 

got the passengers side front done, springs and new brake rotor and pads. and have new springs on the back. wheel cylinder blew up on the first test drive, slash moving the truck in the drive way so the cops don't flip me any crap. will post pics when its on 35s all the way around.